Added ts 6 pos now cranks but wont start

bad12jr

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If you clean the gold off of the board.

If you didn't pull the pcm and take it apart its hard to clean well or even.
 

The Hosser

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i would start with checking what you installed with the chip and what the pcm looks like. if you cleaned too far or if its just a bad connection. then i would load test the batteries to see if your holding enough cranking amps to run your starter. if pcm is good batteries good and truck runs without the chip then it must be the chip. if your throwing all those codes your pcm might just be confused. might be a good idea to just see if you can reset the pcm and then run the truck without the chip to see if you throw the same codes. then try re installing the chip.
 

The Hosser

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i have never had to do it myself but i think you need to take it to the dealer. or if you have your own programmer i know you can reset it from there. i will get back to you on how to do it, i will try to get a hold of my cousin. hes a ford mechanic, i will tell him what problems you are having and see if he can shed some light on the subject.
 

Tom S

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Time Out, If the truck is cranking really slow like the batteries are dead the issue is there. The PCM has zip to do with it cranking really slow. If you pull the chip and the get a wait to start light the PCM is most likely OK.
 
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Vengeance

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Im completely lost on this one.. the batteries ate fine I just hooked them up in different vehicles and they fired right up.. then I put them back in the truck and they act like they ate dead. . The connection is good I have cleaned the hell out of the terms and its still acting like this. Some of the codes say pcm failure

What vehicle? If it was a gasser, then its not a proper comparison.

Pull the chip, disconnect both negative terminals, then on one of the batteries, take the negative cable and hold it on the postive cable, reconnect both terminals, then try and start.

Make sure you check the #22 fuse under the hood as well, in case your fuel heater shorted out.
 

cbuttre835

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good batteries will read over 13 volts on a digital volt meter.

if you have them load tested make sure they disconnect one and test them individually. don't let the moron at AZ test them with them in parallel.

when handling batteries it is best to disconnect the ground first (on each batt) then the hot (on each batt). after the ground is floated there is no reference if you hit the fender well or something else with the wrench on the hot - no big sparky. When installing install the hot first (on each batt) for the same reason.
 

Fordcowboy

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Time Out, If the truck is cranking really slow like the batteries are dead the issue is there. The PCM has zip to do with it cranking really slow. If you pull the chip and the get a wait to start light the PCM is most likely OK.

I agree. You have everyone pointing you at the worst case scenario, which probably isn't an issue, since you have a WTS light with the chip in and out. There is a slight chance that there could be a PCM/chip issue, but neither of those will cause the truck to crank slow like the batteries are dead. Even if there were a PCM/chip issue, you probably won't be able to correctly diagnose it with bad batteries. If the batteries are dropping low enough when cranking it can do weird things to the PCM having low voltage, and that could be the source off all your codes, other than the normal ones.
 

Mike For Mayor

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Just had the batteries load tested they are both good and the charge on them was at 100%.. I am so confused now...
 

Mike For Mayor

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Yeah this is 7.3 I pulled both batteries out and took them to AZ. The wait to start comes on when the chip is both hooked up and removed. The day before I put this chip in my battery light was flashing when my headlights were off..
 

Mike For Mayor

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Ok so if any of you have the time to possibly give me a call to better help me please pm me and I will respond with my cell #
 

Wackerjr

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BLINKING BATTERY LIGHT = Bad alternator....

jump start that beast and it will fire off... you have to have 12v to the pcm or it will not fire....

your glowplugs draw a **** load of power on startup... jump start it and it should be good.... then have the alt tested... prob not charging sufficiently.
 

The Hosser

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if the truck is not starting off the batteries then it must be the starter. try checking the starter and see if your starter is getting weak. so all of this just started happening after the chip install?
 

The Hosser

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the alternator is only to put a surface charge on the batteries while the truck is running. that would not make any difference in the amps needed for starting.
 
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