Completely stumped!
- Thread starter Derek@Vision Diesel
- Start date
Derek@Vision Diesel
New member
I can pull the valve covers, i just figure i dont need to pull them twice. On thursday i am going swap the sticks, so the valve covers will be off. So i will fire the truck up and look for something unusual then!
Derek@Vision Diesel
New member
Just had a crazy thought to run by someone....
Could swapping all my parts onto a 99 block/heads change anything? Anything with the front cover or anything like that?
Maybe sounds crazy, but i know there are tiny little difference's in the heads/front cover from the early 7.3s to the late ones. I went from a 96 motor to the 99 motor that im running now
Could swapping all my parts onto a 99 block/heads change anything? Anything with the front cover or anything like that?
Maybe sounds crazy, but i know there are tiny little difference's in the heads/front cover from the early 7.3s to the late ones. I went from a 96 motor to the 99 motor that im running now
Curtis@Vision Diesel
New member
If you need me to I can go grab that stock pump and send it to you
HaysKSFirefighter
New member
Shouldnt, all the major parts are the same, hpop, plenums, and front cover being different but none of these would cause your issue. Try this, after you get it started when its cold, shut it off and start it right back up again, if it starts right up, that could point to a leak down issues, since you aren't giving the oil any time to go anywhere it starts right up. My money is on it being the pump or ipr though...when I had an injector issue it wouldn't start when hot at all, the video posted was a great example of a torn oring.
Derek@Vision Diesel
New member
The heads have different webbing in them and the front covers/pick up tube are different on newer motors. Just wondering if the front cover had anything in the world to do with the HPOP.
I know if i fire it up, shut it down and wait a minute it still has extended crank. Ive never shut it down and fired it RIGHT back up.... ill try that
Derek@Vision Diesel
New member
Okay back to this.... Since i last posted i have:
1. Installed a new set of injectors that i know 100% are working correctly
2. Changed the oil
3. Moved where my IPR dumps, so its dumping into the front cover instead of right back into the resevoir (trying to lower oil temps)
4. installed a boost fooler
I believe my rough idle/overall running issue is oil temp related. Since i moved the IPR dump i havent seen temps over 200, and before i could easily see 215 and once it was up there it wouldnt come back down. Now the temps go up when driving hard but come back down also.
Seems like its still not running great though. And its tough to tell if the extended start is still there because i havent started the truck very many times without changing something. Im going to go fire it up in 2 hours and see what happens. RPMs at idle fluctuate a tiny bit, i can see the tach move ever so slightly and its noticeable in the cab too.
Im just lost as to what could be the issue at this point
1. Installed a new set of injectors that i know 100% are working correctly
2. Changed the oil
3. Moved where my IPR dumps, so its dumping into the front cover instead of right back into the resevoir (trying to lower oil temps)
4. installed a boost fooler
I believe my rough idle/overall running issue is oil temp related. Since i moved the IPR dump i havent seen temps over 200, and before i could easily see 215 and once it was up there it wouldnt come back down. Now the temps go up when driving hard but come back down also.
Seems like its still not running great though. And its tough to tell if the extended start is still there because i havent started the truck very many times without changing something. Im going to go fire it up in 2 hours and see what happens. RPMs at idle fluctuate a tiny bit, i can see the tach move ever so slightly and its noticeable in the cab too.
Im just lost as to what could be the issue at this point
Big Bore
Active member
Just to let you guys know, 6500ft is not high altitude LOL
One problem I never had with Termies was long crank times, even when they were leaking.
Swapping a SD long block into your truck wouldn't make one bit of difference.
Pretty interesting problem. I'm beginning to wonder if the pump(s) might not be weak. If you can get a spare and send those to Joey and get them checked it might be worth it.
One problem I never had with Termies was long crank times, even when they were leaking.
Swapping a SD long block into your truck wouldn't make one bit of difference.
Pretty interesting problem. I'm beginning to wonder if the pump(s) might not be weak. If you can get a spare and send those to Joey and get them checked it might be worth it.
Derek@Vision Diesel
New member
The only thing about that is.... Joey just had these pumps and totally went through and updated them. PLUS the previous owner never had one bit of long crank issues.
Could a weak LPOP cause an extended start?
Big Bore
Active member
Didn't you say the reservoir isn't draining down? I doubt that is your issue.
What CPS do you have?
Derek@Vision Diesel
New member
The CPS i am running was just the one that came in this block, i havent touched it. Clay is sending me a spare CPS to try out, so i can eliminate that soon enough.
Could the CPS really be the issue? I figured i was doing it for no reason
Big Bore
Active member
Just something that occurred to me. Easy to eliminate. Batteries good right?
Derek@Vision Diesel
New member
Had the batteries checked...
One thing i did notice, im only at like 13 volts at an idle after driving around. Firing it up in the morning and letting it set there and idle its like 12.5 volts
I know the batteries are perfect, but the alternator i believe is a little weak. But the fact that when i shut it down its at 13 volts i wouldnt think thats causing an issue
Derek@Vision Diesel
New member
If im actually on the pedal its like 13.5 max.... but at idle it drops to 13.0.
Have a brand new alternator in the tool box, i installed it (before had my scan gauge) and it caused a battery light.
I will throw it back on tomorrow and see what that changes....
could i just swap the regulators you think?
I have changed so many alts over the years I just go to Napa and get another one.
I can swap one in less then 15 minutes in the Napa parking lot...:blah:
I dont think this is your issue... I do believe you should remove your pumps and throw a stock anything back in and see if the issue goes away. Even a stock 15* pump will tell you 99.9% of what you want to know.
Derek@Vision Diesel
New member
I might throw the alternator anyway and see why my battery light was coming on, its pretty simple!
Removing these pumps and replacing with a stock one is NOT on the top of my list right now, ive got live tuning coming up in 3 weeks haha
Nothing like live tuning with a possable broken part...
Derek@Vision Diesel
New member
Yeah your telling me... But....
once its running the pumps do great, i can hold 3900 psi with respectable DC if i really want to.
Big Bore
Active member
Who's tunes?
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