coolant leaking from head stud nut

psduser1 · Jul 28, 2014

DocBar said:
This might have nothing to do with Lincoln's issues, but I'm a big believer in sleeving the cylinders. There are cracks that magna-fluxing can't find. Cheap insurance, imho. Going .xxx over in a diesel just isn't the same as in a gasser. I'd rather stay closer to stock compression. Just my .02 worth.

Sonic testing is a better bet, and I agree with this statement in principle.

Oh yeah, I've got a solid 200s block , 95 model yr, if you do decide to do something, lincolnlocker. If that doesn't do it for you, I can help you out with pretty much any year. At a good! price, also.

lincolnlocker · Jul 28, 2014

psduser1 said:
Sonic testing is a better bet, and I agree with this statement in principle.

Oh yeah, I've got a solid 200s block , 95 model yr, if you do decide to do something, lincolnlocker. If that doesn't do it for you, I can help you out with pretty much any year. At a good! price, also.

thanks! ill keep that in mind when I figure out when im gonna tewr into it.. any of them punched 30 over by chance? lol..

4.0l sahara · Jul 28, 2014

For the time being pull the stud, clean the hole and put liquid Teflon on the bottom and reinstall.

Arisley · Jul 28, 2014

Won't liquid anything in there promote hydrolocking a hole and cracking the already cracked block worse?

lincolnlocker · Jul 28, 2014

4.0l sahara said:
For the time being pull the stud, clean the hole and put liquid Teflon on the bottom and reinstall.

is that the same as the pipe paste? I always thought that teflon was for lube and not actually a sealant? what about that tacky chit that some guys put around the freeze plugs and doesnt harden?

4.0l sahara · Jul 28, 2014

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...rmatex-high-performance-thread-sealant-detail

4.0l sahara · Jul 28, 2014

Arisley said:
Won't liquid anything in there promote hydrolocking a hole and cracking the already cracked block worse?

Only if u get it under the stud.

lincolnlocker · Jul 28, 2014

Arisley said:
Won't liquid anything in there promote hydrolocking a hole and cracking the already cracked block worse?

thats another thought I had too..

4.0l sahara said:
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...rmatex-high-performance-thread-sealant-detail

that stuff stays pliable/pasty right? wont harden and act like loctite?

4.0l sahara said:
Only if u get it under the stud.

wonder if that is what may have caused it to begin with...

taterthedog · Jul 28, 2014

lincolnlocker said:
what about that tacky chit that some guys put around the freeze plugs and doesnt harden?

What was that stuff called? I remember it from trade school. Smelled like Vapo-rub or something.

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lincolnlocker · Jul 28, 2014

taterthedog said:
What was that stuff called? I remember it from trade school. Smelled like Vapo-rub or something.

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high tack aviation sealant is one I know some guys use and I think regular ole permatex #1 or #2....

4.0l sahara · Jul 28, 2014

No it won't act like loctite

taterthedog · Jul 28, 2014

lincolnlocker said:
high tack aviation sealant is one I know some guys use and I think regular ole permatex #1 or #2....

Yep. Aviation sealant. That's what it was called.

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lincolnlocker · Jul 29, 2014

4.0l sahara said:
No it won't act like loctite

I guess ill give it a whirl..

golfer · Jul 29, 2014

DocBar said:
...but I'm a big believer in sleeving the cylinders. I'd rather stay closer to stock compression. Just my .02 worth.

going from a std bore to a .040 bore would have very, very small effect on compression ratio...like tenths of a point.

you could have more of a change by increasing or decreasing your valve recesses (from stock)...among other things.

lincolnlocker · Jul 29, 2014

4.0l sahara said:
For the time being pull the stud, clean the hole and put liquid Teflon on the bottom and reinstall.

whats the best way to do this? drain coolant, pull stud, blow out hole, apply sealant above the botom thread, spin in finger tight, put nut on and tq to arp spec, whatever that is anyway?

webb06 · Jul 29, 2014

lincolnlocker said:
whats the best way to do this? drain coolant, pull stud, blow out hole, apply sealant above the botom thread, spin in finger tight, put nut on and tq to arp spec, whatever that is anyway?

No need to drain coolant. It probably won't leak through the crack until there is pressure from the coolant heat. Otherwise do just what you said. Clean out the hole with brake clean or starting fluid and blow out with shop air