6.0.4 revisited
- Thread starter TheReelMuhcoy
- Start date
TheReelMuhcoy
New member
Need some help here guys...
I had pulled things apart to repair the oil leak again (this time for good). Made up a bracket to mount the coolant tank, etc, etc. I Plugged the FICM in and was tucking it in its temporary location between the coolant tank and drivers side battery. While doing so the plug snagged on something and i bumped the positive lead on the battery, which arc'd. Attempted to start the truck, and nothing. I checked all associated fuses under the drivers side fuse box, but nothing is blown. Could I have blown a fuse elsewhere that i am not aware of? Maybe blown one of the relay's for the FICM, or did I just simply fry the FICM? I am not sure how to test the relay's, and do not want to dump $400 into a new FICM when I do not know if that is the problem, also since this FICM is just under 2 years old from Swamps.
All help here is appreciated.
I had pulled things apart to repair the oil leak again (this time for good). Made up a bracket to mount the coolant tank, etc, etc. I Plugged the FICM in and was tucking it in its temporary location between the coolant tank and drivers side battery. While doing so the plug snagged on something and i bumped the positive lead on the battery, which arc'd. Attempted to start the truck, and nothing. I checked all associated fuses under the drivers side fuse box, but nothing is blown. Could I have blown a fuse elsewhere that i am not aware of? Maybe blown one of the relay's for the FICM, or did I just simply fry the FICM? I am not sure how to test the relay's, and do not want to dump $400 into a new FICM when I do not know if that is the problem, also since this FICM is just under 2 years old from Swamps.
All help here is appreciated.
vcassens
New member
You can test the ficm with a DMM the instructions are on swamps site
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Coxey Diesel
New member
I would have to guess it's fried. You can test it easy enough though.
strokin6L
Active member
Pretty sure I know what happened. You blew a fuseable link. They are on the alternator cable going to the passanger side battery. Happened to me once installing a turbo.
MorganY
New member
Since you relocated the ficm. Check ficm sync, ficm lpwr, ficmmp, and ficm vpwr. One of those many wires couldve come undone. Happened to me, lost lpwr
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
TheReelMuhcoy
New member
Correction: by "nothing" I really ment that the truck cranks over, but does not start.
TheReelMuhcoy
New member
I soldierd all of my splices, so it is not likely that something came undone. I am very concerned about the spark from contacting the positive battery terminal though.
MorganY
New member
Its easy to check, so might as well give it a shot and eliminate it. My apologies, I didnt read above my post and just saw a crank no start. The fuseable links are inline with the alternator wire. Shouldnt cause the truck to not start if there is enough voltage
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TheReelMuhcoy
New member
FICM is toast. Sending it to Swamps ASAP, I figure I will have them load either of the Atlas or Hercules FICM tunes. What does everyone think? I always say "go big or go home" so my initial thought is the Hercules.
TooMuch03
New member
I agree economy. I ran my truck with an aggressive FICm tune and it would idle like crap when cold, I switched to an economy tune and the idle smoothed out just like a normal truck.
TheReelMuhcoy
New member
Is the idle the only reason for the economy tune over the Hercules? Anyone know what the power gains of the Economy tune are?
No the idle is not the only reason. They're too aggressive with fueling, you can control most of the fueling in ecm tuning but there are limits, the economy remove the limitations and is mild enough to control smoke and heat through the ecm.
Hellen Keller sent this?
Hellen Keller sent this?
TheReelMuhcoy
New member
Even the Atlas 40 and 80 are to aggressive?
strokin6L
Active member
I think the atlas 40 is fine. That is close to what ID's mild FICM tuning is I think...but don't quote me.
05wh250
New member
I had the atlas 40 on mine and it ran good I just had to watch how I drove it, until I went on vacation at sea level and could watch it haze at idle and 5psi and under, anything over 5 psi and it was really noticeable. Just swapped to idp ficm tuning and the difference is night and day, doesn't haze at idle and at 10 psi there is barely a haze starting. Not saying one is better than the other just my experience.
We had a pretty good thread about this on here already, basically forget the FICM tuning if you run anything other than stock nozzles... injector size didn't seem to matter too much, but the larger nozzles in combination with the FICM tuning was just making a ton of smoke and really high EGT's.
I'd just stick with a 58V unit myself. I have fried a FICM before too, always a good time.
I'd just stick with a 58V unit myself. I have fried a FICM before too, always a good time.
strokin6L
Active member
FICM tuning helps a lot. I wouldn't say forget it. I've got 190/75's and I wouldn't wanna run my truck without it. I love how it helped with throttle response. It even smokes less with it. I'd recommenced it to anyone with larger injectors/nozzles. And a 58v FICM did nothing to my truck. I'd do the FICM tuning over the 58v mod any day of the week!
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