4 link suspension

lusklxix · Jul 12, 2012

Thanks for the input layson all of your points do make sense, guess I'll be looking at a 3 link setup as well.

Crack85 · Jul 12, 2012

OUO ALA's way to go. Got em on my truck, 8" icon/ouo. Love it.

Dustball8504 · Jul 12, 2012

Do any of ya'll have problems with the ALAs making noise? Mine are constantly making noise when I'm turning or hit a bump. I've tried calling OUO a few times with no one returning the call. I dunno but I'm just about fed up with them.

MINK · Jul 12, 2012

Dustball8504 said:
Do any of ya'll have problems with the ALAs making noise? Mine are constantly making noise when I'm turning or hit a bump. I've tried calling OUO a few times with no one returning the call. I dunno but I'm just about fed up with them.

I've heard that they are noisey but my PMFs havnt made a sound. Hope you figure it out!

Dustball8504 · Jul 12, 2012

MINK said:
I've heard that they are noisey but my PMFs havnt made a sound. Hope you figure it out!

I'm pulling on the 22nd. If I can't get them straightened out by then or shortly after I'm taking them off. I also have a problem with one of the jam nuts backing off no matter how much I tighten it. That is part of the problem because when it backs off the bearing will cock to the side and rub against the mount. But they even make noise as soon as I back out of the garage from JUST straightening the bearing back out and tightening it down again.

dstryr · Jul 12, 2012

Dustball8504 said:
I'm pulling on the 22nd. If I can't get them straightened out by then or shortly after I'm taking them off. I also have a problem with one of the jam nuts backing off no matter how much I tighten it. That is part of the problem because when it backs off the bearing will cock to the side and rub against the mount. But they even make noise as soon as I back out of the garage from JUST straightening the bearing back out and tightening it down again.

Call Dave at OUO...He seemed good about returning calls? When I bought my traction bars he called me back at like 7pm on a friday night...

Dustball8504 · Jul 12, 2012

dstryr said:
Call Dave at OUO...He seemed good about returning calls? When I bought my traction bars he called me back at like 7pm on a friday night...

I'll keep trying but this will be the 3rd message in 2 weeks lol.

Crack85 · Jul 12, 2012

Dustball8504 said:
Do any of ya'll have problems with the ALAs making noise? Mine are constantly making noise when I'm turning or hit a bump. I've tried calling OUO a few times with no one returning the call. I dunno but I'm just about fed up with them.

Do you grease them??

Dustball8504 · Jul 12, 2012

Crack85 said:
Do you grease them??

Yes, it's not from that. I can feel it in the floorboards going down the road.

Crack85 · Jul 12, 2012

Dustball8504 said:
Yes, it's not from that. I can feel it in the floorboards going down the road.

Mine used to do that, then I changed my ball joints and all noises stopped.

Dustball8504 · Jul 12, 2012

Crack85 said:
Mine used to do that, then I changed my ball joints and all noises stopped.

It didn't do it with the stock radius arms. It did it right after I put these on. I'm sure they just aren't adjusted right or something stupid.

powerlifter405 · Jul 12, 2012

Dustball8504 said:
It didn't do it with the stock radius arms. It did it right after I put these on. I'm sure they just aren't adjusted right or something stupid.

use any loctite? The red might be too much but the blue should keep the jam nut from turning. The are adjustable to fine tune not for taking on and off so I'd figure the blue or red should work great. I'll use some blue on my pmf's just for that reason you're having.

07_powerstroke · Jul 12, 2012

I have a pmf 4 link it works good but it does make noise. Trevor sent me new bushings for the joints I hope that fixes the issue

Layson · Jul 13, 2012

Dustball8504 said:
It didn't do it with the stock radius arms. It did it right after I put these on. I'm sure they just aren't adjusted right or something stupid.

Yeah just call him again. These guys are very busy and I know he will at least give you some direction on trying to figure out where it is coming from. They normally don't make any noises.

Hey, did you ever talk to him about your pulling issues?

Dustball8504 · Jul 13, 2012

Layson said:
Yeah just call him again. These guys are very busy and I know he will at least give you some direction on trying to figure out where it is coming from. They normally don't make any noises.

Hey, did you ever talk to him about your pulling issues?

I left a couple messages and never got anything back. I think it was mainly a shock and tire pressure issue after talking with Jared. I'll find out on the 22nd how it does with new shocks and dropping the pressure down. Hopefully I can get some powa on the ground!

CAT35niner · Jul 13, 2012

Layson said:
Not trying to start a battle here but here are my thoughts. Some don't agree but here you go.

1) The OEM steering is matched to a 3-link not a 4-link. If you put a 4-link on your truck you will probably get bump steer and you will feel it it in the steering wheel. It will also add additional stress on your steering box, drag link, and track rod as well as your ball joints. It does the same thing as changing a pitman arm and not changing the track rod bracket.

2) The rubber bushings in the axle are not designed to twist like the 4-link needs them to, so the bolts are going to work loose or it will tear up the bushings. Those big rubber bushings don't magically turn into uni-balls. They were not built to be used like that.

3) The 3-link is part of a sway bar system and putting a 4-link on a truck that came with a 3-link will require a bigger sway bar because there will be more body roll.

4) An item that may not be a large factor but still should be considered is at full suspension droop. The U-joint is at more of an angle on a 4-link and could bind up and cause a drive shaft or t-case failure.

I dont agree with most of it. But im not starting any battles. Ill stick with the 4 link. Everybody has their own preferences.

Ipkyss · Jul 14, 2012

I have said this in a few other threads. But It really bothers me when everyone sits here and says that changing from stock, to a 3 link, 4 link, ect stopped there bump steer. It is not possible. No if's an's or but's about it. There is not a single way possible that changing front to rear facing control arms of any type can have any effect on bumpsteer.

I feels its a case of everyone wants to think it helps because you just spent a bunch of money on something.

Bumpsteer is caused by bad geometry between the side to side track bar and the drag link in the steering. The only way possible to not have ANY bump steer is to have the track bar and drag link the EXACT same lenght and on the EXACT same angle. Which is almost impossible in most cases.

As far as a parallel 4 link, vs a 3 link ( the two we are comparing here). There is really not a huge reason that makes one better than the other. The only main plus to the 4 link is it gives you the option to add some extra strength with the extra arm. That being said. A 3 link can be built more than strong enough.

One more thing to clear up. The factory set up is not a 3 link. It is a radius arm suspension. A radius arm suspension has two lower trailing arms plus a track bar. A 3 link has two lower links, 1 upper link(completely seperate from the lower links), plus a track bar. A 4 link has 2 lower links, two completely seperate upper links, plus a track bar.

MINK · Jul 14, 2012

Ipkyss said:
I have said this in a few other threads. But It really bothers me when everyone sits here and says that changing from stock, to a 3 link, 4 link, ect stopped there bump steer. It is not possible. No if's an's or but's about it. There is not a single way possible that changing front to rear facing control arms of any type can have any effect on bumpsteer.

I feels its a case of everyone wants to think it helps because you just spent a bunch of money on something.

Bumpsteer is caused by bad geometry between the side to side track bar and the drag link in the steering. The only way possible to not have ANY bump steer is to have the track bar and drag link the EXACT same lenght and on the EXACT same angle. Which is almost impossible in most cases.

As far as a parallel 4 link, vs a 3 link ( the two we are comparing here). There is really not a huge reason that makes one better than the other. The only main plus to the 4 link is it gives you the option to add some extra strength with the extra arm. That being said. A 3 link can be built more than strong enough.

One more thing to clear up. The factory set up is not a 3 link. It is a radius arm suspension. A radius arm suspension has two lower trailing arms plus a track bar. A 3 link has two lower links, 1 upper link(completely seperate from the lower links), plus a track bar. A 4 link has 2 lower links, two completely seperate upper links, plus a track bar.

Have you drivin a truck with ala's or a pmf 3-link?