Another pmr bites the dust..

907DAVE · Apr 25, 2013

He is talking about the casting lines that lead into the cam journal.

lincolnlocker · Apr 25, 2013

are those lines not supposed to be there or not quite that obvious?

DocBar · Apr 25, 2013

907DAVE said:
He is talking about the casting lines that lead into the cam journal.

What is that jagged little line that starts about 10 o'clock from the cam journal to about 12 o'clock? Or am I seeing things?

littleredstroker · Apr 25, 2013

DocBar said:
What is that jagged little line that starts about 10 o'clock from the cam journal to about 12 o'clock? Or am I seeing things?

This one ? Or is it dog hair lol
sent while looking at a hole in my block

907DAVE · Apr 25, 2013

Piece of lint from a shop rag or something...

4.0l sahara · Apr 25, 2013

So not all blocks have that casting line?

CurtisF · Apr 25, 2013

Old OutLaw said:
the factory surface of the block at the time the heads were laid on it was Clean, Dry, BARE metal.

the factory surface of the heads at the time they were laid on the block was Clean, Dry, BARE metal.

Suit yourselves boys, I really don't give a ****, I was just trying to help.

after 40 years of building, racing, and hot rodding truck engines, there's not much anybody can tell me about assembling engines .....been there, got the tee shirt.

I can.

It's true that when engines are originally assembled as new, it's bare metal.

Yet what you didn't mention is that if you use a power tool to try and get back to that bare metal, you are removing metal in the process.

These pieces are machined and inspected to a certain specification and measurement. If you introduce a tool that has the capability to remove metal, you now change those specifications and measurements. That's the other half of the equation.

So these heads and blocks when assembled were BOTH clean bare metal AND to a certain specification and measurement.

I'm not trying to give you hell. In fact, you might have enough experience and a steady hand to be able to get back to bare metal with such minimal impact on the original specs and measurements that you don't have issues. But not everyone has that talent.

lincolnlocker · Apr 25, 2013

CurtisF said:
I can.

It's true that when engines are originally assembled as new, it's bare metal.

Yet what you didn't mention is that if you use a power tool to try and get back to that bare metal, you are removing metal in the process.

These pieces are machined and inspected to a certain specification and measurement. If you introduce a tool that has the capability to remove metal, you now change those specifications and measurements. That's the other half of the equation.

So these heads and blocks when assembled were BOTH clean bare metal AND to a certain specification and measurement.

I'm not trying to give you hell. In fact, you might have enough experience and a steady hand to be able to get back to bare metal with such minimal impact on the original specs and measurements that you don't have issues. But not everyone has that talent.

that would be a bad mofo right there!! running a air tool in consistent fashion to compare to a mill... thats talent...

live life full throttle

StockCar#10 · Apr 25, 2013

lincolnlocker said:
are those lines not supposed to be there or not quite that obvious?

Correct . That one looks better than my block did.

littleredstroker said:
Do you have a pic of this???

sent while looking at a hole in my block

Trying to locate mine but with no luck

littleredstroker · May 25, 2013

Well picked up a motor, gonna pull the heads because he had the vc off in a shop and there's a bunch of oil/dirt " scuzzys" in the head..
Have studs, springs, TN turbo ,gonna replace valve seals while the heads out also.

Went to pick it up, said 500$ for the motor. 200k. Got there and he gave me all his parts also, hpop, turbo, pcm, idm, 2 fuel bowls, 4 injectors, all pre turbo intake boots, Ic pipes power steering pump , starter , alternator and lots more. I kicked him another 100$ cause I felt guilty, so he threw in his aluminum intercooler ( mines plastic ) . Think I got a pretty good deal.

Plan is to pull heads, and oil pan, fix leaky dipstick , and maybe have er together by mid June.
sent while looking at a hole in my block

7.3 Whitey · May 25, 2013

Going to disassemble the PMR and show carnage?

littleredstroker · May 25, 2013

Yes sir.

sent while looking at a hole in my block

7.3 Cowboy · May 27, 2013

Is going through that inspection hole the only way to check for pmrs?

johnholman · May 27, 2013

bluedge8 · May 27, 2013

you could pull the pan

7.3 Whitey · May 27, 2013

Not without pulling the motor. At that point a rebuild kit and new rods are the only way to go. O wish I could....

ghohouston · May 27, 2013

ONLY use ford grey silicone for the 7.3 to re seal your oil pan, if not, you will probably be pulling your motor again before long

littleredstroker · May 27, 2013

ghohouston said:
ONLY use ford grey silicone for the 7.3 to re seal your oil pan, if not, you will probably be pulling your motor again before long

Is the international silicone the same?

sent while looking at a hole in my block

David N · May 27, 2013

littleredstroker said:
Is the international silicone the same?

sent while looking at a hole in my block

Thats too much of a risk to find out the hard way. IMO

Binder man · May 27, 2013

littleredstroker said:
Is the international silicone the same?

sent while looking at a hole in my block

Yes International gray is all I use. Never even tried the ford stuff.

I've had a handful of E series ambulance motors. The last batch had 2 02's and a 03 along with a 01 and a 99. All of them had forged rods.