coolant leaking from head stud nut

[Stroked777]

Damn man. I'm subbing to see what you find out. Hopefully it's just the hg

 

[lincolnlocker]

Damn man. I'm subbing to see what you find out. Hopefully it's just the hg

I am thinking it is. its pooched out on the outside back corner too. dont knkw if you can tell but that is a good 1/4 inch of gasket sticking out right there.

live life full throttle

 

[gnxtc2]

That motor is pretty dirty for a recent rebuild

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[lincolnlocker]

That motor is pretty dirty for a recent rebuild

Billy T.
[email protected]

I live on dirt roads and when coolant and dust mix, it makes dirty parts.

live life full throttle

 

[gnxtc2]

Not an excuse....keep it clean

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[golfer]

160/100's with fresh stock headgaskets and arp studs?

FWIW, we wouldn't warranty HG failure with 100% nozzles...not on a fresh build.

stock gaskets even with studs on a newly rebuilt engine are not reliable above 35psi.

take a 100k mile engine, do studs one at a time (bolt out, stud in, etc.) and it'll hold 60psi easily.

my guess is that you did pop a HG..and the coolant is seeping over to the threads.

you'll have the same issue(s) with another set of stock gaskets unless you drive it like a pansy for 10k miles, then do a hot retorque. (not advising it, as we don't install/run ARP's for head studs..not sure what the protocol is for those fasteners)

The fresh gaskets just have zero mechanical bond with the block/head...no heating/cooling cycles to get adhesion...

just my opinion.

 

[Arisley]

Good to know. So it might be best to put some stock injectors in for the first 10K. Pull injectors and do a retorque, and install good injectors?

Is there a better gasket option?

 

[Stroked777]

160/100's with fresh stock headgaskets and arp studs?

FWIW, we wouldn't warranty HG failure with 100% nozzles...not on a fresh build.

stock gaskets even with studs on a newly rebuilt engine are not reliable above 35psi.

take a 100k mile engine, do studs one at a time (bolt out, stud in, etc.) and it'll hold 60psi easily.

my guess is that you did pop a HG..and the coolant is seeping over to the threads.

you'll have the same issue(s) with another set of stock gaskets unless you drive it like a pansy for 10k miles, then do a hot retorque. (not advising it, as we don't install/run ARP's for head studs..not sure what the protocol is for those fasteners)

The fresh gaskets just have zero mechanical bond with the block/head...no heating/cooling cycles to get adhesion...

just my opinion.

I never knew the hg could be so finky. Is that just the 7.3s with studs and stock gasket? Could it be fixed with after market gaskets? Any reason this doesn't happen with 6.0s and 6.4s? (Only coolant leaking I hear is from cracked blocks)

 

[gnxtc2]

Nothing beats a factory HG clamp. The factory (any factory) uses a special jig that fastens all the fasteners in one shot.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[lincolnlocker]

Not an excuse....keep it clean

Billy T.
[email protected]

yeah right

160/100's with fresh stock headgaskets and arp studs?

FWIW, we wouldn't warranty HG failure with 100% nozzles...not on a fresh build.

stock gaskets even with studs on a newly rebuilt engine are not reliable above 35psi.

take a 100k mile engine, do studs one at a time (bolt out, stud in, etc.) and it'll hold 60psi easily.

my guess is that you did pop a HG..and the coolant is seeping over to the threads.

you'll have the same issue(s) with another set of stock gaskets unless you drive it like a pansy for 10k miles, then do a hot retorque. (not advising it, as we don't install/run ARP's for head studs..not sure what the protocol is for those fasteners)

The fresh gaskets just have zero mechanical bond with the block/head...no heating/cooling cycles to get adhesion...

just my opinion.

thanks for the heads up sir! i am not worried about warranty issues as there wasnt a warranty to begin with, so no biggy there... are there any better alternatives? other then a 10k cure cycle? this truck is no longer a dd so it would be hard to rack up 10k miles.. 36 to 38 psi of boost is all this setup runs so when I pull it apart, put new gaslets in, ill gate it less then 35 psi with hopes of it holding.

Good to know. So it might be best to put some stock injectors in for the first 10K. Pull injectors and do a retorque, and install good injectors?

Is there a better gasket option?

whs^^^

live life full throttle

 

[TyCorr]

yeah right


thanks for the heads up sir! i am not worried about warranty issues as there wasnt a warranty to begin with, so no biggy there... are there any better alternatives? other then a 10k cure cycle? this truck is no longer a dd so it would be hard to rack up 10k miles.. 36 to 38 psi of boost is all this setup runs so when I pull it apart, put new gaslets in, ill gate it less then 35 psi with hopes of it holding.

whs^^^

live life full throttle

Be cheap to have stock nozzles put on and retune it. Or have it tuned to 300hp as is and drive it until its good to go.

 

[lincolnlocker]

Be cheap to have stock nozzles put on and retune it. Or have it tuned to 300hp as is and drive it until its good to go.

prolly not. gotta be a way around it.

live life full throttle

 

[TyCorr]

prolly not. gotta be a way around it.

live life full throttle

What are you talking about? A way around decreasing the stress you subject your virgin headgaskets to?

 

[lincolnlocker]

What are you talking about? A way around decreasing the stress you subject your virgin headgaskets to?

better gaskets, studs with more clamping strength, fire rings, or all the above. sounds like limiting boost is best though.

live life full throttle

 

[Dmstrucks02]

Be cheap to have stock nozzles put on and retune it. Or have it tuned to 300hp as is and drive it until its good to go.

better gaskets, studs with more clamping strength, fire rings, or all the above. sounds like limiting boost is best though.

live life full throttle

I think that's what he is getting at here
Limit boost via tuning until 10k miles or whatever you choose

 

[gnxtc2]

CBN the block and head surfaces. Cometic MLS HGs with each layer sprayed with Hylomar or Copper Coat.

If you decide on fire rings, who ever machines the motor better be spot on otherwise you will have issues.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[TARM]

Do not see a reason to swap injectors just have the tuner make a stock tune and confirm with boost gauge keeping it in the teens to low 20s.

 

[TyCorr]

Do not see a reason to swap injectors just have the tuner make a stock tune and confirm with boost gauge keeping it in the teens to low 20s.

No. But if the heads have to come off anyway. They go to a shop you have to remove the injectors anyway.

Theres 50 ways to skin a cat. I was just suggesting approaches to achieveing the criteria Dave listed since he is the most knowledgeable and people are giving advice in spite of what he said.

 

[TARM]

True but most people turn in there stock injectors when they buy perf and that would mean 300 or so to get someones pull off and how good are they going to be running?

 

[lincolnlocker]

for the record, I, like most everyone on here with a 6 position chip, have a stock tune. AND I can adjust my waste gate from 28ish to 38ish psi, even in my hot tune.so that wont be a problem.

live life full throttle