Groomzybanshee
New member
I would call tomorrow an see
thoughts
- Thread starter OSCS
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OSCS
New member
Again I am in no way accusing DI of anything malicious. If it appears that way I apologize. I just want to get some opinions on what you guys think this thing is so I have a little more education on the matter when I call David Tommorow morning. Even if it where something other than a PI I would not think that it was done on purpose.
Looks like a T converter to me...
Looks black... Hard to tell.
Looks to be made of metal, I would guess a high grade steel, but you would have to get that checked out.
Has some numbers on the side, hard to make out, one looks to be a 3...
Looks black... Hard to tell.
Looks to be made of metal, I would guess a high grade steel, but you would have to get that checked out.
Has some numbers on the side, hard to make out, one looks to be a 3...
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
lol joe! smartazz
sent from who knows where
sent from who knows where
OSCS
New member
Great observation joe! Now I defenitly know the make
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OSCS
New member
DI paints their PI converters black.
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OSCS
New member
He said it was to differentiate his transmission from the other guys and to make it easier for him to ID it.. I would think green/orange would do a better job of that.
PowerstrokeJunkie
Active member
I am partial to the purple converter, so much in fact i have left the cover off for the past few years
OSCS
New member
Anyone have any advice on dropping the motor in with or without the tranny attached?
OSCS
New member
Damnit.. Your the second person to tell me that.. It seems like it would be so much easier with the tranny attached.
OSCS
New member
Does it have anything to do with the total weight? hard to move around etc? I'm using a 20ton over head crane to drop it in so I can make as many micro movements as I need
2000wa250
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Heres my $.02.....
You're going through the headache of putting a motor in regardless. I know I am planning on buying a forged block as a back up. Cheaper, and if it gets me 20-40K then its worth the 800-1600 bucks it cost me. Thats a cost benefit analysis IMO. If you really feel that nervous about windowing another block, then instead of spending the money right now on billet rods, spend it on 2 forged blocks then you have a back up. If you blow the one in the truck, then you can swap the other one in, and take it from there.
IMO I'd rather save some money now, buy myself some time, and allow myself to build up a motor on my terms rather than being forced to do it because my daily driver is down. Just seems like a much more financially responsible way to go about it. Who knows, the forged block you put in could last for 100K at that power level without any problems. If you're like me, thats 7+ years of driving that I got for simply the price of a forged block, not 10K. In that 7+ years I can buy everything I need to build a motor the way I want, without it severely impacting my financial well being and without putting myself into a ton of debt. Then if the one I put in blows I can grab a new block, throw the parts I've been saving in it, and put it in, or I could already have a fully build block ready to go and all I have to do is swap it in.
I know you've already made the decision to buy a forged block, but I just wanted to put my rationale into the thread for others in the future that may come across the same decision.
You're going through the headache of putting a motor in regardless. I know I am planning on buying a forged block as a back up. Cheaper, and if it gets me 20-40K then its worth the 800-1600 bucks it cost me. Thats a cost benefit analysis IMO. If you really feel that nervous about windowing another block, then instead of spending the money right now on billet rods, spend it on 2 forged blocks then you have a back up. If you blow the one in the truck, then you can swap the other one in, and take it from there.
IMO I'd rather save some money now, buy myself some time, and allow myself to build up a motor on my terms rather than being forced to do it because my daily driver is down. Just seems like a much more financially responsible way to go about it. Who knows, the forged block you put in could last for 100K at that power level without any problems. If you're like me, thats 7+ years of driving that I got for simply the price of a forged block, not 10K. In that 7+ years I can buy everything I need to build a motor the way I want, without it severely impacting my financial well being and without putting myself into a ton of debt. Then if the one I put in blows I can grab a new block, throw the parts I've been saving in it, and put it in, or I could already have a fully build block ready to go and all I have to do is swap it in.
I know you've already made the decision to buy a forged block, but I just wanted to put my rationale into the thread for others in the future that may come across the same decision.
2000wa250
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Oh and as for whether to put it in with the tranny attached or not, I would assume that its about the available space not the weight. The transmissions on these things are very big and bulky, and trying to line it all up, slide it all in, and get it just right seems like it would be a royal PITA. If you have access to that crane, why not just use it to lift the cab off, install engine and transmission, and replace the cab? Seems like that would be the way I'd go about it if I was using a crane instead of an engine hoist.
OSCS
New member
Taking the cab off requires 4 points of contact which would require something homemade to balance the cab on a central lifting point (crane hook)
OSCS
New member
I don't mind dropping in the motor and tranny seperately I'm just looking for the easiest way to do it
bruce
Active member
Take the whole front clip off and the engine and tranny will go in together. Its not an easy task any way you go about it.
