Mishimoto OBS Radiator Sale $289!

rusty1161 · Aug 16, 2014

The barb for the hose going to the overflow is 3/8", so you're good there with the 1/8" pipe X 3/8" hose barb. The other hose on the bottom is 1/2", my fitting is 1/8" pipe X 1/2" hose barb.

Rusty

gnxtc2 · Aug 16, 2014

Thanks

Billy T.
[email protected]

FrankTheTank · Aug 16, 2014

Is your only issue with the design the lack of fittings?

gnxtc2 · Aug 16, 2014

Pretty much.....They should be 1/4NPT bungs.

Billy T.
[email protected]

gnxtc2 · Aug 17, 2014

rusty1161 said:
The barb for the hose going to the overflow is 3/8", so you're good there with the 1/8" pipe X 3/8" hose barb. The other hose on the bottom is 1/2", my fitting is 1/8" pipe X 1/2" hose barb.

Rusty

Where did you find the 1/8 pipe x 1/2 barb? Having a tough time finding it. Is it a one piece brass fitting ?

Thanks

Billy T.
[email protected]

rusty1161 · Aug 17, 2014

gnxtc2 said:
Where did you find the 1/8 pipe x 1/2 barb? Having a tough time finding it. Is it a one piece brass fitting ?

Thanks

Billy T.
[email protected]

I swapped it from my original radiator with the other fitting.

Rusty

FrankTheTank · Aug 18, 2014

That's what I thought you were soposed to do and that us why they designed it that way.

gnxtc2 · Aug 18, 2014

FrankTheTank said:
That's what I thought you were soposed to do and that us why they designed it that way.

If they designed like that, then the trans cooler should've had 1/4 NPT bungs like the OEM rad. But anyway, I like to have spare fittings on hand because anything could happen. The rad is over 17 years and fittings exposed to the northest weather could have issues coming out.

Did the rad today. I cut off the 5/16 barb nipples off the trans cooler; drilled and tapped the bung to 1/4NPT. After drilling, I carefully opened up the trans cooler inlet/outlet to 3/8. I am running SD trans lines which are 3/8 and a 6.0 trans cooler which has 1/2" hoses.

Along with the rad, I converted over to the SD idler. The clutch fan was stuck on, so I replaced it with a Hayden piece. And buttomed it up with a billet water neck and silicone upper hose from Dieselsite.

Went for a ride, the needle is on the "N" of NORMAL. Before it was hovering in the beginning part of range \_NORMAL_/.

No complaints about the rad except for the trans cooler fittings.

Billy T.
[email protected]

rusty1161 · Aug 24, 2014

gnxtc2 said:
If they designed like that, then the trans cooler should've had 1/4 NPT bungs like the OEM rad. But anyway, I like to have spare fittings on hand because anything could happen. The rad is over 17 years and fittings exposed to the northest weather could have issues coming out.

Did the rad today. I cut off the 5/16 barb nipples off the trans cooler; drilled and tapped the bung to 1/4NPT. After drilling, I carefully opened up the trans cooler inlet/outlet to 3/8. I am running SD trans lines which are 3/8 and a 6.0 trans cooler which has 1/2" hoses.

Along with the rad, I converted over to the SD idler. The clutch fan was stuck on, so I replaced it with a Hayden piece. And buttomed it up with a billet water neck and silicone upper hose from Dieselsite.

Went for a ride, the needle is on the "N" of NORMAL. Before it was hovering in the beginning part of range \_NORMAL_/.

No complaints about the rad except for the trans cooler fittings.

Billy T.
[email protected]

How is the Hayden fan clutch working for you? Any reason why you chose that one over the Motorcraft one?

Thanks.

Rusty

gnxtc2 · Aug 25, 2014

rusty1161 said:
How is the Hayden fan clutch working for you? Any reason why you chose that one over the Motorcraft one?

Thanks.

Rusty

I wanted to use the Ford/Motorcraft one but it was $350 and my guy told me it was obsolete. The fan clutch is on Ebay but I think they cost too much compared to the Hayden piece for $118.

No complaints on the Hayden fan clutch so far.

Billy T.
[email protected]

Swaan · Aug 25, 2014

I gave up on the therm fan clutch in my 97.
I put a new spectra severe duty clutch in when I installed my mishimoto rad. Temps would climb to 230 before it would come on. Changed it out for a motorcraft it was worse.

Finally got mad and put a horton ec450 electric clutch in. No more problems now.
Got it setup on a 210 degree on thermosensor in the head, and also a manual switch so I can put it on anytime.
Not sure why the stock clutches wouldn't work but I was done trying to figure it out. Dam things.

gnxtc2 · Aug 25, 2014

Was the Horton EC450 a bolt in deal?.....tell us more.

Billy T.
[email protected]

Swaan · Aug 25, 2014

Yes a bolt in
I had a 6.0 fan but had to put the stock obs fan on with the ec450. The horton puts the fan closer to the rad so the offset of the 6.0 fan wouldn't work. Works perfect with the stock fan thou.
You do need to switch out the 2 wire high presure cutout switch on the AC compressor to a 4 wire to engage the clutch when head presure gets to high with AC on sitting in traffic.

Put a manual switch in cab also.
I used a kysor 210 degree temp switch for water temp.
Works great.
Truck gets 1-2 mpg better fuel milage now because of the fan not always spinning and has noticeably more pep.
Also much less noise in the morning when first heading out, seems to warm up faster too. !

At 3000 rpm with the fan switched on it sounds like a small tornado under the hood. Defiantly moves some air now.

I got the clutch off e-bay. $299. New.

My local international dealer want $800 for same clutch.

I think this mod is worth while for sure!

rusty1161 · Aug 25, 2014

Here is a thread with some pics http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/94...-horton-ec-450-electric-clutch-fan-drive.html

Rusty

gnxtc2 · Aug 25, 2014

Hmmmm..... I have a Fluidampr and with the 6.0 fan that I'm running, I eliminated the fan spacer. The Horton EC450 moves the fan 1" closer to the rad.

Billy T.
[email protected]

Swaan · Aug 25, 2014

gnxtc2 said:
Hmmmm..... I have a Fluidampr and with the 6.0 fan that I'm running, I eliminated the fan spacer. The Horton EC450 moves the fan 1" closer to the rad.

Billy T.
[email protected]

Yes billy. I run a fluid damper also. The 6.0 fan with the ec450 is a no go. To close to rad. Off set all wrong.
Ec450 with stock obs fan perfect with the fluid damper. No need for the spacer.

gnxtc2 · Aug 26, 2014

Swaan said:
Yes a bolt in
I had a 6.0 fan but had to put the stock obs fan on with the ec450. The horton puts the fan closer to the rad so the offset of the 6.0 fan wouldn't work. Works perfect with the stock fan thou.
You do need to switch out the 2 wire high presure cutout switch on the AC compressor to a 4 wire to engage the clutch when head presure gets to high with AC on sitting in traffic.

Put a manual switch in cab also.
I used a kysor 210 degree temp switch for water temp.
Works great.
Truck gets 1-2 mpg better fuel milage now because of the fan not always spinning and has noticeably more pep.
Also much less noise in the morning when first heading out, seems to warm up faster too. !

At 3000 rpm with the fan switched on it sounds like a small tornado under the hood. Defiantly moves some air now.

I got the clutch off e-bay. $299. New.

My local international dealer want $800 for same clutch.

I think this mod is worth while for sure!

Since all this uncertainy about the fan clutch, I bought Horton EC450 kit, part # 996123 off E-Bay. Seems like it does not include the harness, temp switch and relay. The relay is no biggie. Would you have part numbers for the switch and harness?

Just to go over a few things:
- I read the thread on .org, did you use the AC switch mentioned in the thread? Or did you a different one? If you used the same one listed, what did you grind/clearance, any pics?
- Any difference putting the temp switch in the driver's side head instead of the passenger side? The driver side has all the electric stuff.
- I believe I'm running a 192* T-Stat with my Int'l water pump. What temp switch would I need?

Post away if I've missed anything or any helpful tips.

Thanks

Billy T.om
[email protected]

Swaan · Aug 26, 2014

Wow billy. ! You move quick man lol

As far as a harness I made mine from scratch.
Real easy if your good with wiring.

The AC switch I used was out of a ford Taurus. The one I got is same outside diameter as the stocker so no grinding required. Just unscrew stock one and screw in the 4 wire one.

Not sure on part #. I'll look at it when I get home.
I would use a 210 or 215 temp switch. They are made by kysor.
I will get u a part # when I'm home later today.

I just used normally open switches on every thing. So as soon as any one of them closes it compleats the ground and turns the fan relay on. The AC switch is normally open also.
Perty easy really.

When my AC commands the fan to come on, it is so efficient it only stays on for 3-5 seconds then shuts off. It does that about every minute or so if trucks not moving