AllanB
New member
Bet I know where this is going. Was the first thing to cross my mind when I read all thiis.
Cracked Block
- Thread starter Trav-O
- Start date
Bet I know where this is going. Was the first thing to cross my mind when I read all thiis.
Silversquirrel
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- Feb 21, 2013
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Add another to the list! Just pulled my pan last night with the engine still in truck and finally have an answer to this nightmare! I have spent the last 8 months chasing a small water leak. This all started shortly after the ARP studs were put in and torqued to 325. The funny thing is that at the time ARP stated to torque them 325 when they were installed last April. Now when you go to their website and they state 275. Anybody have any idea why they would have dropped this value by 50ft lbs.
2008 F450 62,000miles
Spartan
AFE turbo back
Banks intake
Airdog II
I don't hotrod it around so this is very frustrating!http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/images/smilies/wtf.gif
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SEABEE08FX4
New member
They dropped the final pass torque due to a change in lube.
78f100
Active member
I know this thread is a little old but You can add another to the list. I thought my front cover was my problem but not so lucky. I pressurized the cooling system and removed the drivers vc. 2nd stud from the back top was seeping coolant from the hole up the stud. I tried teflon paste with no luck.
I started with a reman block so holes were perfectly clean, installed the elite/a1 studs by the book. I have no way of knowing if the block was already like that when I got it or if the stud caused it. I am good friends with the Ford parts manager, he is gonna get me a new short block but it still sucks I have to change it all out again.
I started with a reman block so holes were perfectly clean, installed the elite/a1 studs by the book. I have no way of knowing if the block was already like that when I got it or if the stud caused it. I am good friends with the Ford parts manager, he is gonna get me a new short block but it still sucks I have to change it all out again.
FN74
New member
50ft-lbs seems like a lot based on just Lube change. I just got done installing my studs a few weeks ago in what has to be a Job 0(2006) motor and the instructions clearly read 275.
How soon after studding have these leaks shown up?
Have any 6.0 blocks had this problem? Is it possible that upping the bolt size for the 6.4 is not leaving enough steel to support the additional torque value of the bigger bolt?
Erikclaw
Active member
Just read this thread, we had my block filled and epoxied like the way Swamps described it in the hopes to alleviate the possibility of this crack appearing.
StockCar#10
Member
Eric any pictures of that process
Mine will be getting the exact same thing. No coolant will be flowing through the block were the studs screw into the block. It will be filled with hard block up to that point.
keep us posted on how this works...
I have some reservations about the thermal differential from one side of the cyl bore(s) to the other causing bore distortion and lack of piston ring sealing. (assuming you are just filling more (or only) on the 'valley' side of the cylinders.
another option we will be exploring will be these:
http://fulltorque.com/inserts.htm
we've used these in the past (not as a repair), but to allow for installation of larger diameter studs..ie taking a 7.3L block from 12mm studs to 14mm studs...no problems (just lots of machine work & labor)
78f100
Active member
My buddy was telling me about home Cat sealant used on their engines where a stud enters the water jacket. He is supposed to get me some and says it will not leak. If the stuff i used doesn't hold I am gonna give the cat stuff a try. You guys may already know what he is talking about.
78f100
Active member
I think so, he also said some other big diesel company he worked for had some that was green. He did say its tough to get the bolts out after use.
SSpeeDEMONSS
New member
I think I have seen the blue Cat stuff used on intakes on milled cummins heads. If it's the same stuff it seals really good.
Garrett
probably getting paid at work to post this from my bionic
Garrett
probably getting paid at work to post this from my bionic
More than likely its the blue stuff. Loctite makes it its really good. We seal up axle housings, intakes, pinion noses, oil pans, all kinds of stuff with no gasket at all in most cases. That was going to be my next step if mine leaked again
I know on one engine tho its just kept getting worse because the crack spread into the lifter galley
I know on one engine tho its just kept getting worse because the crack spread into the lifter galley
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
Dustin I think your talking about the anaerobic blue gasket compound. It is awesome stuff but there is also a wicking thread sealant that will seal threads and small porous cranks in castings. You do not even have to disassemble the fixture to use it. It is a light blue liquid that is similar in nature to locktite.
I've often thought about using the blue anaerobic sealer for that. I have used it in similar situations with manifold bolts and other liquid to thread type leaks. We used to seal up motor grader rear ends where they would leak out the studs on the M-series doing rework at the factory. Worked every time. But lately I've been using a good quality thread sealer on the 6.4 blocks. I'm afraid that the blue anaerobic will get too hard and eventually leak after enough heat cycles.
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
Yeah back in the day when it was still cat branded they had blue gasket maker and blue high flex gasket maker. Then they quit putting cat on the label and switched all to locktite packaging.
I worked at the dealer level and we actually built a shop across the road from the decatur plant. We did all kinds of rework on m-series, scrapers and trucks. I remember when the h-series was phasing out and the m-series hit full tilt. We had like. 20 guys from three of our dealers working 7 days a week trying to keep up with all their "growing pains". Lol,to put it politely. The h-series never gave us much problems.
78f100
Active member
Sledpull, would you care to share the brand sealer you use. I think what I tried is made by lt not sur though.
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
I've actually been using permatex. It their "High performance thread sealant". It's a semi permanent thread sealer.
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
Tony, in your case I would try the wicking grade locktite. You can clean the hole with solvent, install the stud and then put the blue wicking grade in and it will work down around the threads. Little better sealer for the hole that you know already leaks. Fill the threads up so it is covering them.
