akf250
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- Sep 14, 2011
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2008 Ford F-250 CC FX4
Been tuned and cleaned up for 60,000 miles. Trucks at 101,000 Miles. Driver side head started leaking under boost.
Classic 6.4 Power: Spart@n 275 Tune, Exhaust Things Removal, 4 inch turbo back, and AFE air intake.
500ish HP and 0-60 in 5 seconds. Been lovin’ it!
- Cal Tracs traction bars
- EDE transmission (triple disc converter + H/D components)
- Gasser springs, rear block removed, lowered 3 inches.
- Top Gun Customz Dual Steering Stabilizers
Looking to do a reliable 650-700 HP build on stock fuel, and add cold weather, road trip & tow comforts to the truck. I live in Fairbanks, Alaska where it will average negative 40 - 50 below for multiple weeks throughout the winter and our runs to the mountains for play are always 200 + mile tows.
This is my first major engine rebuild I have ever done, and only diesel I have ever torn into. I have done all the work myself besides the transmission and traction bars since I was out of state. This is my first truck, at this point its a hobby not a necessity, and I plan on keeping it around forever. I have zero official diesel certificates, but I work for the largest equipment rental dealer in Alaska and have a wealth of first person knowledge and help at my disposal. I also have all of you! I've been studying PowerStrokeArmy Forums for the past 7 years, I've watched every Youtube video possible on 6.4 rebuilds, and am taking my sweet time on my build as to not rush anything. I am very particular, organized, and will not hesitate to ask for help. That is why I am getting this thread started. The questions are building up and I would love to ask the community what you think.
OK enough about me, here's the build list so far!
- H-11 Studs
- BD Manifolds
- Downpipe Dump TIAL Wastegate
- Bulletproof Diesel Water Pump w/ New Front Cover
- Jr High Power 76.7mm turbos
“EDE Jr. High-Power Turbochargers are bolt-in direct replacement for the OEM setup on 2008-2010 6.4L equipped Ford trucks. See increased boost output, higher horsepower and torque gains, and lower Exhaust Gas Temperature's (EGT). Excellent match for 300+hp tuning files and stock injectors, 60hp, 85hp, or 110hp injectors. Capable of producing around 700 rear wheel horsepower with stock injectors. The High-Pressure turbo is equipped with a Billet 59mm inducer compressor wheel and a larger turbine wheel. The Low-Pressure Turbo (atmosphere) has an exclusive Precision Turbo CEA 76.7mm "Billet" compressor wheel.”
- Stock Injectors w/ Stock HP Fuel Pump
- EDE Fuel Bowl Removal
- Sinister Diesel External Oil Filter with Coolant Filter
- EDE EGR Removal
- Side Action Diesel CCV
- Heavy Duty Oiled Lifters (truly necessary on a 650 HP build?)
- Are new lifter hold downs necessary?
- ATI performance damper, new belt tensioners, and belts (FLUIDAMPR A NO GO?)
- FASS Titanium Series Diesel Fuel Lift Pump 150GPH with coolant ports
- Webasto System mounted in front of fuel tank inside of frame rail
- The Webasto will have a valve manifold so I can close it off for summer.
- It will also run through the lift pump to warm it up on cold days. Anyone have experience with this?
- Perform Wiring for Pre Heating Heated Seats (PDF document)
- New LED backup lights + some Rigid Light Bars up front
Minute 5:30
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bs3uFaSvU3E
- Dual Alternator Kit (QVM Bulletin: Q-160)
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q-160.pdf
- Ridetech Compressor System AirPod 4-Way RidePro
- Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 Rear helper bags + In Coil Front Helper Bags
- Still exploring future full air ride options for the future.
- No Limit Polished Cold Side Kit
- Titan Fuel Tanks Spare Tire Tank
Still not sure about where to go on these items
HEADS & VALVETRAIN
- Heads are completely shot, cracks on every valve both exhaust and intake side. Cracks running into coolant ports. Just too gone to risk it.
- Looking at Kill Devil Diesel Motorsports O-Ringed Fully Built Heads instead of rebuilding some OEMS. They are very knowledgeable, helpful, and I hear they build some of the best 6.4 heads out there.
They are very responsive and have been helping discuss options, needs, and wants for my build. Here is some conversation I had with Kill Devil Diesel:
ME: "Hey do you carry 6.4 heads stock replacement? Price? H-11 studs, stock fuel, and a 76 mm Jr's High Power. Would you recommend any valvetrain updates besides HD lifters along with that build?"
KDDM: "I wouldn’t necessarily recommend HD lifters, we use the OE style lifters and have had no issues, even on our 1500 hp builds. The camshafts in these really aren’t very violent. What HD lifters were you considering?"
ME: "The Heavy Duty Lifters with Axle Oiler from EDE. Without a more advanced cam profile I don't think I need any upgraded valvetrain from OE. Only gonna be a 650 hp build. Agreed?"
KDDM: "To answer your question, we do have 6.4 heads, o-ringed ready to install, $2300. We’re about 2 weeks out currently on shipping 6.4 heads. Even with a stage 2 or 3 cam, they’re really not very aggressive compared to the gas world, not to mention the low 4k rpm rev range makes it easier on everything too. We never see any failures with our supplier for OE style lifters, even on the 4500 rpm stage 2 and 3 Cams. We keep stock, stage 2, and 3 Cams in stock, as well as lifters, pushrods, gaskets, etc. let me know if we can help when the time comes, thanks!"
ME: "When you get o-ringed heads. Do you have to get a matching ring placed on the block side? Also do you heads come with stainless valves or anything different than oem?"
KDDM: "Nope, no other o-rings or receiver grooves are necessary in the block. Just prep the block like you would for any other head gasket job. I tell guys ‘no power tools’, just because some people can get carried away and actually remove metal off of the block with a burnishing pad/wiz wheel, etc. a clean, flat surface, free of any oil/antifreeze is all you need on the block side. The o-rings work great with any of the common gaskets available, Ford, Mahle, Victor, and felpro. Honestly i believe the Felpro is a better gasket, especially for the money.
"As for the valves, the factory valves are just a thinly chrome plated mild steel valve, nothing special at all. The standard valve we use in our heads is a nitrided intake valve, to help prevent guide wear, which is usually worse on the intake on the 6.0/6.4 because of the poor valvetrain geometry. We correct the geometry in our specs too, but the nitrided valves hold up better. For the Performance/racing crowd we do offer stainless intake valves and inconnel exhaust valves but that adds about $1200 dollars to the cost for a set of those. Unless you plan on seeing 2000 degree EGT’s regularly, the standard valves we use should do just fine. Because of the way we set up the heads, we also end up with slightly higher valve spring pressure than stock also. Those are new USA made valves, springs, retainers and seals."
ME: "I like the sounds of all that! Doubt I would need to do stainless in my 650 HP build with no intentions of racing. Thanks for the quick response. I will let you know shortly. Would you recommend chromoly pushrods for any reason on a build like this?"
KDDM: "Around 600-700 hp is where I start to recommend valve spring and pushrod upgrades. Performance springs would add another $300." I don’t recommend upgrading springs without pushrods, the added pressure of the upgraded springs is more than I would want to run on the stock style pushrods. You can upgrade the pushrods without the springs, but not the other way around in my opinion. For your application it’s good insurance.
Valvetrain & Cam
KDDM with an awesome analysis between Stage 1 and 2:
"We stock OE cams with a better lobe profile, same specs for lift and duration but a better shape (basically different numbers at .200” lift), we also stock colt stage 2 and stage 3 cams. The stage 2 is about as versatile of a cam as you could ask for. It eliminates some of the emissions considerations that were built into the factory cam, it has a much smoother lobe profile than the factory cam (doesn’t tear up the lifters as badly). it tows really well, spools turbos a little better than stock cam, and most customers report 1-2 mpg gains. It is actually what we used in the motor we built for Charlie Keeter that won DPC the last 2 years, documented well over 1,000 rwhp, runs 9.80’s in the 1/4 as a full bodied 7k lb truck. Not everyone is building a race truck, I know, but I throw that out there as an example if it’s potential. If someone was looking for gains in a higher rpm range, north of 4k, then I would look at the stage 3, but for 99% of street trucks the 2 is the way to go, from stock to wild. The stage 2 is a drop in camshaft, meaning no valve reliefs in the piston are required, as long as everything else is in spec, meaning as long as piston protrusion, valve recession, etc. Our heads work very well, with updated valve height, and our modified (deeper) valve recession, which buys you a little more piston to valve clearance than stock, and as mentioned, puts the lifter in its proper operating range, which helps with ‘pump up’. If it’s not a racing, nitrous or larger compound turbo application, factory valve springs will work, but again if more than 50-60 PSI is planned, or north of 4k rpm, I would recommend the performance valve springs ($300), as well as the performance pushrods ($300) to take the extra 50% spring pressure from the performance springs. We sell a cam/lifter power package for $1,000, it includes a Colt stage 2 camshaft, OE replacement lifters, ARP crank hub bolts, and the rear gasket/rear main seal (the cam/crank gears engage in the rear of the motor). We’re working on a video now to show how to properly install the camshaft and re-instal the rear hub."
Someone send me a sound video of a cam'd 6.4 and convince me to drop in a cam/lifter power package lol
Ported Intake Manifold
- Is 400 CC's of extra flow really worth the price tag of these bad boys?
- If I re-use stock, do you recommend getting them cleaned out at a machine shop?
http://www.odawgsdiesel.com/product/odawgs-6-4-ported-intake-manifold/
- Still on the fence about getting a new intercooler just because of the cost right now (Mishimoto or Spearco?)
- Mishimoto Radiator Support Brace - Who has experience with this dilemma? My truck is mostly on-road and doesn't see much body flex off-roading. Do I need to worry?
I'm gonna try to make it as pic heavy as possible to keep it interesting once I figure out why I cannot upload photos! Hope you enjoy following along as much I'm enjoying doing the build!
Been tuned and cleaned up for 60,000 miles. Trucks at 101,000 Miles. Driver side head started leaking under boost.
Classic 6.4 Power: Spart@n 275 Tune, Exhaust Things Removal, 4 inch turbo back, and AFE air intake.
500ish HP and 0-60 in 5 seconds. Been lovin’ it!
- Cal Tracs traction bars
- EDE transmission (triple disc converter + H/D components)
- Gasser springs, rear block removed, lowered 3 inches.
- Top Gun Customz Dual Steering Stabilizers
Looking to do a reliable 650-700 HP build on stock fuel, and add cold weather, road trip & tow comforts to the truck. I live in Fairbanks, Alaska where it will average negative 40 - 50 below for multiple weeks throughout the winter and our runs to the mountains for play are always 200 + mile tows.
This is my first major engine rebuild I have ever done, and only diesel I have ever torn into. I have done all the work myself besides the transmission and traction bars since I was out of state. This is my first truck, at this point its a hobby not a necessity, and I plan on keeping it around forever. I have zero official diesel certificates, but I work for the largest equipment rental dealer in Alaska and have a wealth of first person knowledge and help at my disposal. I also have all of you! I've been studying PowerStrokeArmy Forums for the past 7 years, I've watched every Youtube video possible on 6.4 rebuilds, and am taking my sweet time on my build as to not rush anything. I am very particular, organized, and will not hesitate to ask for help. That is why I am getting this thread started. The questions are building up and I would love to ask the community what you think.
OK enough about me, here's the build list so far!
- H-11 Studs
- BD Manifolds
- Downpipe Dump TIAL Wastegate
- Bulletproof Diesel Water Pump w/ New Front Cover
- Jr High Power 76.7mm turbos
“EDE Jr. High-Power Turbochargers are bolt-in direct replacement for the OEM setup on 2008-2010 6.4L equipped Ford trucks. See increased boost output, higher horsepower and torque gains, and lower Exhaust Gas Temperature's (EGT). Excellent match for 300+hp tuning files and stock injectors, 60hp, 85hp, or 110hp injectors. Capable of producing around 700 rear wheel horsepower with stock injectors. The High-Pressure turbo is equipped with a Billet 59mm inducer compressor wheel and a larger turbine wheel. The Low-Pressure Turbo (atmosphere) has an exclusive Precision Turbo CEA 76.7mm "Billet" compressor wheel.”
- Stock Injectors w/ Stock HP Fuel Pump
- EDE Fuel Bowl Removal
- Sinister Diesel External Oil Filter with Coolant Filter
- EDE EGR Removal
- Side Action Diesel CCV
- Heavy Duty Oiled Lifters (truly necessary on a 650 HP build?)
- Are new lifter hold downs necessary?
- ATI performance damper, new belt tensioners, and belts (FLUIDAMPR A NO GO?)
- FASS Titanium Series Diesel Fuel Lift Pump 150GPH with coolant ports
- Webasto System mounted in front of fuel tank inside of frame rail
- The Webasto will have a valve manifold so I can close it off for summer.
- It will also run through the lift pump to warm it up on cold days. Anyone have experience with this?
- Perform Wiring for Pre Heating Heated Seats (PDF document)
- New LED backup lights + some Rigid Light Bars up front
Minute 5:30
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bs3uFaSvU3E
- Dual Alternator Kit (QVM Bulletin: Q-160)
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q-160.pdf
- Ridetech Compressor System AirPod 4-Way RidePro
- Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 Rear helper bags + In Coil Front Helper Bags
- Still exploring future full air ride options for the future.
- No Limit Polished Cold Side Kit
- Titan Fuel Tanks Spare Tire Tank
Still not sure about where to go on these items
HEADS & VALVETRAIN
- Heads are completely shot, cracks on every valve both exhaust and intake side. Cracks running into coolant ports. Just too gone to risk it.
- Looking at Kill Devil Diesel Motorsports O-Ringed Fully Built Heads instead of rebuilding some OEMS. They are very knowledgeable, helpful, and I hear they build some of the best 6.4 heads out there.
They are very responsive and have been helping discuss options, needs, and wants for my build. Here is some conversation I had with Kill Devil Diesel:
ME: "Hey do you carry 6.4 heads stock replacement? Price? H-11 studs, stock fuel, and a 76 mm Jr's High Power. Would you recommend any valvetrain updates besides HD lifters along with that build?"
KDDM: "I wouldn’t necessarily recommend HD lifters, we use the OE style lifters and have had no issues, even on our 1500 hp builds. The camshafts in these really aren’t very violent. What HD lifters were you considering?"
ME: "The Heavy Duty Lifters with Axle Oiler from EDE. Without a more advanced cam profile I don't think I need any upgraded valvetrain from OE. Only gonna be a 650 hp build. Agreed?"
KDDM: "To answer your question, we do have 6.4 heads, o-ringed ready to install, $2300. We’re about 2 weeks out currently on shipping 6.4 heads. Even with a stage 2 or 3 cam, they’re really not very aggressive compared to the gas world, not to mention the low 4k rpm rev range makes it easier on everything too. We never see any failures with our supplier for OE style lifters, even on the 4500 rpm stage 2 and 3 Cams. We keep stock, stage 2, and 3 Cams in stock, as well as lifters, pushrods, gaskets, etc. let me know if we can help when the time comes, thanks!"
ME: "When you get o-ringed heads. Do you have to get a matching ring placed on the block side? Also do you heads come with stainless valves or anything different than oem?"
KDDM: "Nope, no other o-rings or receiver grooves are necessary in the block. Just prep the block like you would for any other head gasket job. I tell guys ‘no power tools’, just because some people can get carried away and actually remove metal off of the block with a burnishing pad/wiz wheel, etc. a clean, flat surface, free of any oil/antifreeze is all you need on the block side. The o-rings work great with any of the common gaskets available, Ford, Mahle, Victor, and felpro. Honestly i believe the Felpro is a better gasket, especially for the money.
"As for the valves, the factory valves are just a thinly chrome plated mild steel valve, nothing special at all. The standard valve we use in our heads is a nitrided intake valve, to help prevent guide wear, which is usually worse on the intake on the 6.0/6.4 because of the poor valvetrain geometry. We correct the geometry in our specs too, but the nitrided valves hold up better. For the Performance/racing crowd we do offer stainless intake valves and inconnel exhaust valves but that adds about $1200 dollars to the cost for a set of those. Unless you plan on seeing 2000 degree EGT’s regularly, the standard valves we use should do just fine. Because of the way we set up the heads, we also end up with slightly higher valve spring pressure than stock also. Those are new USA made valves, springs, retainers and seals."
ME: "I like the sounds of all that! Doubt I would need to do stainless in my 650 HP build with no intentions of racing. Thanks for the quick response. I will let you know shortly. Would you recommend chromoly pushrods for any reason on a build like this?"
KDDM: "Around 600-700 hp is where I start to recommend valve spring and pushrod upgrades. Performance springs would add another $300." I don’t recommend upgrading springs without pushrods, the added pressure of the upgraded springs is more than I would want to run on the stock style pushrods. You can upgrade the pushrods without the springs, but not the other way around in my opinion. For your application it’s good insurance.
Valvetrain & Cam
KDDM with an awesome analysis between Stage 1 and 2:
"We stock OE cams with a better lobe profile, same specs for lift and duration but a better shape (basically different numbers at .200” lift), we also stock colt stage 2 and stage 3 cams. The stage 2 is about as versatile of a cam as you could ask for. It eliminates some of the emissions considerations that were built into the factory cam, it has a much smoother lobe profile than the factory cam (doesn’t tear up the lifters as badly). it tows really well, spools turbos a little better than stock cam, and most customers report 1-2 mpg gains. It is actually what we used in the motor we built for Charlie Keeter that won DPC the last 2 years, documented well over 1,000 rwhp, runs 9.80’s in the 1/4 as a full bodied 7k lb truck. Not everyone is building a race truck, I know, but I throw that out there as an example if it’s potential. If someone was looking for gains in a higher rpm range, north of 4k, then I would look at the stage 3, but for 99% of street trucks the 2 is the way to go, from stock to wild. The stage 2 is a drop in camshaft, meaning no valve reliefs in the piston are required, as long as everything else is in spec, meaning as long as piston protrusion, valve recession, etc. Our heads work very well, with updated valve height, and our modified (deeper) valve recession, which buys you a little more piston to valve clearance than stock, and as mentioned, puts the lifter in its proper operating range, which helps with ‘pump up’. If it’s not a racing, nitrous or larger compound turbo application, factory valve springs will work, but again if more than 50-60 PSI is planned, or north of 4k rpm, I would recommend the performance valve springs ($300), as well as the performance pushrods ($300) to take the extra 50% spring pressure from the performance springs. We sell a cam/lifter power package for $1,000, it includes a Colt stage 2 camshaft, OE replacement lifters, ARP crank hub bolts, and the rear gasket/rear main seal (the cam/crank gears engage in the rear of the motor). We’re working on a video now to show how to properly install the camshaft and re-instal the rear hub."
Someone send me a sound video of a cam'd 6.4 and convince me to drop in a cam/lifter power package lol
Ported Intake Manifold
- Is 400 CC's of extra flow really worth the price tag of these bad boys?
- If I re-use stock, do you recommend getting them cleaned out at a machine shop?
http://www.odawgsdiesel.com/product/odawgs-6-4-ported-intake-manifold/
- Still on the fence about getting a new intercooler just because of the cost right now (Mishimoto or Spearco?)
- Mishimoto Radiator Support Brace - Who has experience with this dilemma? My truck is mostly on-road and doesn't see much body flex off-roading. Do I need to worry?
I'm gonna try to make it as pic heavy as possible to keep it interesting once I figure out why I cannot upload photos! Hope you enjoy following along as much I'm enjoying doing the build!
