7.3 obs or SD, or just go up to 6.0?

[psduser1]

if you're a reasonable human being with a reasonably decent truck to start with?

not a whole lot... maintain it regularly, and hook it to a scanner/monitor at the first inkling that there's an issue... a stumble, misfire, extended start, etc.

then get on here or another forum, and the members will help you get it lined out.

if you just feel like tearing apart a perfectly good truck? pull the motor, roll mains in it, reseal the bed plate, new rear main, have the heads machined and tested, replace the lifters, replace the oil cooler, put it together with ARP head studs, put it back together with ELC coolant and a bypass coolant filter.

but I'm the kind of guy who waits for there to be SOME issue that warrants actually tearing into one.

if you just put a safe tune on it and drive the SOB, it'll probably be like so many other well maintained stock 6.0's that go 300-400k miles without much issue.


now, if you call up a performance shop and ask them the same question, you're going to get a much more expensive answer than mine...

That may be the most lucid 6.0 related post yet.

 

[jeremiahmercier]

Out of curiosity, what's involved with bulletproofing a 6.0?

Billy T.
[email protected]

Don't you gross pretty heavy with your race hauler? How does your truck seem to handle that weight? I'm new to the possibility of goose neck and fifth wheels, I'm used to the swaying of a pull behind, is a dually not needed for what you pull, and where would it make a difference if you were DRW?

And I am going to be that guy.... If you can afford it I'd go with a KR 6.0.... I can not. Therefore I tow a 40' race hauler around the US grossing at around 24k, Besides the Colorado mountains the truck has more than I have ever needed.... Best of luck, and pull your motor out of your current setup and sell it to me

Same questions to you, and also, I assume no need to worry about the legality of GCWR?

 

[TyCorr]

Dont like drw...

 

[drunk on diesel]

That may be the most lucid 6.0 related post yet.

lol, I'm good for maybe two a year, so don't hold your breath for another one! LOL

 

[jeremiahmercier]

Dont like drw...

Not particularly, but if it's what I'll need, than probably the rout I'll eventually go.

 

[drunk on diesel]

I don't like driving a DRW daily, but for hauling a big TT like that, I'd really want big hips out back

 

[gnxtc2]

Don't you gross pretty heavy with your race hauler? How does your truck seem to handle that weight? I'm new to the possibility of goose neck and fifth wheels, I'm used to the swaying of a pull behind, is a dually not needed for what you pull, and where would it make a difference if you were DRW?

On the DRW vs SRW issue....you have to ask yourself "How much towing am I going to be doing?"

My experience:
- I tow my race trailer long distance (over 8 hours each way) once or twice a year.
- Most of my tows are local, max three hours each way.
- I used my truck as a daily driver since 4/98 until I got my '93 Geo Prizm this past December. A DRW as a daily driver in an urban area would be a PITA.
- I drive around unloaded most of the time, so a DRW in inclement weather (rain, snow, ice) would have been a PITA.

If you go SRW:
You are going to need to know how much weight is going to be on the pin. Once you know that, make sure the tires could handle that weight.

Should you have DRW--> Yes Do you need one--> No.
If you are going to keep your OBS, I would get a DRW. Nothing is going to beat the stability of a DRW towing.

Going with a GN/5ver, you will never know the trailer is back there. You can ride alongside a tractor trailer and there will be no sway. They are easier to back up once you get the hang of it. Towing with one is slightly different than a tag. Once you get the hang of it, you'll never want to go back to a tag.

I added air bags and "C" code rear springs (dually springs) to handle the weight better than the "F" codes. You can read my thread on PSN about them.

If you have any other questions, just ask.

On a side note, I'm looking into purchasing a house on the west coast of Florida for retirement and vacation. Once I retire from NJ (11 years), I'm planning on moving down. Since I won't be in snow anymore, I'm considering a 6.7 DRW. But these new trucks cost the same as a down payment on a house in Florida if I purchase now.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[nossliw]

Don't you gross pretty heavy with your race hauler? How does your truck seem to handle that weight? I'm new to the possibility of goose neck and fifth wheels, I'm used to the swaying of a pull behind, is a dually not needed for what you pull, and where would it make a difference if you were DRW?

Same questions to you, and also, I assume no need to worry about the legality of GCWR?

There are some great points brought up by others of what the truck is truly used for. If I were to have a truck solely for towing… then yes get a DRW rig. Needed? Absolutely not. 80% of the guys with their race rigs are all pulling with SRW trucks. Most of these guys are pulling 40-44’ triple axle toy haulers or 48’-52’ cargo haulers. We drive around the country 15-20,000 miles a year at least with that load behind us. I will say I am only 1 of 2 with an OBS doing the job. My point is of that 80%, 90% DD those trucks as well and that is why they have a SRW rig. There are a few dual, and the rest just have heavy haulers or full blown tractors.

So yes, buy a DRW if all you are going to do is tow with it… I’d simply convert your rig as it to a DRW with SD Axles/suspension if I were you, but I’m cheap. If I wasn’t cheap I wish I had a 7.3 in a 6.7 chassis.

You also mentioned getting used to the sway of the tag pull. Towing my 40’ hauler I get BETTER mpg than I did with a 24’ enclosed tag. In heavy side winds through WY I could never keep it from swaying no matter how I loaded it. Towing a goose or 5er is night and day different. I tow with a little short standard cab, and the truck and trailer feel just as planted as when they are behind my friend CC LB DRW 7.3 SD.

I guess the only reason I’m trying to talk you out of a new truck is because you already sunk the money into that OBS, and to me upgrading to a stock truck and doing it all over again just isn’t worth the effort, but that is because I don’t have the time or money if I were to do it. If you do…go for it!

I also think those 3:55s are a biatch for towing, the 4:10 are great, and the 3:73s are perfect for both worlds…. As long as your tire size doesn’t outgrow your ego!

If you want to get into the legalities of it then here is the best copy paste response I could find…shoot holes in it if you want:
For '99 through '04 PSDs, all F-250, F-350 SRW, and F-350 DRWs have the same 20k GCWR.

For '97 PSDs (and I assume also for '95 and '96 models), With a 4.10 rear end all F-250 , F-350SRW, and F-350 DRWs have the same 20k GCWR. And with a 3.55 rear end, they all have 16k GCWR.

But only the DRW can actually tow a gooseneck or 5er trailer with a combined gross of 20k without exceeding the GVWR of the tow vehicle . Example numbers:

'99 - '04 F-250 CrewCab longbed 4x4 weighs 7,300 wet but empty. Add 700 pounds of driver, passenger, tools, hitch, etc., and it weighs 8,000 pounds before you tie onto the trailer. The GVWR is only 8,800 pounds, so that leaves 800 pounds for max hitch weight before you exceed the GVWR of the tow vehicle. With 17 percent hitch weight, that translates to a 5er grossing 4,706 pounds. That's not much of a 5er. And it's only 12,706 pounds GCW - nowhere near the 20k GCWR.

'99 - '04 F-350 SRW CrewCab longbed 4x4 weighs 7,300 wet but empty. Add 700 pounds of driver, passenger, tools, hitch, etc., and it weighs 8,000 pounds before you tie onto the trailer. The GVWR of the 49-state model is only 9,900 pounds, so that leaves 1,900 pounds for max hitch weight before you exceed the GVWR of the tow vehicle. With 17 percent hitch weight, that translates to a 5er grossing 11,176 pounds. That's more like it - with a GCW of 19,176. But still no 20k.

'99 - '04 F-350 DRW CrewCab longbed 4x4 weighs 7,700 wet but empty. Add 700 pounds of driver, passenger, tools, hitch, etc., and it weighs 8,400 pounds before you tie onto the trailer. The GVWR of the 49-state model is 11,200 pounds, so that leaves 2,800 pounds for max hitch weight before you exceed the GVWR of the tow vehicle. So GVWR is not the limiter on the DRW - the GCWR is. 20k minus 8,400 weight of the tow vehicle leaves a max trailer weight of 11,600 pounds, and a GCW of exactly 20,000 pounds.

The numbers changed a lot with the 2005 models. But we'll leave that for a rainy day.

 

[m j]

I was just dropping my 7.3 build off at the machine shop.
I got to see the sea of good ole 6.0s spread all over his shop.
he did have a 7.3 core collecting dust in the back of the shop.
I am happy some of you have a 6.0 that doesnt cost thousands to keep on the road, I have never seen one on original headgaskets.

 

[swinky]

I was just dropping my 7.3 build off at the machine shop.
I got to see the sea of good ole 6.0s spread all over his shop.
he did have a 7.3 core collecting dust in the back of the shop.
I am happy some of you have a 6.0 that doesnt cost thousands to keep on the road, I have never seen one on original headgaskets.

I've never seen a 7.3 make power on stock rods.

 

[bluedge8]

I've never seen a 7.3 make power on stock rods.

huh? wasn't brian Jelich making like 700+ on a stock bottom end motor? If I recall that motor held until he pulled it for a built motor.

 

[swinky]

huh? wasn't brian Jelich making like 700+ on a stock bottom end motor? If I recall that motor held until he pulled it for a built motor.

You're correct there is a few... But there's also a few 6.0s making over 500 on stock gaskets.

Both great engines in their own way imo

 

[bluedge8]

It's all good, I agree that 6.oooo's make power- would never dispute that. It's the greater potential of risk that will keep me away, plus I'm cheap- the obs is the right truck for me.

 

[OBS-Addiction97]

It's all good, I agree that 6.oooo's make power- would never dispute that. It's the greater potential of risk that will keep me away, plus I'm cheap- the obs is the right truck for me.

That's what I can't get past. I've just heard to many horror story's about 6.osss.

 

[swinky]

That's what I can't get past. I've just heard to many horror story's about 6.osss.

The 6.0 was cheap to get into for me. Paid 11k for a crew cab king ranch. Didn't blow gaskets till I made it blow em.

It's all good, I agree that 6.oooo's make power- would never dispute that. It's the greater potential of risk that will keep me away, plus I'm cheap- the obs is the right truck for me.

 

[drunk on diesel]

That's what I can't get past. I've just heard to many horror story's about 6.osss.

I love all those horror stories... keeps the prices down!

 

[m j]

and made an entire industry profitable cause they arent just stories

 

[Mr.BigOil]

What he said....^^^^

 

[drunk on diesel]

horror stories come from way back when the trucks were new/current...

same with 6.4 horror stories...

6.0's are painfully simple once you know their quirks. They're very predictable for the most part.

I love people with 6.0 horror stories. They sell their trucks the cheapest!

 

[m j]

quirks = head gasket failures, cracked and warped heads.
maintenance = regular head gasket replacement
I didnt see these 6.0 heads racked up in the machine shop back when they were current, I saw them today.

couple of months ago I had to wait on my 7.3 cam because Colt is busy running through a ton of 6.0 cams as they fail all the time

I just wish I was in the 6.0 repair industry raking in the fat stacks