URGENT: Help

[2000wa250]

Same place a hpx line goes? Just cranked it with the vc off and no oil out of injectors...

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[Dieselboy.]

Yes, I believe so.

There probably isnt oil in the rails yet.

When cranking your oil pressure gauge should go up after a long crank. Does it move ?

 

[2000wa250]

yes, after a while of cranking the oil pressure gauge in the cab, the dummy gauge, rises to the normal area, right about then is when my batteries normally say **** you and stop cranking fast enough

 

[onebad7.3]

Where you located? If you were close by I'd head over and give ya a hand.

 

[2000wa250]

Ellensburg wa

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[bad12jr]

Did you check the hpop rail and is the fuel bowl full

 

[2000wa250]

Haven't checked the rail yet....what's the procedure to do that? I have an hpx line so im assuming just take that off?

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[caladash]

Ok....first things first. Double check to make sure all your fuses are good. All of them. Check your bowl for fuel. If it's full....take off the high pressure oil crossover line and see if oil spills out of there from the rail. If it doesnt, check your high pressure oil reservoir. Should be a little bit below the top. If it's full, you have air in the oil rails most likely. After a few seconds of cranking, crack the cross over line to bleed the air then try to start again. Also make sure everything that was disconnected is hooked back up properly. Especially the big connector on top of the drivers side valve cover.

 

[Dieselboy.]

You just need to keep cranking. Put the batteries on charge till both are 100%. Plug the block heater in and crank it. If it has oil pressure it should be close to firing. Provided you have fuel.

 

[2000wa250]

The fuel bowl is full. Could I try cracking the hpx while cranking? Give the air somewhere to go? I understand this could get messy if I build pressure all of a sudden...but id rather have that then no truck. Checking my starter tomorrow too...just to rule that out. Feels like its on its way out....cranks hard ans fast for about ten seconds then gradually gets slower. Can smell diesel when cranking so I would assume that there is fuel in injectors. Also the gauge on my regulated return is holding steady at 65 psi while cranking. I have a hunch that the starter may be the original one that came on the truck. Would that be a
part of the problem?

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[FirstSixOh]

Do not crank the engine with low batteries. It will damage the FICM.

 

[Snake]

Do not crank the engine with low batteries. It will damage the FICM.

Where is the FICM located on a 7.3?



















I know you were trying to help, but its better not to say anything at all if you don't know what you're talking about. As a FYI, the 7.3 does not have a FICM.

 

[2000wa250]

Ficm? Its a 7.3 don't believe I have one

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[onebad7.3]

Ficm? Its a 7.3 don't believe I have one

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No, you don't.
Sounds like your starter may be on its way out. Mine was shot at 97k miles.
Keep the charger on the batts.
Open your hpx line a little or loosen the icp sensor and crank it and see if oil shoots out.
If everything it hooked up correctly you must have a pile of air in the rails. All the times I've did injectors, it never took any longer than a half hour to get the truck fired.

 

[2000wa250]

My guess is that a combination of everything talked about so far.....along with a completely shot gpr...started smoking...and cold temps....just making a perfect storm preventing me from getting this **** started.

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[Dieselboy.]

Are injectors the only thing you changed ? Might have to pull a valve cover and make sure they all seated properly ?

It should still fire though, like you said a bunch of little things could be causing your issue but it shouldnt take that long.

 

[onebad7.3]

Do you have the truck plugged in?
Does the truck ever act like it wants to start?
Are you getting smoke out the exhaust?

 

[2000wa250]

injectors are all we changed. Some smoke, but nothing truly noticable, more like fumes. truck was not plugged in, has been over night, Worked the night shift last night so I will be digging in to it here soon. Thinking about replacing the starter, or at least having mine tested. What am I looking for spec wise on the starter to know if it is good or not?

If I understand it correctly, the situation is as follows....

IF there is oil in the rails
IF there is fuel in the rails
IF the electrical is all connected

THEN it should start

however, if the starter is not spinning it fast enough for the IDM to trigger the injectors, then all of the above does not matter because it simply will not fire off and I will be sitting here chasing my tail. Also, if the starter is not spinning the engine fast enough, or cannot spin it fast enough, or is on its last leg, it will

draw more amperage causing batteries to loose charge faster
take longer for the hpop to refill the rails and work the air out

So it seems to me that if i were to look at this simply as a hard start or no start problem, signs would point to either low charge (has been checked) or weak starter. Couple that with cold weather and lack of GP's and boom....extended crank with no start. Now lets add in the fact that there IS air in the system, and you get whats going on for me now.

Between autozone, o'rielys, and napa, where should I go for a starter?

 

[onebad7.3]

injectors are all we changed. Some smoke, but nothing truly noticable, more like fumes. truck was not plugged in, has been over night, Worked the night shift last night so I will be digging in to it here soon. Thinking about replacing the starter, or at least having mine tested. What am I looking for spec wise on the starter to know if it is good or not?

If I understand it correctly, the situation is as follows....

IF there is oil in the rails
IF there is fuel in the rails
IF the electrical is all connected

THEN it should start

however, if the starter is not spinning it fast enough for the IDM to trigger the injectors, then all of the above does not matter because it simply will not fire off and I will be sitting here chasing my tail. Also, if the starter is not spinning the engine fast enough, or cannot spin it fast enough, or is on its last leg, it will

draw more amperage causing batteries to loose charge faster
take longer for the hpop to refill the rails and work the air out

So it seems to me that if i were to look at this simply as a hard start or no start problem, signs would point to either low charge (has been checked) or weak starter. Couple that with cold weather and lack of GP's and boom....extended crank with no start. Now lets add in the fact that there IS air in the system, and you get whats going on for me now.

Between autozone, o'rielys, and napa, where should I go for a starter?

Your best bet is to get yours rebuilt if needed. About a month ago I noticed mine drawing more amperage than it should, had it rebuilt for $95. I think I read somewhere that your glow plug relay is bad, get a new one. Got mine at Napa for $75. Or you can PM BigStroker he is a sponsor, he can get you the Stancor relay.
How slow is your starter turning? when you are cranking it over is your rpm needle jumping around?

 

[2000wa250]

Rpm is at about 250 id guess during cranking. Took a video of it cranking just gotta figure out how to get it in here. Oil is in the rails and ut is building icon...ask me how I know. Running to the store to grab some more oil...see reason why I know its building icp. Thinking either its low in oil....I have a bent dipstick that I procrastinated fixing and im kicking myself about that now....so were thinking it might just be low on oil or its not cranking fast enough for idm to call for the injectors to fire.

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