Cracked blocks

[madman1234509]

I get that. But when the whole elite vs arp stud debate was going on quite a while back, there was discussion on how one stud may stretch more, needing more torque, where as the other didnt. I just thought elites torque spec was significantly lower, which may be the reason for cracking of dustins block, if it cracked after the retorque. Torqued way past its intended spec, doesnt stretch like an arp causing failure of the block. Again I have no idea what elites torque spec is. But I dont even think the current arp studs and new lube with them on the market is torqued to 325, I think mine went to like 280-295, around there.

 

[Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto]

Arp new torque spec is 275.

 

[Dzchey21]

I had to do something puking wasn't working but cracking the block sucks too.

Torqued cab on after it puked to 300, puking went away but then it had coolant coming up the stud. I'm sure it happened on the retorque. Like Tadd said I think after one torque they seam to be more susceptible regardless of how much.

I used arp lube is why I went a bit higher.

This truck is a toy so a filled block won't matter. But for the daily driver guys this **** sucks don't know how else to put it

 

[Meniacal_Mark]

Silicone it like Bill Hewitt

 

[madman1234509]

Definitely sucks. Im looking forward to hear how daily drivability/ longer distances works for guys that end up filling their blocks. Hopefully Clausen will get some mileage on his truck and have something positive to report about staying cool with limited to no coolant flowing through the block

 

[Dzchey21]

Silicone it like Bill Hewitt

Loctite thread sealant on mine now. So far so good but I doubt I have 3000 miles on the engine since then

 

[Meniacal_Mark]

Green sealent? I was just joking about the silicone lol

 

[Dzchey21]

White. Its a paste

 

[Powerstroked162]

Definitely sucks. Im looking forward to hear how daily drivability/ longer distances works for guys that end up filling their blocks. Hopefully Clausen will get some mileage on his truck and have something positive to report about staying cool with limited to no coolant flowing through the block

It's not gonna be an issue. We ran filled 7.3 blocks for years and it made zero difference.

 

[78f100]

Thats what I used also, its just thread sealer made by loctite, it has no actual thread locker in it. I think I am gonna part fill my block when I put it in the reg cab also. I want to be able to dd it but it will never really tow or anything. I think it will be fine.

 

[Meniacal_Mark]

White. Its a paste

I was thinking of the green stuff that locks metal-to-metal good, my bad.

 

[madman1234509]

Thats good to hear about the 7.3 working. The guy building my truck said he wasnt too sure about diesels, but hes known of plenty of gas racers that the blocks are filled with just coolant cooling the heads and are fine

 

[bigrpowr]

It's not gonna be an issue. We ran filled 7.3 blocks for years and it made zero difference.

Actually it did. Half filled block had pretty substantial increase in eot.. Was not functional for a daily driven Truck. I couldn't make it up a long grade without pulling over. That was empty no load. I think this block fill idea needs to be taken pretty serious for anybody planning a road trip during summer months.

 

[Meniacal_Mark]

I'll stand by my 6.4 cgi idea

 

[Super08Duty]

Add me to the list. Never had issues until sometime after the build. It's gotten worse and worse. I torqued the studs to 325 with arp lube. No thread sealer as the block was fine at that time. Now every time I drive it, I have to add at least a gallon of water/coolant.

 

[Powerstroked162]

Actually it did. Half filled block had pretty substantial increase in eot.. Was not functional for a daily driven Truck. I couldn't make it up a long grade without pulling over. That was empty no load. I think this block fill idea needs to be taken pretty serious for anybody planning a road trip during summer months.

Weird. EOT and ECT were up no more than 5* on mine. I was 3/4 filled.


.

 

[Wayne]

Clausen's engine, which is partially filled, has about 800 miles on it now has twice made the 150 mile round trip from our shop, up I-70 over the great divide (11000 ft at the peak), and back without cracking 220* on either coolant or oil. It's usually around the standard temp range of 195-205, but has seen as high as 220 when under sustained high power. Temps are right in line with other trucks that have been put under similar stresses, but with fully open coolant passages. I doubt we're filling it as much as some of you might think. All major passages allow for full flow. After the hard blok hardened, we went back in, and removed all possible scale from the walls of the water jackets, then sealed it to minimize the possibility of future flaking, which can cause the oil cooler to plug. It is very time consuming to do, but not an area to be compromised on. Granted, this is the first block we've done on a 6.4, but we're using tried and true methods. It might also be worth mentioning that with our approach, the cooling system still holds about 6 gallons. While I wouldn't recommend it for a truck that constantly had a 10K # load behind it, for the average guy we see no reason to be afraid to do it.

 

[Wayne]

Add me to the list. Never had issues until sometime after the build. It's gotten worse and worse. I torqued the studs to 325 with arp lube. No thread sealer as the block was fine at that time. Now every time I drive it, I have to add at least a gallon of water/coolant.

If you haven't already wiped out the bearings, I'd recommend a fresh oil change, pulling, sealing, and re-installing 1 stud at a time, then going for a top quality cooling system sealer, such as the one I mentioned before, BG 511. It could be the solution to your problems, as long as there's any chance of saving it.

 

[Danny26]

If you haven't already wiped out the bearings, I'd recommend a fresh oil change, pulling, sealing, and re-installing 1 stud at a time, then going for a top quality cooling system sealer, such as the one I mentioned before, BG 511. It could be the solution to your problems, as long as there's any chance of saving it.

And make sure you have a large oil pan to catch all the mix that's gonna come out, Wayne knows about that with my truck... :badidea:

 

[Super08Duty]

When I said a gallon, I was being modest. Every time I drive the truck (usually every other week) the coolant bottle is bone dry. I can fill it back up, drive 150 miles, and have to add another gallon. At this point, I don't see thread sealer working for long. But I could be completely wrong. I plan on draining the oil to see how bad the dilution is.