A couple of Electric Fuel System questions

[Tom S]

I got this in a PM but will answer it here to benefit all and generate some discussion.

Looks like I'll probably be doing this soon as I have a fuel leak in the valley on my new to me 97. Couple questions for you if you don't mind...
Do you happen to recall the size of the fittings on the back of the heads?
Do you see any good reason why hard lines would be needed for feeding the rear of the head, or could a new line be made from braided SS fuel line?
You wouldn't happen to have the parts needed for adding a fuse/relay to the factory fuse box would you?

Any tips/advice you may have for doing this would also be greatly appreciated

The fittings on the back of the heads are 1/8" NPT or pipe thread at the head. I switched to -4AN hydraulic at that point. I did so as I did not have the intention of going large with injectors.

I do not think hardlines are a necessity. I enjoy making things and did so in part for that reason. I do like the idea of hard lines around the heat of the turbocharger.

Adding a fuse and relay to the factory fuse box takes some doing. The way to do this is the get a junk fuse box from the wrecking yard. That will supply the parts for the conversion and it will let you practice getting one apart damage free. Once you have one apart you will see how to tap power off the buss bar inside and you will have the parts needed to fill in a blank spot on yours. I got my parts from an old crown vic police car.

 

[superduty4x4]

Thanks Tom. Do you have the a wiring diagram of how your system is set up?

 

[Tom S]

I do not have that unfortunately. I really think that if you want to set up yours like this it will not be too tricky once you get the box apart to see how it works on the other circuits. If you are not really fussy on how it looks under the hood you could do a regular relay like you would for adding other accessories. I just wanted as factory of a look as possible. I might be able to scan in a page from the factory manual that could be helpfull.

 

[superduty4x4]

I'd like to keep it factory looking like you did. Mine will probably be a little different but very close to how yours is set up, I don't know if I'll bother with the Hobbes switch since I'll have an in cab fuel psi gauge but I haven't decided that yet. I need to start getting a list together of what fittings and other stuff I'll need and sourcing the parts.

 

[Tom S]

I would not do the hobbs switch if you have a fuel pressure guage. If I can help let me know.

Tom

 

[PsRumors]

Aren't those my questions Tom???

The fuse / relay box is real easy. It didn't take long at all.

 

[Tom S]

Superduty4x4 sent me that.

 

[superduty4x4]

OK, I figure I may as well use this thread as a place to gather info...
Seems like most are going with 1/4" lines to feed the heads, is the rubber hose at the selector valve 3/8"?
How big of a pain is it going to be to remove the stock fittings from the rear of the heads?
Can the filters for the Stanadyne 100 series filter bases be purchased at a parts store like Napa?

Since the motor is about ready to come out of my 96 I'll probably use it for mock-up so that I can keep my truck on the road while I figure things out since I have nothing else to drive. Any tips anyone might have from their build- things you learned, things you'd do differently, etc would be appreciated.

 

[Tom S]

OK, I figure I may as well use this thread as a place to gather info...
Seems like most are going with 1/4" lines to feed the heads, is the rubber hose at the selector valve 3/8"?
How big of a pain is it going to be to remove the stock fittings from the rear of the heads?
Can the filters for the Stanadyne 100 series filter bases be purchased at a parts store like Napa?

Since the motor is about ready to come out of my 96 I'll probably use it for mock-up so that I can keep my truck on the road while I figure things out since I have nothing else to drive. Any tips anyone might have from their build- things you learned, things you'd do differently, etc would be appreciated.

I do not remember off the top of my head what size the lines are at the selector valve. I can look if you need me too.

I had it easy on my stock fittings as mine was two pieces so I could easily unscrew the one that is close fitting. If you have the one piece fitting you may have to cut it. When tightening these fittings be carefull not to over tighten them and crack the head.

I know when I was researching parts for my build Napa had the Stanadyne filters. It seemed like they had the same part number but they added a number. That was a while back so I am not sure about now. One of my friends just swapped out his Stanadyne on the pressure side as it was leaking. He went to the cast base like I have.

 

[superduty4x4]

I pulled the selector valve off my wrecked truck last night, I believe the lines are 5/16". I'm pretty sure it was printed right on the hose but I'll take a look again before I buy anything.
I think my 97 has the one piece fittings unfortunately but I'll have to look into that further.
I'll call Napa about the filters today if I remember. Which base did your friend swap out- was it the 100 series base? If there's nothing wrong with it I may be interested in it for my prefilter side. I plan on using the cast base post-pump as well.

 

[Tom S]

The Wix 24770 or Napa 4770 Base is what I run on mine as do some others guys on the pressure side. They were on backorder a while back though. I run a Cat 2 micron filter on that base.

 

[StrokerTurbo7.3]

Don't quote me on this but I do believe the fittings on the rear of the heads are different on the 97's than the others. I can't remember but I thought Beans made a mention of that when I bought their kit last year.

 

[superduty4x4]

Don't quote me on this but I do believe the fittings on the rear of the heads are different on the 97's than the others. I can't remember but I thought Beans made a mention of that when I bought their kit last year.

I'm 95% sure you're correct on that one.
So doing a little searching I found the Wix 24770 base for $18.64 online. The same place also has the Fuel Manager filter bases, but there are only 5 micron or 30 micron varieties available, though I did manage to scare up a 10 micron filter that will fit the Stanadyne base.
How critical is it to have a fuel heater in the pre-filter assembly? I think I'll do it just to be safe since winter temps can get pretty cold up here sometimes, and with the filter down on the frame instead of under the hood where residual heat might last longer the chances of gelling fuel are probably higher. So far with the FM100 5 micron prefilter setup, a 10 micron filter to replace the 5 micron, heater element, and the 24770 post-pump base is $130 with shipping.

 

[PsRumors]

The left rear fitting on the '97s is a one piece 90 degree fitting and must be cut to be removed or have the turbo and up-pipes removed.

I opted to bend some hard lines and use the vibralok fittings like the factory did.

 

[superduty4x4]

The left rear fitting on the '97s is a one piece 90 degree fitting and must be cut to be removed or have the turbo and up-pipes removed.

I opted to bend some hard lines and use the vibralok fittings like the factory did.

That's probably the best option it sounds like. Does anyone happen to have a spare fitting, or could I buy one, so I can use my 96 motor for mock-up?

Couple questions if you don't mind- where did you get your Y block, and did you just use a freeze plug in the fuel pump hole? I'm planning on a T4 turbo setup eventually and I may use the fuel pump hole for an oil drain... I guess I should talk to Irate and see what they recommend since I'll likely be using their mount.

 

[PsRumors]

That's probably the best option it sounds like. Does anyone happen to have a spare fitting, or could I buy one, so I can use my 96 motor for mock-up?

Couple questions if you don't mind- where did you get your Y block, and did you just use a freeze plug in the fuel pump hole? I'm planning on a T4 turbo setup eventually and I may use the fuel pump hole for an oil drain... I guess I should talk to Irate and see what they recommend since I'll likely be using their mount.

The Y block came from Summit Racing. I did use a freeze plug for the fuel pump hole but forget the size.

 

[Tom S]

I think the freeze plug size was 7/8 from memory. I would rate the fuel heater as optional. You can pretty easily change what filters fit that Standayne bases with a die grinder or dremel too. I will get you a picture of what I mean tonight. I would be interested in a link to where you were finding stuff online.

I used a airhose 3 way for my Y-block. I had a cast aluminum one at first bit it was porous or something and wanted to leak so I went this route. I like that one in the picture above. Nice workmanship. Cool using the Vibralock fittings.

Tom

 

[superduty4x4]

I think the freeze plug size was 7/8 from memory. I would rate the fuel heater as optional. You can pretty easily change what filters fit that Standayne bases with a die grinder or dremel too. I will get you a picture of what I mean tonight. I would be interested in a link to where you were finding stuff online.

I used a airhose 3 way for my Y-block. I had a cast aluminum one at first bit it was porous or something and wanted to leak so I went this route. I like that one in the picture above. Nice workmanship. Cool using the Vibralock fittings.

Tom

I've looked over your thread on PSN numerous times, is the modification you're talking about the one you show in that thread? Since you live in a cold winter climate also would you feel comfortable without the heater in the prefilter? That would save $50 if it wasn't needed. We can get down to -20°F or less with windchill for several nights in a row around here.
Hopefully admin doesn't get PO'd because they aren't a sponsor but I was finding stuff at very reasonable prices at Discount Fleet Supply. I Googled Wix 24770 and it was the first one that came up in the results.

PsRumors- did you re-use the vibra-lok fittings off the stock lines with new rubber seals or did you buy new fittings?

 

[old man dave]

The last time I ordered replacement Stanadyne FM-100 filter elements from Bean, they supplied what I think are NAPA replacements.

 

[superduty4x4]

The last time I ordered replacement Stanadyne FM-100 filter elements from Bean, they supplied what I think are NAPA replacements.

I was able to find elements for the fuel manager bases at Napa, it took a little digging to find a 10 micron but I did come up with one.
What are guys doing for the lines to return from the heads to the regulator as far as size- 1/4"? 3/8"? Rather than re-use the stock lines I'll probably build new lines to reduce the risk of blowing one.