6.0.4 revisited

SEABEE08FX4 · Oct 17, 2013

TheReelMuhcoy said:
The 6.0 VGT solenoid is plugged in, just chillin' in the valley.

Is is functional ?

MorganY · Oct 17, 2013

TheReelMuhcoy said:
My boost reading is from a separate sensor for my boost gauge.

Okay.

Things I would check if you havent already:
-visually inspect for boost or drive leaks, from your intake elbow, to exhaust manifolds.
-check the turbine connection between both turbos
-check your custom vgt actuation in your high pressure, make sure it cycles
-check your fuel pressure . The regulator was hooked up correctly since you had to make your own lines, etc? I mean its hard to do it wrong, if it is, it would likely miss and idle like poo, but I have to ask.
-you're on the right track checking EBP, make sure you arent getting funky readings
-Check icp, ipr, pulsewidth and pedal position, if you need the ranges for APPS I can send them later. Make sure icp never stays at 870psi; that will cause issues
- check absolute map vs your external boost gauge to make sure they correlate
-make sure IATs and temp sensors are functional

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2

TheReelMuhcoy · Oct 17, 2013

OK, so I think I came across something that doesn't seem right from the datalog. The "MAP" and "BOOST" values are not jiving at all. Here is a screen shot of the chart and values from the Datalog.

ICP was peaking at 3500PSI at WOT, which I believe is within norm. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Also, I noticed today that I am starting to haze on normal acceleration, I think I may have another injector going bad on me.

MorganY · Oct 17, 2013

Where is the sending unit on the 'turbo boost' PID? It's max value of 31.91kPa is under 5psi....
Max absolute - atmosphere was 32.3 psi, which isn't bad. ICP is low for a stock injector/oil setup, what is ICP voltage, as that will give us a truer value. What is pulse width?

TheReelMuhcoy · Oct 17, 2013

I am not sure where that "boost" PID gets its reading from. It was an available PID on LiveLink, so I figured I would use that to as a comparison for MAP vs BOOST. I just loaded up Eric's Extreem Street tune which makes a HUGE difference in drive ability and power from the tune I was last running, however while driving the truck just shut down completely and didnt not want to restart right away. I had noticed when I first started the truck the "check gauges" light was on and the oil pressure gauge was pinned down. In any case, I check DTC's and I had a "IPR Valve Open" code, finally the truck started and drove like crap after that.

I had an issue when I first got the truck back from getting studs, it would semi-randomly shut off. I found a chaffed wire from the guys not routing the wires the way I had them (safely away from problem area's). Not sure if this caused the random shut off, but the struggle to restart and the IPR valve code are making me wonder. I will datalog the ICP voltage tomorrow with Eric's tune. I have the fuel pressure set to 65psi and it holds just fine.

MorganY · Oct 18, 2013

TheReelMuhcoy said:
I am not sure where that "boost" PID gets its reading from. It was an available PID on LiveLink, so I figured I would use that to as a comparison for MAP vs BOOST. I just loaded up Eric's Extreem Street tune which makes a HUGE difference in drive ability and power from the tune I was last running, however while driving the truck just shut down completely and didnt not want to restart right away. I had noticed when I first started the truck the "check gauges" light was on and the oil pressure gauge was pinned down. In any case, I check DTC's and I had a "IPR Valve Open" code, finally the truck started and drove like crap after that.

I had an issue when I first got the truck back from getting studs, it would semi-randomly shut off. I found a chaffed wire from the guys not routing the wires the way I had them (safely away from problem area's). Not sure if this caused the random shut off, but the struggle to restart and the IPR valve code are making me wonder. I will datalog the ICP voltage tomorrow with Eric's tune. I have the fuel pressure set to 65psi and it holds just fine.

MAP comes from the sensor near the A/C box, Manifold gauge pressure PID is a calculation from the PCM from the MAP PID. What is the actual IPR code? I don't remember the code I usually see for an IPR circuit issue. The IPR or PCM doesn't actually know what its physical position is. If the valve is stuck closed physically, the PCM doesn't know. Unlike the EGR valve...which can actually tell you where the physical position of the valve is. The oil cooler wasn't replaced was it...?

TheReelMuhcoy · Oct 18, 2013

Younger1993 said:
MAP comes from the sensor near the A/C box, Manifold gauge pressure PID is a calculation from the PCM from the MAP PID. What is the actual IPR code? I don't remember the code I usually see for an IPR circuit issue. The IPR or PCM doesn't actually know what its physical position is. If the valve is stuck closed physically, the PCM doesn't know. Unlike the EGR valve...which can actually tell you where the physical position of the valve is. The oil cooler wasn't replaced was it...?

Oil cooler was replaced, yes. The actual code that it is spitting out is P2623 "Injection Control Pressure Regulator Open"

Here is why I don't like letting other people work on my truck. I don't know if he made sure the connection was good, if he made sure the wires were CLEAR of the turbo's turbine housing, etc. I am going to take a look at the wiring in a little bit to see if it contacted the turbine housing and shorted it out.

Any idea's why just after loading my new tune from Eric, my CHECK GAUGES light came on and my oil pressure gauge is pinned down? something related to the IPR?

Mdub707 · Oct 18, 2013

I believe your ICP to be close to normal, pretty sure the 03 trucks maxed around 3600psi anyways, 04+ were 4000ish. I think to really resolve that you should be reading ICP desired and ICP actual.

Might not hurt to pull the IPR valve right now and check the screen on it... not uncommon for them to have screens blown out after having been in the motor for an HPOP replacement or possibly oil cooler replacement..

MorganY · Oct 18, 2013

Check the wiring on the IPR. The oil pressure gauge is a switch so to speak. Once LP oil hits 7psi, the needle goes to the middle, once it drops below 7psi, it goes to the bottom. The EOP sensor is probably damaged from the oil cooler repair. Reason I ask about the oil cooler is, if you don't clean the valley well enough before you pull the cooler debris will fall into the the oil cooler area and will eventually get sucked into the IPR blowing a hole through the IPR screen causing it to be stuck, and usually have a no start. Your code is electrical based, and since the PCM doesn't know the IPRs physical position, we cannot say the valve is stuck for sure. Open circuit..Take a look back there and follow the IPR wire to the engine harness and I am sure you will find something.

Tree'd by Mdub

TheReelMuhcoy · Oct 19, 2013

Truck ran flawless on a short trip today, until tonight when i pulled it in the driveway, took four tries to start. Here are some clips from today's runs with Eric's Extreme Street tune.
r
http://youtu.be/EwaDOLMIEVM

http://youtu.be/6-eGLqMH0Lo

205/100's COMING SOON BABY! :biggun:

MorganY · Oct 19, 2013

IPR sounds like the culprit. looks like it runs badass. 205's and that thing will rip

01PSD · Oct 20, 2013

Runs awesome!

Vader's Fury · Oct 22, 2013

Sounds good.

I just read this whole thing. Great thread and good for you going after this after others said it couldn't be done.

Stroker04 · Oct 22, 2013

Looks and sounds good! Great work!

06-sixoh · Oct 29, 2013

Defitnetly needs some more fueling. I am extremely happy for you getting it all together. Glad i cheerleaded for you all the way through. Hahah

Mdub707 · Oct 30, 2013

Any updates? Get the ICP issue figured out yet?

TheReelMuhcoy · Oct 31, 2013

No updates, as of yet. I have not had time to put into the truck between work and preparing for the baby. At this point I am considering purchasing a SCLB for a temporary ride and for my future building.

I just ordered the IPR socket yesterday so I will get on that ASAP.

A couple questions I have now that I am infuriated with my mechanic "friend". Since I got the truck back my coolant has been finding all kinds of ways out of the cooling system due to pressure. Enough pressure to bulge the side walls of the coolant reservoir that I built. What sort of pressure should generally be in the coolant system? I am very concerned because I have heard all of the horror stories about Ford OEM heads not being perfectly flat and needing to be machined prior to installation. The guy who did the install swore that they are true and flat from Ford and did not require milling. Now here I am with a bulging coolant tank and pissing coolant constantly......

Mdub707 · Nov 1, 2013

Well the caps are typically rated for 16psi, so it should be bleeding out after that. The easiest and quickest way to tell if the gaskets are still leaking, go out and run the truck and get it to full operating temp. Once you have it at temp, shut it off and bleed the pressure out of the coolant system by loosening the cap SLOWLY. Then reinstall and repeat. If you find pressure building up in there again, it's likely bad gaskets.

There is no way I would use even new Ford heads and NOT have them machined. Ford may deem them ok to use, because their spec sucks. So it very well may be "flat" according to Ford, but to us, no.

TheReelMuhcoy · Nov 1, 2013

:fustrate: :fustrate: :fustrate: :fustrate:

I am about 99.999% positive I've already done the pressure release and I built pressure again after the truck was warmed. It's a little hard to do this now not being able to keep the truck running at times, but I will try again.