Best injectors for the street.

juniort444e

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I say get the 250/200. I have them and love em. Only need better tuning and forged rods to see what they are capable of. And i got a hell of a deal on them too.
 

Cloverleaffarm

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i'm in the process of buying the internal supporting mods before i get a set of hybrids myself. I'm stuck in the same boat as the OP. I regularly tow 10K+ with the truck/DD/ and pull often during the summer. i'm stuck between either 250/100 or 200's.
 

SouthFlstrokin'

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i'm in the process of buying the internal supporting mods before i get a set of hybrids myself. I'm stuck in the same boat as the OP. I regularly tow 10K+ with the truck/DD/ and pull often during the summer. i'm stuck between either 250/100 or 200's.

I'm only buying the sticks first because I have a nasty miss. And mine have 200k on them...
 

Cloverleaffarm

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just 200? i got a miss on 2 of them that i can tell, but theyve got 270K on them. i'll probalbly upgrade in early summer, and hope to be over 500hp
 

jwlandry

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How bout sell that adrenaline..... buy a real HPOP and go with 250/200s and call it done. Thats what i would do anyways.
 

jwlandry

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Depends on what you call too much i guess... They pump wouldnt be working its a$$ off to keep everything happy and oil would always be there even if it has a weak stock pump under it.
 

Gearhead

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We really need a nozzle between the 80 and 200 that isn't like the 100 where it has had too much extrude hone work.
 

SouthFlstrokin'

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How bout sell that adrenaline..... buy a real HPOP and go with 250/200s and call it done. Thats what i would do anyways.

I literally just installed the ad a month ago.... I guess I would be better off going with 250/200s. Will I need live tuning to keep them tuned down first as I grow into the supporting mods?
 

TARM

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OK so what I see here is most are stating the 200% nozzle is ideal until you reach its upper limit but there is no need to go any smaller EVER as tuning can make up for any short coming if there are any and it does everything compared to a smaller nozzle as well or better.

That to me means that no one with that view point should be recommending any injectors smaller period. No Stage I no Stage II no stock nozzle 30% 80% 100% nothing. It can not be both ways with absolutes. Even if they do not want to upgrade their supporting systems as they can just have that 200% tuned to lower flow to even stock levels or lower which means it can @ those lower levels handle the same HPOP and fuel needs etc.

My point is I want to properly frame what I see being communicated here.

It should not matter if they are never going to go larger or not if these 200% are what is being claimed because even at those lower levels you are getting lower EGTS etc so it still has to be better. The ONLY separation would be cost but if you are getting improved perf even at the much lower levels then.....


I think there is a difference between a certain specd part having no neg effects and having no effects that matter to a certain person.

I am not saying either way my position only making an observation of what is being communicated here.
 

Cat_rebel

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So I now I'm thinking about just running stage 1st to avoid all the extra mods needed....

To be honest a 160 or a 160/30 makes a nice daily driver injector without needing to go crazy. I'd have no problem running one in a daily driver or tow rig. I just wanted to make more then 350hp with mine so I went big. But for most people 350hp is plenty for a daily driver while still being very reliable.
 

Lowdown89

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My truck runs great with stage 1s and an adrenaline but after driving it for a few months I realize I want more power lol don't get me wrong if you just want a 400hp capable truck that runs great stage 1s are fine but if you are really wanting it to scream do the supporting mods as funds allow then step up to dome bigger injectors
 

Jason

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I was wanting to go bigger, power wise, but started weighing my realistic uses for the truck. I tow with it, long distances, and usually in the 20k-25k gross area. The stone cold reliability of the way the truck behaved stock injectors, and turbo was one of the most important things, but I wanted to be able to put a cummins in it's place as well if the need arose. Tryin to stay within my budget, and not get into swapping rods out, etc., I figure a 160cc with a slightly bigger nozzle, good hpop, and a 38r would do just that. It seems that everybody on this site now, says go with a 250/200 and some t4 mount turbo, when you factor in the mount, good rods if you need them, and everything else, you're ~$5k just in connecting rods, and a place for the turbo to sit, before injectors, oil, etc., and then youve got a truck that can't do what it's intended for..tow, without having I'll side effects. Throw a 40' enclosed gooseneck behind a truck with that setup, and try to roll 75mph across I-44 in Oklahoma or Missouri..and tell me that egt's or smoke aren't an issue when pulling those damn rolling hills.

A 350-400rw 7.3 truck, especially a much lighter 2wd truck would be plenty of "fun" for 90% of your average guys out there, IMO.
 

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