swinky
New member
I just installed a 6.7 pump on my truck and I'm very happy with it. The overall install was pretty easy.
First thing you will need is a fuel pump install kit from eBay, jegs, summit..... I got mine from jegs and it included a relay, circuit breaker, some electrical connections and it was pre wired.
The red wire was battery power. I ran that to the battery with a circuit breaker in the middle
Now you have three more wires.
1. Power to pump
2. Ground
3. Switched power
Power to the pump was the purple wire 10ga that simply ran straight to the pump.
For the ground I just went to a known good ground under the dash, the same one my gauges were grounded to. This wire ran straight out of the relay box to ground on the metal framing.
Now you need switched power so the 6.7 pump will turn on and off like the factory pump. For this I cut the power wire (red wire for me) that originally powered the 6.0 hfcm. I cut the original connector off and spliced into that. Now every time the truck tries to send power to the 6.0 pump you're actually sending power to close the relay and send power to your 6.7 pump.
* I do believe there is a power wire under the dash you can splice into but I didn't want to take any chances
Now you need to ground your 6.7 pump. Once again I just ran wire from the pump into the cab to the same known good ground. Now your pump should turn on with the key as the 6.0 pump did.
MOUNTING.
Well the 6.7 pump doesn't fit where the 6blow pump was. I mounted mine on the inside of the frame in front of the fuel tank. TIP* I had some touch up paint in the truck so I painted the end of the studs on the pump bracket then pressed them into the frame once I had the bracket lined up. This left four nice marks on the frame for me to drill. I would recommend a small bit for accuracy then follow with the correct size bit. My drill bits danced on the frame a little and I ended up having to drill the holes a little big to get all four to line up. The studs are metric M8 1.25 I believe.
Now that it's mounted you can run your lines. The 6.7 pump is 1/2 feed, out and return. 1/2 line from my sump to the pump was simple. If you don't have a sump don't install this pump. Now feed was tricky. I'm running the factory bowl so I just removed the whole factory feed line and put 1/2 fuel hose over the male threaded fitting on the bowl ( I will be changing this with a y block and a frame mounted filter to get rid of the bowl completely) Now for the return. My regulated return maintained the factory return line so I just cut the fittings off that use to go on the 6.0 pump and hooked them together with 3/8 fuel hose. The return is going straight to the tank and bypassing the 6.7 pump completely.
I highly recommend buying quality butt splices and ring terminals. Heat shrink everything and cover any wire outside the cab with some wire loom.
I will edit this with more pictures and anything I forgot.
I haven't monitored pressure yet but my egts went up 250-300 degrees and it's running strong as ever. Butt dyno says about 50hp gain up top, keep in mind my old pump was making less than 20 psi over 3000 rpms.
First thing you will need is a fuel pump install kit from eBay, jegs, summit..... I got mine from jegs and it included a relay, circuit breaker, some electrical connections and it was pre wired.
The red wire was battery power. I ran that to the battery with a circuit breaker in the middle
Now you have three more wires.
1. Power to pump
2. Ground
3. Switched power
Power to the pump was the purple wire 10ga that simply ran straight to the pump.
For the ground I just went to a known good ground under the dash, the same one my gauges were grounded to. This wire ran straight out of the relay box to ground on the metal framing.
Now you need switched power so the 6.7 pump will turn on and off like the factory pump. For this I cut the power wire (red wire for me) that originally powered the 6.0 hfcm. I cut the original connector off and spliced into that. Now every time the truck tries to send power to the 6.0 pump you're actually sending power to close the relay and send power to your 6.7 pump.
* I do believe there is a power wire under the dash you can splice into but I didn't want to take any chances
Now you need to ground your 6.7 pump. Once again I just ran wire from the pump into the cab to the same known good ground. Now your pump should turn on with the key as the 6.0 pump did.
MOUNTING.
Well the 6.7 pump doesn't fit where the 6blow pump was. I mounted mine on the inside of the frame in front of the fuel tank. TIP* I had some touch up paint in the truck so I painted the end of the studs on the pump bracket then pressed them into the frame once I had the bracket lined up. This left four nice marks on the frame for me to drill. I would recommend a small bit for accuracy then follow with the correct size bit. My drill bits danced on the frame a little and I ended up having to drill the holes a little big to get all four to line up. The studs are metric M8 1.25 I believe.
Now that it's mounted you can run your lines. The 6.7 pump is 1/2 feed, out and return. 1/2 line from my sump to the pump was simple. If you don't have a sump don't install this pump. Now feed was tricky. I'm running the factory bowl so I just removed the whole factory feed line and put 1/2 fuel hose over the male threaded fitting on the bowl ( I will be changing this with a y block and a frame mounted filter to get rid of the bowl completely) Now for the return. My regulated return maintained the factory return line so I just cut the fittings off that use to go on the 6.0 pump and hooked them together with 3/8 fuel hose. The return is going straight to the tank and bypassing the 6.7 pump completely.
I highly recommend buying quality butt splices and ring terminals. Heat shrink everything and cover any wire outside the cab with some wire loom.
I will edit this with more pictures and anything I forgot.
I haven't monitored pressure yet but my egts went up 250-300 degrees and it's running strong as ever. Butt dyno says about 50hp gain up top, keep in mind my old pump was making less than 20 psi over 3000 rpms.
oke: how accurate is your butt dyno?
