vanderchevy18
New member
Yeah I changed the oil. The plug was perfectly clean. I'm sure the pump is all that's wrong since I've been having issues getting oil to the top of the motor for a while now.
600hp was fun but boring. Going bigger!
- Thread starter vanderchevy18
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lincolnlocker
Well-known member
vanderchevy18
New member
Think that's cool? Check this one out. It actually is cool.
http://static.photobucket.com/playe...493/vanderchevy18/VID_20130718_214644_966.mp4
To be sure, I would put a mechanical gauge in a couple of test locations to quantify/confirm the pressure. From my experience, I dont trust the sender switch. IMO, just free revving the motor should not draw enough oil volume to cause that much pressure drop. Agreed, theres something else going on
vanderchevy18
New member
Hmm. OK so I installed the pressure gauge. It stays about 11-12psi idling. I replaced the lpop with a known good one and I noticed while it was off that there was a little grooving on the base plate. Nothing too catastrophic though I wouldn't think. Anyway, new pump, new oil pressure sensor, new oil, and still no go. 11-12psi idling and 30-40 revved up. As soon as the pump pressure gets below 15psi the factory gauge goes down and the light comes on. Weird
Groomzybanshee
New member
I'm assuming you changed filter when rules that out. I've had an oil cooler cause issues like this.
vanderchevy18
New member
Oil cooler huh? That would be a first for me.
vanderchevy18
New member
Something isn't right though. The stock pressure switch is set at 7psi. I'm getting 12 or so at the filter. There shouldn't be that big of a pressure drop.
vanderchevy18
New member
I'm wondering if it isn't my high pressure oil resivour gasket leaking down. I'm going to check the ICP too because it could also be the IPR stuck open causing a massive use of oil at idle. More than likely though its just that my front cover is scored too much. In that case I'm just SOL.
strokin'_tatsch
Member
The pressure relief valve in the oil cooler in particular.. They can gum up and stick sometimes which can cause some strange oil pressure issues. In the older model coolers the valve likes to fall out completely because it is staked in place, not held in with a snap ring like the later model. All SD coolers will have the valve held in with a snap ring, so it's not usually a problem for y'all.
vanderchevy18
New member
Oil cooler is fine. It's the front cover. It is very scored behind the oil pump gear. Very scored. So then. Here's the plan now. Park it for a few weeks until the chassis is done and I move into my new shop. Then drop the motor and trans into the race truck, spend some time finishing up the race truck, and be extremely surprised if it's done by the end of the race season. Unfortunately, that is my current position. I'll even toss on a bran new oil cooler when I move the engine over. The white truck will have a fresh stock motor dropped into it. Maybe even some stage 1's. Then I'm selling it. $10k. Anyone interested? It's famous. LOL LOL LOL
vanderchevy18
New member
Nah. I didn't take any.
Strokersace
Well-known member
Phuck! Let's just change out the front covers, install your wg setup and go. Hell maybe I'll swing over one night soon and do it for you.
vanderchevy18
New member
Lol! Change out the front cover? Without removing the engine to remove the pan? Really? Can't wait to see that trick. LOL
strokin'_tatsch
Member
Not really much of a trick to it. Lower the pan just enough to drop the oil pick up tube. Done it once in the past. Hell, I've changed a piston and rod in truck before. LOL It wasn't the best way to do it, but the guy needed the truck the next day and that's how he wanted it done.
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vanderchevy18
New member
Hmm. Do a half ass job on a motor that's being pushed past its designed limits? Yeah no thanks. I'd rather do it right.
strokin'_tatsch
Member
Not saying do it that way. Just saying it can and has been done successfully. LOL
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