Completely stumped!

Derek@Vision Diesel

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Okay I think i have checked just about everything I can think of.

Truck has a slightly longer crank time, warm and cold, ever since i went to big oil. Talked to the owner of the pumps previously and he never had any issue, so i dont believe it has anything to do with the pumps.

I have changed IPR and ICP, same problem.

Truck has probably 1000 miles on it and the problem has not changed at all. Takes 4-5 seconds to fire when its cold and 2-3 when warm. It used to fire right off pretty much right away whether hot or cold.


Could this be an injector issue?

I have AE and a scan gauge and the ICP is just flat out not coming up fast enough, it slowly rises to 350-400 then fires off.
 

Derek@Vision Diesel

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Did your batteries take a dump when you swapped pumps??

They are only 3 months old, and ive had 2 differnet alternators on the truck in that time period since ive had the pumps.

I was noticing they are only charging at like 12.9 at an idle, which i know is too low. The alternator on the truck now is the stock one, and its not perfect, but it does a good enough job i think.
 

Layson

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I would go get your batteries all checked out. Make sure they disconnect them when they are tested. I have had bad brand new batteries before. One will be messed up and it screws up the other one and finally takes the alternator as well.
 

Layson

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How is your LPOP? Maybe your pumps are sucking the reservoir dry... I doubt it, but you never know..
 

Derek@Vision Diesel

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How is your LPOP? Maybe your pumps are sucking the reservoir dry... I doubt it, but you never know..

That could be possible, not really sure how to check LPOP. The gauge jumps to normal about 2 or 3 seconds after the truck fires up.

I was tihnking the same thing, but is there a easy way to check that?
 

Layson

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Put a gauge on the reservoir and see what it reads when you start it up...
 
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4 to 5 seconds id def to long esp with big oil.my truck with a stealth you bump the key and it fires off.either its bleeding down some how or your lpop is not suppling enough oil. a low pressure gauge will give you a better idea of whats going on exaactly.
 

Derek@Vision Diesel

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So to test low pressure i basically just want to see pressure at the resevoir right?

So to do so i can use one of the 2 holes on top of the resevoir and find a 0-60psi gauge and thread it in there, as soon as i bump the starter what should i be seeing?
 

Derek@Vision Diesel

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A healthy LPOP should not go lower than 20PSI at idle IMO, mine seems healthy at 50PSI idle and 75PSI with the RPM's up.
Yours idles at 50psi? Where are you taking that reading, i really need to get a reading on mine
and how is the cranking speed? Is it whipping right over or does it kind of mosey?

No it spins plenty fast, nothing has changed there. Got a brand new start/new batteries...
 

Derek@Vision Diesel

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Any possibility of this being IDM related? Just a random thought i had.

Although the fact that ICP raises slowly doesnt really help that theory much.

I am dealing with another small issue and im going to swap back to a stock IDM to see if that helps anything, maybe kill two birds with one stone?
 

Clem1226

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Although the fact that ICP raises slowly doesnt really help that theory much.

?

I think that is what I would concentrate on and avoid any other rabbit holes ( for now).

lpop, injector orings, injectors....what kind of condition is the oil in?
 

BigAlsPSD

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There is a test port next oil filter base, you could install a gauge, or some for temporary purposes, use the plug on top of the reservoir for the HPOP.
 

Derek@Vision Diesel

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I am going to get a test gauge and check LPOP for now. Once ive eliminated that the injectors are going back to CASS for a full going through and possibly some more machining.
Got my first overboost code today, so i ordered the fooler just so i KNOW for a fact that isnt the issue either.

I think im battling a couple different small issues here so eliminating the cheap things hopefully will get rid of a few of them.
 

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