Mishimoto OBS Radiator Sale $289!

Got4wd

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I'm intersted in doing the horton fan clutch when I find one for a good deal. I'm just curious if you guys think the aluminum pump is going to hold up to the clutch cycling on and off? It won't effect me since I have the IH filter pump, but I have a work truck that uses the same horton on the 7.3 engine and when it locks, it moves some serious air. I'm sure the stress is going to tear up a aluminum pump I would think?
 

Swaan

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Well I put mine to the test. I put the engine at 3500 rpm and manually engaged the fan to put the whole system thru a bit of a torture test. I did that about 20 times. If some thing was going to grenade I wanted to do it in my driveway not out on the hwy.

It's working perfect. No abnormal wear so far.

Your international work truck your talking about probley has a bigger fan, but reguardless the stock obs fan moves lots air also at 3000 rpm.
Mini tornado under the hood. Lol
 

FrankTheTank

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So now that I'm upgrading my Trans lines.. what did evey one use for the bottom driver trans line bungodly fitting. Looks like 3/8np. Bought a 3/8npt to 3/8 hose barb and it is slightly and I mean SLIGHTLY larger then the bung. WTF?
 

JSchuricht

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Mishimoto is a joke of a company. I ordered 6/22, website said in stock. Found out that they don't actually have stock and it will be back ordered till 9/2 meanwhile the website says in stock the entire time. 9/2 passes and I call them only to be told that due to the holiday it's been pushed back to 9/16. I called them again today to find out why I don't have a tracking number. Turns out they are back in stock but won't be shipping for a few more days and they wouldn't give me a hard date, just sometime in the next few days. :cursing:

If you value customer service stay away as these clowns obviously don't care about their customers or delivering products.
 

FrankTheTank

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20140918_185838_zpswsaxe6my.jpg

Welded bungs on all 3
 

Obsledpuller

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Mishimoto is a joke of a company. I ordered 6/22, website said in stock. Found out that they don't actually have stock and it will be back ordered till 9/2 meanwhile the website says in stock the entire time. 9/2 passes and I call them only to be told that due to the holiday it's been pushed back to 9/16. I called them again today to find out why I don't have a tracking number. Turns out they are back in stock but won't be shipping for a few more days and they wouldn't give me a hard date, just sometime in the next few days. :cursing:

If you value customer service stay away as these clowns obviously don't care about their customers or delivering products.

Same here only they sent me a tracking number today. I ordered back in May.
 

rusty1161

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I'm not sure on the sensor.

I went to my local auto salvage yard and went to the ford section. I found a couple ford Taurus cars. I robbed the 4 wire pigtail and sensor off the a/c compressor. I think the fiesta and a few other fords use same switch. The cars use that switch to activate the electric fans when head presure in a/c system gets to high. It also acts as a cutout if it gets really high.
So all you do on our trucks is un screw the stock sensor and screw on the other one. Wire it in and your good.

The guy at salvage yard charged me $10 for the pigtail and sensor. Works good!!

Swaan,

I have the switch and connector. Since it is just a switch, does it really matter how I wire it in as long as it is two adjacent wires on the harness? Does that make sense?

Thank you.

Rusty
 

rusty1161

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I think I understand the wiring now. There are four wires to the switch. Two will have continuity when tested with a DVOM, and those go to the truck's original harness, and will open the circuit with too much pressure, thereby disengaging the A/C compressor. The other two are NO, or normally open,and will close with too much pressure and complete the circuit for the fan clutch.

Am I close?

Thanks.

Rusty
 

Swaan

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I think I understand the wiring now. There are four wires to the switch. Two will have continuity when tested with a DVOM, and those go to the truck's original harness, and will open the circuit with too much pressure, thereby disengaging the A/C compressor. The other two are NO, or normally open,and will close with too much pressure and complete the circuit for the fan clutch.

Am I close?

Thanks.

Rusty

You gotter big fella. !
 

rusty1161

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Well, I installed my fan clutch today.

The temperature switch was installed a couple of days ago in the passenger side head, right next to the dipstick tube. That only took 20 minute or so and I lost maybe half a quart of coolant when I did it, I just swapped the plug and sensor really quick.

The fan clutch install only took me 2 hours or so, and that included modifying the bracket for the anti-rotation strap, just like that thread from the ORG. I just flattened mine and drilled a new hole, and used a vacuum pump bolt to secure it. This creates two issues to look out for and I will be looking for a new mounting point when I do my water pump in the near future. I needed to get this thing roadworthy ASAP since it's my daily driver. First, this required pulling the vacuum pump pulley to use the bolt. Not a big deal in my driveway. Second, this location puts the strap inside of the serpentine belt and will require the fan clutch or anti-rotation strap to be removed to change the belt. That is an issue on the side of the road.

I hooked up the harness and broke in the fan clutch per the instructions. I don't have the A/C switch or manual override installed yet, just waiting on some parts, but I should be okay for a few days. I will say, when that thing engages, even at idle, you know it. I used my original metal fan, good thing I didn't scrap it. I have a 6.0 fan for sale if anyone in Socal is looking for one.

Thanks for all of the tips! I will keep this updated as time goes by.

Rusty
 
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rusty1161

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Looking at it again, you can remove one bolt, holding the anti-rotation strap to the steel bracket that is bolted to the vacuum pump to change the belt. Still a bit of a pain.

Rusty.
 
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