diy dual hpops

TyCorr

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Well, I been lurking over here for a little while. I don't quite understand your question/comment on the two mounting bolts being an issue. Those bolts are custom ordered and are a 12.9 grade 8mm bolt. Very strong. Yes, timing cover threads have known to strip out. A couple reasons: removing and reinstalling pumps/or a pump, over and over and over again and again... Over torquing the mounting bolts. Cross threading the mounting bolts. Using Loc-Tite on the mounting bolts. But pump weight has no bearing on the bolts. You see that thick aluminum snout on the front of the pump body(1 1/2 inch thick). That's a static fit design. There are hundreds of inline duals out there, with well over 150k on the system.

If anyone is really worried, hit up fasten all for some thread inserts. I think Riffraff Diesel sells the kit as well. Personally, I don't repair threads unless they are damaged, but that's just me apparently.

As for the Stealth issues: I have seen a few. A broken spring can cause damage, as said above. Once steel gets between the brass revolver, it will only take seconds to damage the smooth surface. Once it's no longer smooth, you will lose pump efficiency. Most of the damaged pumps are actually much worse then "a broken spring". It's usually several springs. I won't go into the reasons why they are breaking.

As for a Billet body, that won't make it any more reliable. There's plenty of room in there and if the body was the issue, we would see cracked/broken body's. We're not.

Fact of the matter is, dual pumps are and always will be king(what ever brand you choose, as I really don't care). The amount of volume is crazy and gives you throttle response that no single will touch.

Also, if guys choose a 238/???, any decent single pump will supply those well. If the 17 won't, then have it rebuilt to: which ever company you choose.

I understand that. My truck wouldnt be on pavement only. The bouncing and the increased leverage of having another pump hanging off those two bolts threaded into an aluminum cover doesnt work for me.

That's it. Im sure there are many that are fine. For my use I dont trust it.
 

B.A.D Performance

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I dont understand the just two bolts holding the dual pumps in place argument. The bolts don't hold the weight of the unit. The front snout of the hpop does the bolts just hold it in place.
works just like a hub centric wheel. The lug nuts just hold it in place but do not support the weight
 

psduser1

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Except a wheels mass is fairly centered above the bearings, and the pumps hang way off the back of the snout, effectively increasing the leverage on the boltthreads, lol.
 

m j

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manual transmissions use the same mounting idea at the bellhousing. 4 bolts pull the bearing retainer in to the index of the bellhousing.
IIRC a class 8 truck hangs the entire 18 speed off the back with no other support as the bellhousing has the side mounts and the third mount of the tripod is under the harmonic balancer

proven strong.
the front cover strength concern is valid, is there any data to show it fails?

so far this thread has not too much DIY info.
the BTS/Gen3 style looks easy to do.
for the BTS you just have to move the swash 180° out to make it work rev rotation

how are the two shafts coupled in an inline dual? is the front pump shaft EDM'd to accept a spline or is it simplier then that?
 

TARM

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You can go back on PSN before PSA and see numerous posts of people stripping out the threaded holes in the front cover on inline duals. The issue was getting the mounting just right and tq them down in small steps between each bolt to get a good even seal.

When people stripped them out it was not the end of the world as they put inserts to allow for secure bolting. I honestly do not think its major deal for those that operate on the pavement. For me personally I hit very rough logging and forest roads. A 9k lb rig bouncing around can be a bit rough at times. Its not that I can say for sure it would or would not be an issue but when their is a choice between units that offer the same amount of flow at basically the same and in some cases lower price why would I risk it in the first place.

Again for 99% of people the current dual inline hpop are not an issue as far as I know other than its still possible to strip out those holes if you are not careful. But again that can be easily addressed. The real issues with leaking were when the HPOPs were not sealed well to the manifold in between them. In the old kits those two long bolts not only sealed the front unit to the front cover but also held the units and manifold together. Now say with Joey@ Terminators they are all sealed together when the customer gets them and have been for years. I am sure their is plenty of info out there from Joey on that.

Really other than some old Stealth dual kits the only inlines are from Joey@ Terminator that I am aware of so from a commercial standpoint that is the only units we are talking about I would guess. Basically BTS and Gen 3 Type setups with the off set pump mounted to the billet HPOP Res piece versus the Terminator with its inline HPOPs mounted to the stock location using extended bolts.

Again this is not some proven issue just one that could be a concern for someone that has their truck bouncing all over the place.

For me personally my ideal setup is dual pumps dual remote IPR dumping to the front cover 4 port feeds one to the corner of each HPOP rail. Extra HPOP Res feed line from the block Melling LPOP. If feeding a monster HPOP setup was ever an issue then I would say having a hydraulic pump acting as a oil pump that is connected via the HPOP gear thru the access port in the front cover. I know of one that was made. That would ensure all the LPOP volume one could ever need with a reg keeping peak pressure at no higher than 75 psi.
 

Mr.BigOil

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I dont understand the just two bolts holding the dual pumps in place argument. The bolts don't hold the weight of the unit. The front snout of the hpop does the bolts just hold it in place.
works just like a hub centric wheel. The lug nuts just hold it in place but do not support the weight
You are correct.

For the record: Wide Open ran inline pumps on the Rail and the Lightening, way back when. Never had any timing cover issues.

David Lott ran them as well, and Snow White might still have a set....not sure.

Dennis at Strictly Diesel runs a set.

Those pumps have been available since 2005, and are still being sold.

I will also add that every set above ran/or run's two oil lines and a single IPR.

The 4 oil lines and dual IPRs have been talked about for years......:fustrate:

On edit: TARM, I would never rob oil from the oil galley to supply oil to the reservoir. I would also avoid the Melling LPOP. Testing the Melling vs a new OEM pump, the OEM supplied slightly more volume to the reservoir(97 full built WOP engine with 300cc B codes, twin turbo, twin pumps, etc). If you compare the gear rotors between the two, you will see why.
 
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TyCorr

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You are correct.

For the record: Wide Open ran inline pumps on the Rail and the Lightening, way back when. Never had any timing cover issues.

David Lott ran them as well, and Snow White might still have a set....not sure.

Dennis at Strictly Diesel runs a set.

Those pumps have been available since 2005, and are still being sold.

I will also add that every set above ran/or run's two oil lines and a single IPR.

The 4 oil lines and dual IPRs have been talked about for years......:fustrate:

On edit: TARM, I would never rob oil from the oil galley to supply oil to the reservoir. I would also avoid the Melling LPOP. Testing the Melling vs a new OEM pump, the OEM supplied slightly more volume to the reservoir(97 full built WOP engine with 300cc B codes, twin turbo, twin pumps, etc). If you compare the gear rotors between the two, you will see why.

That doesnt explain the pressure increase when removing a stocker and putting a melling in.
 

old man dave

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That doesnt explain the pressure increase when removing a stocker and putting a melling in.

Pressure does not equate to total flow capability, that's the rub. A LPOP may develop higher pressure than a stocker but not flow as much oil in a higher demand situation. A long time ago there was the same issues over using a high pressure oil pump versus a high flow pump in gassers and that was back in the sixties.

Working with FE engines with reworked oil systems increased total flow demand and my speed shop at that time always used a high flow pump, the high pressure pumps would not supply enough oil volume at higher rpms.
 
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TARM

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No one is bashing your HPOP setup Joey. No need to get defensive and throwing out big names as some type of proof of I am not sure what.

Seriously, listing one setup that have run dual hpops whether they have a big name like WOP or not as proof that the stripping the threads out of the timing cover ( NO ONE SAID THE BOLTS WERE NOT STRONG ENOUGH BTW) is akin to showing a a couple life time smokers that do not get lung cancer as proof that smoking tobacco does not cause lung cancer. FACT absolute 100% fact numerous people have stripped out the cover threads installing dual hpops even those that were the very first time. We can go on over and pull them up with a search on PSN TDS etc. Further if you look at what I stated you will clearly see I stated it was from the TQ procedure and mostly a issue of the past.

I also was very clear on the only reason I felt there COULD be an issue and it was VERY SPECIFIC to a certain use of that vehicle. Yet it rather interesting that you almost never hear of someone doing that ( stripping the threads) installing single pump after single pump unless they were taking the on and off many many times over the years. Just saying.

Again, I clearly state the main reasons for this was the older designs where you were having to use those two bolts clamping force to keep all the parts together (both hpops and manifold or whatever the tech name for that piece is). That your units and for customer purposed perm bonded together.

Its a bit irritating when I take the time to try and not rustle peoples feathers, go out of my way to be very clear about things being issues of the past and the only minor thing I have an issue with is for a situation 99% of people out there will use yet someone has to come on and act as if their product was insulted when it fact most everything positive was said about it.

I mentioned as many have about dual IPR remote setups etc for the Gen 3 but you do not see Dave running on here listing big names as proof. Why is it unless your product is only seen as perfect you feel the need to be defensive. WHy can't you just be happy being the only producer of inline HPOPs that run well and has a excellent rep for CS and standing behind his product? Seriously is that not enough?


Pulling oil from the galley, I am sorry but its all the same oil from the same pump. Its not as if the oil is going to atmosphere its still a closed system. No matter what its got to get to the res somehow. As long as pressure in the block locations stays with spec you can choose to do what ever you want but do not insulate its hurting anything unless you have proof.

I thought you ran compounds at some point or still Joey where would be be getting that extra oil from for the other turbo? Not the BLOCK!?!

Melling less volume that the OEM (NEW)??, sorry if I do not take your word on this as I have also done that exact same thing and got the opposite results on a relatives truck both new as I bought a Melling not knowing he had gone to Ford. We put the new Ford one on another of the companies trucks instead of his personal one which we pulled it off of after month when we replaced his water pump. Not saying I could not be wrong I could be for sure or that we could both get different results But I would need to know the exact specs of all that went on as there are many variables in these setups and especially if you are just looking at pressure.

Further I did a fairly low milegae swap out on m X a couple years ago and I saw my pressure go up a good bit in the res with duals switching from stock to Melling @ under 80K on my X. I can not give the exact mileage as I do not recall so I am fudging it more as it was likley is the very low 70s. I now have another 30K on it and the pressure is still just as high so its not something that seems to wear quickly. Maybe at 150-200K range sure.

These are gerotor designs. You have the inner gear lobes in the tight tolerances for seal with the outer while they rotate and the oil volume is that which is between the lobes in the volume of open space. These are fix displacement pumps so for each rev a certain volume comes out.. If you want to take a look at a paper detailing georotor pump design and modeling I think you will see a statement such as quick glance will show why the stock pump is higher volume is not quite right. Especially if you applied basic logic the melling would again seem to move more volume when you take basic design into account. Look at the volume difference between the two pumps i.e. the free space volume where fluid goes. Measure it and see which one holds more.

Take read on this paper which lays on the basics on georotor modeling and comparisions: http://www.academia.edu/3132721/Modeling_and_simulation_of_gerotor_gearing_in_lubricating_oil_pumps

As inlets and outlets are fixed as are center lines as its the same location and engine it comes down to the volume and lobe angles min and max chamber volumes etc.. its quite a bit. Read the paper and you will see its anything but simple

Looking at just free volume here is a comparative photo where it is abundantly clear there more volume if that is the sole determining factor in the Melling but what one would consider with a look at had a basic mechanical understanding

P1010137_zpsf5309eca.jpg


7b6867e7-2697-4dd7-bbcf-9d7c9c58d8bc_zpsc8a774ac.png


It would also seem clear with its design there is less shearing and aeration. But if you do not believe me go do just as I have done and I think Dave @ Swamps has done the exact same thing as I am sure others have. Go fill each up with oil and see which one holds more volume..

Here is a clear animation that shows how the pump fuctions and the effects of the volume area of the pump:

Gerotor_Animation_zpsf04d42da.gif



You know what I think would be interesting and who would likely know and have done the most testing. Bob@ dieselsite. I would have to believe he not only tested the stock but for sure the Melling during his design and testing of his high volume LPOP. After all it would be an embarrassment to produce a pump that a off the shelve pump that is less than 1/16the cost of his pump could outperform it. You know damn well he made sure it could. I think it would also be interesting to see the lobe sets of his pump. I for one have never seen the gear side of his pump. Only the pic of the outside on his site and what others posted.

But at the most basic sense of these pumps look at the total volume for a given diameter of the circle and compare. I think you will find the Melling has more volume.

I sure have yet to here of a single person seeing a volume drop when they installed a Melling. But you are correct as I am sure you would point out these are almost always cases where the stock pump has seen many hours of use


Edit to add: these pumps are not effected by pressure on the outlet side until it gets into the 1000's of psi unless of course they have heavy wear. Thus in terms of outlet pressure at the pump all things being the same( that part is key) pressure would indicate volume in this case. I do very much understand your point though Old Dave. We also see it with high pressure fuel pumps. But these are a different design and that plays into greatly.. Just as you would use a gear pump for high pressure such as hydraulics for power steering and not used a georotor as you would loss seal and effects on volume with the pressure limits of them. If I miss understoof your post or am off on what you were describing I appologize
 
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DocBar

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No one is bashing your HPOP setup Joey. No need to get defensive and throwing out big names as some type of proof of I am not sure what.

You know what I think would be interesting and who would likely know and have done the most testing. Bob@ dieselsite. I would have to believe he not only tested the stock but for sure the Melling during his design and testing of his high volume LPOP. After all it would be an embarrassment to produce a pump that a off the shelve pump that is less than 1/16the cost of his pump could outperform it. You know damn well he made sure it could. I think it would also be interesting to see the lobe sets of his pump. I for one have never seen the gear side of his pump. Only the pic of the outside on his site and what others posted.
But at the most basic sense of these pumps look at the total volume for a given diameter of the circle and compare. I think you will find the Melling has more volume.


I sure have yet to here of a single person seeing a volume drop when they installed a Melling. But you are correct as I am sure you would point out these are almost always cases where the stock pump has seen many hours of use


Edit to add: these pumps are not effected by pressure on the outlet side until it gets into the 1000's of psi unless of course they have heavy wear. Thus in terms of outlet pressure at the pump all things being the same( that part is key) pressure would indicate volume in this case. I do very much understand your point though Old Dave. We also see it with high pressure fuel pumps. But these are a different design and that plays into greatly.. Just as you would use a gear pump for high pressure such as hydraulics for power steering and not used a georotor as you would loss seal and effects on volume with the pressure limits of them. If I miss understood your post or am off on what you were describing I apologize
Doing a comparative test between OEM and any aftermarket pump should be pretty simple and straightforward. I would be very surprised if someone offering an aftermarket LPOP didn't have definitive data on the pressure and volume of both theirs and the OEM.

I'm interested in the oil galley comment from Joey. What are your concerns there, Joey?
 

TyCorr

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I also didnt get any feeling anyone bashed the termies. I want them but am not sure about the front cover strength as my truck will be on the road 60-75% of the time. It seems like bouncing would turn that line of pumps into a lever.
 

V-Ref

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After reading all this I'd have to recommend an overdrive spinning two SRP1s mounted as Terminator duals being feed by a Gen3 Haldex pump.

Did someone say something about oil shear?
 

DocBar

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After reading all this I'd have to recommend an overdrive spinning two SRP1s mounted as Terminator duals being feed by a Gen3 Haldex pump.

Did someone say something about oil shear?
LOL
Those northern lights are getting to you!!! You might need to go IFR for a bit. :thumbup:
 

Mr.BigOil

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Doing a comparative test between OEM and any aftermarket pump should be pretty simple and straightforward. I would be very surprised if someone offering an aftermarket LPOP didn't have definitive data on the pressure and volume of both theirs and the OEM.

I'm interested in the oil galley comment from Joey. What are your concerns there, Joey?
Doc, it was very simple. New engine, new injectors(300 cc B codes), new Melling pump, new everything. About 3 years ago(this November will be three years), Jody from DP Tuner was here LIVE tuning, 7 years straight now. Loaded a 60 tune and took it down the road. Made about 60 lbs of boost, and the low pressure gauge dropped all the way down to nothing(below 6psi reservoir pressure does that). OK, no big deal. When I get time, I'll mess with it. Fast forward approximately 12 months. Before Jody came back, I removed the Melling and installed the new OEM pump that came with the Ford Rebuild kit. Didn't change anything else....not even tuning. Did a test run with Jody, and the gauge never moved. Upon further inspection, we all figured out why(there were several guys here for LIVE tuning in the shop, can't remember all the faces/names). The why: pull the gear rotor out of the body and measure the thickness of the Melling. Then measure the OEM pump. Btw, I pointed this out to Cale@Tyrant Diesel as well. It seems they were experiencing similar issues with low pressure oil, if memory serves, it's been a few years now.

I thought about designing a low pressure pump as well, after comparing the two. It would be easy, but I feel there is not enough demand. And since the OEM pump keeps up now, why bother. That's the short of it. No machine test involved. Just a real 7.3.

My concerns on the galley: your pulling oil too close to the mains. If you want to try it, go for it. If I were you, I would gauge pressure at the lower galley before and after the line is installed. Besides that, there's not a lot of volume down there(small fitting).

As for the turbo feed comment earlier: my primary turbo is getting oil from the same location as the secondary. Small oil lines, that don't take a lot of volume. The turbo doesn't need a ton of volume, or pressure.

TARM, I took nothing you said as bashing. I just came to point out simple facts. There are hundreds of inline pumps running around. Heck, there are 4 sets just on my 7.3's. The wife's Excursion is one of my best test mules. Bought that thing with 99k. Installed pumps, and now it surpassed 234k. One of those pumps is the original HPOP. The second was an unknown core. I don't buy new for my vehicles. :eek:
Also, I only used WOP and couple others for easy examples, as most people now of them. I could list a couple hundred customer names, but some may not approve. I miss WOP.....those guys sold a ton of pumps.

Ok, I think I'm done guys. As ol Wackerjr use to say: "pick your pony and ride it, it's all good."
 
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TARM

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Yeh it was called P-Pump LOL

I would not be suprised if early on they did the IH res gear pump deal people use to do DIY when you could get the parts. I do not recall them advertising anything but others would likely know far more.
 

DocBar

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Yeh it was called P-Pump LOL

I would not be suprised if early on they did the IH res gear pump deal people use to do DIY when you could get the parts. I do not recall them advertising anything but others would likely know far more.
Talk about a pricey upgrade!!:gun:
 

TARM

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Yes but to be honest if one could afford a P-pump setup right you could have a very dependable running setup that could turn the RPMS as well without all the electronic stuff we seem to constantly be chasing our tails to fine when this or that sensor goes bad that wire shorts bad ground you name it. Sure you do not get the very flat power curves you can get thru the RPM range but still. Issue is who is going to drop 50K-75K.
 

TyCorr

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Yes but to be honest if one could afford a P-pump setup right you could have a very dependable running setup that could turn the RPMS as well without all the electronic stuff we seem to constantly be chasing our tails to fine when this or that sensor goes bad that wire shorts bad ground you name it. Sure you do not get the very flat power curves you can get thru the RPM range but still. Issue is who is going to drop 50K-75K.

Theres another readily available motor with a bosch p7100 pump already on it for faaaaar less. I mean how long are people supposed to ride around in these turds when the electrical gremlins take hold? Spitting out cps every two months? I already know some people who are there. One has a brand new engine. Im not sure about everywhere else but the corrosives they put on the roads are doing ridiculous things to part that shouldnt be of worry. Not integral to motor operation but my fan harness rusted out internally. I went to take it apart and the resistor had rusted and welded the whole mess together. I got it apart but it cracked the harness. :doh:
 

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