Another pmr bites the dust..

907DAVE

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that would not be acceptable for me....

the block and heads would be taken to BARE metal, or it would not go together

and that's all I have to say about that.

You user name perfectly describes your position on head/ block prep....

On any of your graphite gasket motors you can almost get away with a bench grinder to surface the heads.....on a mls... no power tools should be allowed anywhere near it!

Ever read a Ford service manual, or do a set of gaskets on a 6ohh Outlaw?
 

bluedge8

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You user name perfectly describes your position on head/ block prep....

On any of your graphite gasket motors you can almost get away with a bench grinder to surface the heads.....on a mls... no power tools should be allowed anywhere near it!

Ever read a Ford service manual, or do a set of gaskets on a 6ohh Outlaw?

what does mls stand for?
 

907DAVE

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Yup, gotta make that thing shine! That's the only way it will seal.
 

TyCorr

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Ive never done anything more than scrape the surface very well. My 95 eclipse the first set I popped dad made me use emery cloth on it. That stuff, I rubbed and rubbed and it barely changed anything. The next set I scraped and they were fine to 30psi of boost.
 

lincolnlocker

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I've got a couple motors out back and the one I'm picking up for 500. Gfs dad has a junk yard with a obs 7.3 set off to the side for me. Lots of options..

Gonna start building a motor.. going billet tho...

sent while looking at a hole in my block

how bout check the compression on the motors that you get to pick from and start there.... then no need to take heads off and do studs one at a time if compression is good.

live life full throttle
 

StockCar#10

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What about a wire wheel , not the heavy wire, the thin light wire

sent while looking at a hole in my block

nope don't do it,... use sandpaper - emery cloth on a block, or a circular surfacing pad.

the wire wheel will deteriorate the edges of every machined surface.

Wire wheel works just fine, been building engines for years that way....
 

StockCar#10

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Buddies got a 01 with forged.

sent while looking at a hole in my block

I'm pretty sure the cranks are the same... That's why everyone says if you just swap rods to get the original crank ballanced again

sent while looking at a hole in my block
They are the same
how bout check the compression on the motors that you get to pick from and start there.... then no need to take heads off and do studs one at a time if compression is good.

live life full throttle

Thats a good start , op I would suggest that you pull the pan off the engine (s) you entend to use, if they are forged then great but imo rods arent gonna be your biggest problem,
You need to look at the main web casting rise, your previous 485hp build probably is showing signs of block flexing( main cap mating surface looks likes its been hammering against the engine block) . I know this becisue I cracked a block at a mear 430hp. Had over an 1/8" of main web rise. Cracks followed the webs from cap to cam journel('S)....
My suggestion to you is to find one with minimal rise and then have it deburred/ground down before anything.
I know a few years back swamps was having an issue finding engines to use for builds because if this problem. I was gonna build mine with them an they told me 1 in 3 7.3s they csme across was junk beause the casting rise......
Food for thought
 

Old OutLaw

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the factory surface of the block at the time the heads were laid on it was Clean, Dry, BARE metal.

the factory surface of the heads at the time they were laid on the block was Clean, Dry, BARE metal.

Suit yourselves boys, I really don't give a ****, I was just trying to help.

after 40 years of building, racing, and hot rodding truck engines, there's not much anybody can tell me about assembling engines .....been there, got the tee shirt.
 

StockCar#10

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the factory surface of the block at the time the heads were laid on it was Clean, Dry, BARE metal.

the factory surface of the heads at the time they were laid on the block was Clean, Dry, BARE metal.

Suit yourselves boys, I really don't give a ****, I was just trying to help.

after 40 years of building, racing, and hot rodding truck engines, there's not much anybody can tell me about assembling engines .....been there, got the tee shirt.

Not saying your wrong by any means, clean dry an bare is what everyones after. Theres just more than one way to skin a cat... brake clean wire wheel an rags is just about all you need for this application. The new engines that use mls gaskets need a little differnt touch but thats not the case here
 

littleredstroker

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They are the same


Thats a good start , op I would suggest that you pull the pan off the engine (s) you entend to use, if they are forged then great but imo rods arent gonna be your biggest problem,
You need to look at the main web casting rise, your previous 485hp build probably is showing signs of block flexing( main cap mating surface looks likes its been hammering against the engine block) . I know this becisue I cracked a block at a mear 430hp. Had over an 1/8" of main web rise. Cracks followed the webs from cap to cam journel('S)....
My suggestion to you is to find one with minimal rise and then have it deburred/ground down before anything.
I know a few years back swamps was having an issue finding engines to use for builds because if this problem. I was gonna build mine with them an they told me 1 in 3 7.3s they csme across was junk beause the casting rise......
Food for thought

Do you have a pic of this???

sent while looking at a hole in my block
 

907DAVE

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IMG_4367.jpg
 

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