OSCS
New member
Making me want to buy a short block and build it in the garage.. Anyone have a line on one?
All I got to say..
- Thread starter MadDiesel73
- Start date
MadDiesel73
New member
Yea I was stupid for not Putting rods in it the first time but at the time I was planning on keeping it at 400-500hp 250/100 and 38r forever and getting a 6.4 to play with we all know how these things work.. I rolled the dice and Paid the price.. From now on if any one asks, over 500hp gets aftermarket rods.
Needless to say It's gonna hurt for the next few months but I cant wait to get it back with a brand new billet rod block/ dual pumps/400-200's and compounds.
Needless to say It's gonna hurt for the next few months but I cant wait to get it back with a brand new billet rod block/ dual pumps/400-200's and compounds.
pitching a rod isn't funny...but if someone was insinuating that a dirty bolt hole cracked the block...annnnd that led to a rod failure...then that would be funny.
haven't read every post in this thread...so maybe no one was insinuating that...
Powerstroked162
On Da Juice
Ahhh.... Better catch up on the two threads gramps 
oke:
Blocks crack from the pan jobs done improperly all to often
oke:Blocks crack from the pan jobs done improperly all to often
Ahhh.... Better catch up on the two threads gramps
Blocks crack from the pan jobs done improperly all to often
mmmkay.
do they usually have dents from the inside out also?
Powerstroked162
On Da Juice
Lol
You think block cracking doesn't happen from improper installation and prep, I've personally seen it a couple times with my own eyes and others have experienced it as well. Not gonna argue with you. Stress fractures in the block certainly can't help with the life of an engine seeing power and anybody who thinks otherwise is a fool. Never said it was what bent the rod. Hope that clears up the confusion....
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MadDiesel73
New member
What's everyones personal opinion on Rods I've found Crowers $2695 r&r's for $2500 or carillo pro-h's for $2394 in stock from different suppliers. Guy from r&r mentioned he doesn't like the h-beam design for this application and has herd a few carillos breaking.. Because I was going to go with them for the money. But I don't know if that's bs or not havnt found anything on the webz.
ParkerFly
Member
Most people consider Crowers the best of those three. Whatever way you go, all of those are way stronger than stock forged rods.
Hypermax makes a forged rod that is probably stronger than any of those, but costs more and is heavier.
Hypermax makes a forged rod that is probably stronger than any of those, but costs more and is heavier.
MadDiesel73
New member
Well after this I want the best rods out.. Anyone know the weight on a stock forged rod?
V-Ref
Active member
I'm "new" here...does Absolute Performance build motors? Did you build your OBS 7.3 truck or did a shop? Have you/yourself removed/reinstalled a 7.3 oil pan?
Looking to start a motor build, and want to know who is giving what advice.
This oil pan rail fracture.....seems like an important detail.
Thanks.
PowerstrokeJunkie
Active member
All you really have to do, is blow the pan bolt holes out with compressed air to make sure theres no goopy sh!t down in the holes, make sure there is no silicone on the tip of the bolt, and when you put the pan on it doesnt spooge out over the bolt holes and then go in the thread as you put a bolt in. simple :shrug:
ParkerFly
Member
:whs: It's basic stuff that people just overlook. Pay a little extra attention to it and you won't have any problems.
MadDiesel73
New member
Fwiw I did try very hard to make sure silicone didn't get in the holes or on the bolts. By staring all of them And then going around and putting them In 1/8 -1/4" at a time untill snug.
Does 1471 grams sound right for the weight of a stock forged rod?
Does 1471 grams sound right for the weight of a stock forged rod?
Powerstroked162
On Da Juice
I've done a thing or two with the 7.3
Only motor I didn't build was the WOP race motor. I did it a couple times prior and lost interest in doing it in my free time so I paid the best to get it done for me. So to answer your question, I am giving the advice aaaaaaaand I'm not the only one whose saying the same thing. Engine upside down on a stand, cleaned properly and the new pan siliconed correctly and you should not have any issues. Pan job attempted with the engine right side up, in frame with the crossmember, axle, etc., in your way... probably not gonna go so well. It *could* but it's a big risk. I also feel like I should mention that there are a brave few who have attempted to remove all those things from the equation, including the crossmember, and still couldn't get it done right in-frame. That particular truck ended up having a trashed block on a 30k build and needed to be re-built when it was all said and done. Truck looks really nice too with the frame all hacked to **** and bolts put back in the crossmember lol. Lazy should not be an option folks. Really shouldn't be this difficult to grasp
Powerstroked162
On Da Juice
Im not ragging on the OP either. Im just saying in general. Couple people already touched on how simple it really is to do. Shouldn't scare people to do it the right way
MadDiesel73
New member
Yes pull the engine!!! Anyone have weight specs on stock forged Rods?
Powerstroked162
On Da Juice
Lol, I'll stop. Let me see if I can dig up that info for you. I guess I missed along the way why the stock rod weight was important?..
Powerstroked162
On Da Juice
Crower: 1445.00g each or 25.43 lbs for a set of eight
Stock 7.3 Forged: 1429.00g each or 25.15 lbs for a set of eight
Cunningham: 1388.00g each or 24.43 lbs for a set of eight
R&R: 1305.00g each or 22.97 lbs for a set of eight
Stock 7.3 Forged: 1429.00g each or 25.15 lbs for a set of eight
Cunningham: 1388.00g each or 24.43 lbs for a set of eight
R&R: 1305.00g each or 22.97 lbs for a set of eight
