73mm Atmo turbo install, cab on
i hadn't updated this in a while but i am pleased to be working with James @ Barder Turbo and testing his new 73mm drop in atmo charger! This unit has an aggressive billet wheel and 360* thrust bearing on it.
The bearing on my 71mm gave out so i thought i would give this a try. Shortly after i got it installed, i had coolant getting into the crankcase so the truck has been parked for a bit.
the time i did get to drive it was awesome tho! LOL spool up is only a hair slower than stock but i noticed lower back pressure than with my other turbo. it pulls real strong (the trans slipped the first time i rolled into it so i kno its making more power than before). Cleans up pretty much all the fuel that i have with Matt's race tune-barely a haze comes out of the pipe. i was having too much fun to do a mileage test but that will come-alone with some dyno time.
Best part about the whole deal is getting to work with James, stand up guy, always answers his phone, fast turnaround time and always a pleasure to speak to.
Here are some pics of the cab-on install.....put it this way, my forearms and hands hurt.
First pic...the absence of a topside creeper........forklift and plywood FTW!
The other pics are showing what all has to be removed for a cab-on install as well as what the new turbo looks like tucked in there.
For anyone that is wants to attempt a cap on atmo turbo swap, here is the process:
Disconnect both ground clamps from the batteries, remove air intake, remove the heat shield that covers the turbos, remove oil feed to turbos, unbolt vgt actuator from turbo housing, remove black fuel cooler bracket from over top of drivers side valve cover, (with it will come the u-bend boost tube) undo the two fuel line banjo bolts that go to the top of the fuel cooler, swing the whole shootin match overtop of the drivers battery. using a 3/8" swivel head ratchet, undo the six bolts that hold the uppipes to the exhaust housing. (if you have 6.0 manifolds it is easier to just unbolt the upipes from the manifold via the inner fender, i learned this in retrospect) Now take out the two big bolts down between the lp & hp charger that hold the turbos to the engine. now that everything is out of the way, i used a prybar from each side between the exhaust housing and the rocker box DO NOT PUT TOO MUCH FORCE ON ANYTHING it is strictly to "rock" the turbos slightly to get them elevated off the alignment dowels which are tapered. once the pair of turbos comes up slightly you will be able tip them to the drivers side slightly and the atmo charger will lift up and out on an angle towards the passenger side. Tada!!
the hardest part of the whole job is the uppipe bolts. This took me from dawn to dusk but now that i have done it once, the next time will be much easier.
oke: lol
