68mm vgt vs s366 opinion.

[TBagAMouseTrap]

Your initial post sounded like my opinion of the 66 i had. Honestly made me question a dead turbo and it probably was. Different people like different things. Had i had more time and money i definitely would have given the non vgt more of a shot, just couldn't afford to try a bunch of changes

That's all I was trying to do was save people money and headaches. If I had a tune that kept rpm around 2k for when I have to pull a hill, or lived down south or midwest where its flat I really wouldn't have much to complain about. With my truck in limp mode the truck spools a lot like it did with the 68vgt. I still think the 68vgt still has more up top compared to the s366 though. Again, if your looking for less than 600hp then I suggest a vgt, if you want to upset your friend with his '14 gt500 at the track like me then go with a bigger non vgt that will get you into the 11s or faster.

 

[johnp115]

That's all I was trying to do was save people money and headaches. If I had a tune that kept rpm around 2k for when I have to pull a hill, or lived down south or midwest where its flat I really wouldn't have much to complain about. With my truck in limp mode the truck spools a lot like it did with the 68vgt. I still think the 68vgt still has more up top compared to the s366 though. Again, if your looking for less than 600hp then I suggest a vgt, if you want to upset your friend with his '14 gt500 at the track like me then go with a bigger non vgt that will get you into the 11s or faster.

Exactly man.

My stock turbos against my friends 5.0 he pulled away, single turbo and i got him up top. But i was pissed how much harder it was to merge onto highways and pass people yada yada yada.. It is a big change and i definitely suggest people drive a non vgt truck before switching, if the don't have the money for time to perfect the setup.

 

[andrewsteelerford05]

With a up pipes manifolds and gutted out manifold intake a big non vgt turbo are very streetable. To be honest my s475 spools faster the my s366 ever did on the street. Agree though for the average person that's going to haul with it and just drive it around go vgt. But if your like me and wanna go fast and don't like loosing to a little car go non vgt.

 

[strokin6L]

Honestly.....I didn't find it that hard to drive my 64mm or 62mm non vgt turbos. Its for a lot to do with sizing the right non vgt turbo for your truck and getting the tuning spot on. I had to have Eric raise the shift points in my tunes and once he did...I didn't really have any dead spots. Another big thing is being able to control OD with the tow/haul button. Some tuners don't five the customer that option in a tune. So when it goes into OD....truck falls on it face and you're trying to slow down to get it to down shift....then once it does....its right back into OD again falling on its face. I've been there with the non vgt and it has a lot to do with the tuning. I'm actually considering going back to non vgt after running a MTW hybrid, MTW 68mm vgt and now a KC 68mm vgt. I really liked the non vgt a little more.

 

[Mdub707]

I agree Chris. I solve the issue with the truck shifting into OD too early and getting under the turbo by simply turning tow/haul on. Now it wont shift into overdrive until ~65mph. Any hilly situation I just tap the button and no problems. Stays lit easily. I didn't change my torque converter and certainly don't plan to either, I think it just helps. Going non VGT really isn't much of a price difference than going with a big VGT, if you do both from scratch. Some of those large VGT turbos are pretty expensive. Going from one to the other is definitely expensive because you're just buying two completely different setups.

 

[smokedout250]

Been running non Vgt for over a year, tuning is key!!! I also have a 2200 stall converter but I ran a 66 with stock stall and it was fine. Raise the shift points are a must! I switched from a 366 to one of htt's 367.7s. The 67 spools amazing like stock runs around 2-5psi cruising on 35s in od. Get some ced divided up pipes and some good tunes you won't regret it


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[swinky]

Been running non Vgt for over a year, tuning is key!!! I also have a 2200 stall converter but I ran a 66 with stock stall and it was fine. Raise the shift points are a must! I switched from a 366 to one of htt's 367.7s. The 67 spools amazing like stock runs around 2-5psi cruising on 35s in od. Get some ced divided up pipes and some good tunes you won't regret it


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How much was that 67 if you don't mind? Drop in from the 66?

 

[Stroker04]

How much was that 67 if you don't mind? Drop in from the 66?

I'm curious as well.

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[Six_Sloww]

How much was that 67 if you don't mind? Drop in from the 66?

I wonder the same. The brace on the flange of my up pipes is incredibly close to the compressor housing bolts. Makes it damn near impossible to clock the turbo

 

[Josh@DirtyDiesels]

With a up pipes manifolds and gutted out manifold intake a big non vgt turbo are very streetable. To be honest my s475 spools faster the my s366 ever did on the street. Agree though for the average person that's going to haul with it and just drive it around go vgt. But if your like me and wanna go fast and don't like loosing to a little car go non vgt.

Enlighten us with how a 475 spools faster than a 366?

How much was that 67 if you don't mind? Drop in from the 66?

You need a 371...

 

[Stroker04]

Enlighten us with how a 475 spools faster than a 366?



You need a 371...

Lol

I need one too, but I also need to win the lottery.

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[swinky]

Enlighten us with how a 475 spools faster than a 366?



You need a 371...

I need a piston first

 

[KCTurbos]

I started this thread because I'm sure many on here are curious the difference in vgt vs non but can't throw money into both setups to test out. I wanted to state my unbiased opinion as I don't make a living selling turbos. I have ran the factory 04, an 03, a powermax, a barder stage 3, and now a s366, all of which with 190 injectors. How many who praise the non vgt went from stocker to a borg? How many went from big vgt to an s300 or vice versa? Reasons I went 68vgt was it was simple to bolt on, made good power, ran mid 12s, spanked deleted 6.4s on the street and track, didn't require supporting mods (tq converter, up pipes). In my personal opinion as of right now there isn't a better dd/weekend warrior setup. Reasons I swapped to non vgt, I have $750 in the turbo and mount, I eventually wanted more power than the barder could support, didn't like the turbo whine from the barder, I figured I could get into the 366 cheaply(with similar results to the 68vgt) to hold me over while i built a non vgt setup around it then swap to a bigger turbo. And honestly can anyone blame me for trading a box s366+$200 for a custom built s475? I know it will be lag city compared to the s366 but I wanted to go bigger eventually anyways, why not take advantage of a good deal. In my opinion the average 6.0 owner looking for a fun truck without headaches should just stick to a vgt.

That's all I was trying to do was save people money and headaches. If I had a tune that kept rpm around 2k for when I have to pull a hill, or lived down south or midwest where its flat I really wouldn't have much to complain about. With my truck in limp mode the truck spools a lot like it did with the 68vgt. I still think the 68vgt still has more up top compared to the s366 though. Again, if your looking for less than 600hp then I suggest a vgt, if you want to upset your friend with his '14 gt500 at the track like me then go with a bigger non vgt that will get you into the 11s or faster.

There are definitely different strokes for different folks... I appreciate your posts and think they were helpful.


Most guys get on here and claim one is WAY better than the other even though they have never tried both. It is so funny to see the same guys getting on over and over again claiming one way is superior and/or bashing, when they have NEVER tried both??? I have had a couple of customers go both ways with an s366 and 68mm... they all had the same results as you.


Vgt turbos have come a long way... but so has tuning... and non-vgt options... and up pipes... and... and... Well they are both great options.

 

[KCTurbos]

Honestly.....I didn't find it that hard to drive my 64mm or 62mm non vgt turbos. Its for a lot to do with sizing the right non vgt turbo for your truck and getting the tuning spot on. I had to have Eric raise the shift points in my tunes and once he did...I didn't really have any dead spots. Another big thing is being able to control OD with the tow/haul button. Some tuners don't five the customer that option in a tune. So when it goes into OD....truck falls on it face and you're trying to slow down to get it to down shift....then once it does....its right back into OD again falling on its face. I've been there with the non vgt and it has a lot to do with the tuning. I'm actually considering going back to non vgt after running a MTW hybrid, MTW 68mm vgt and now a KC 68mm vgt. I really liked the non vgt a little more.

Maybe you should try a 68mm vgt turbo with good injectors, non-dead cylinder, and a torque converter that actually works :shrug: Those could be skewing your results LOL I know you did not notice them right away but they could have been causing issues for longer than you think. Have you figured out what you are going to do with your truck?



Also that KC 68 of yours is mostly an MTW turbo with a couple of KC tweaks I no longer upgrade other platforms and only build them to our specs because they seem to produce inconsistent results

 

[strokin6L]

Maybe you should try a 68mm vgt turbo with good injectors, non-dead cylinder, and a torque converter that actually works :shrug: Those could be skewing your results LOL I know you did not notice them right away but they could have been causing issues for longer than you think. Have you figured out what you are going to do with your truck?



Also that KC 68 of yours is mostly an MTW turbo with a couple of KC tweaks I no longer upgrade other platforms and only build them to our specs because they seem to produce inconsistent results

I understand that completely charlie. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the turbo that you built for me. There's nothing wrong with my injectors. The one I sent to MPD to have tested supposedly was worn....but with the injector tests that were done on it before hand....it operated absolutely fine. I know what's going on with my truck and what it needs. If I don'/cant sell it by spring....I will fix it and drive it with it still being for sale. The reason for going back to non vgt has nothing to do with bad experiences with larger vgt turbos. I like the way my truck sounded with the non vgt, the boost it had while cruising at highway speed. But most of all....my truck sits for long periods of time. The big problematic thing with vgt turbos that don't get run is that rust forms and the vanes seize up. Again....nothing against your turbo or vgts....i was just considering the idea....nothing set in stone yet.

 

[KCTurbos]

I understand that completely charlie. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the turbo that you built for me. There's nothing wrong with my injectors. The one I sent to MPD to have tested supposedly was worn....but with the injector tests that were done on it before hand....it operated absolutely fine. I know what's going on with my truck and what it needs. If I don'/cant sell it by spring....I will fix it and drive it with it still being for sale. The reason for going back to non vgt has nothing to do with bad experiences with larger vgt turbos. I like the way my truck sounded with the non vgt, the boost it had while cruising at highway speed. But most of all....my truck sits for long periods of time. The big problematic thing with vgt turbos that don't get run is that rust forms and the vanes seize up. Again....nothing against your turbo or vgts....i was just considering the idea....nothing set in stone yet.

Cool... I was just poking the bear oke: I never ended up hearing if you found out exactly what was wrong

 

[6 L chevy eater]

im thinking about tryin an 80 mm sinlge on my truck, the 76 does pretty decent to be what it is

 

[Mike@MPD]

I wouldn't go over a 76

 

[6 L chevy eater]

I wouldn't go over a 76

vaginaoke:

 

[strokin6L]

Cool... I was just poking the bear oke: I never ended up hearing if you found out exactly what was wrong

Sorry bud...I thought I told ya. Low compression on #3 after a manual compression test was done...85lbs was it...where as the others were 400-400+. Then did a leak down test to rule out piston rings for #3 piston. Come to find out...when #3 cylinder was pressurized...air kept pushing out the intake...and very little into the crank case. So we figured out the issue with my truck is either a bent intake valve or bad valve seat for an intake valve on #3 cylinder. I never over rev'd the motor...so I don't really think it's a bent valve, but idk. Either way...there's an intake valve on the passanger side head for #3 cylinder that isn't sealing/closing tight enough to seal when piston is at top dead center that is causing a P0269 code(contribution/balance) and a bad rough idle when up to temp. I actually just drove the truck tonight and put about 15 miles on it haha.