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Weird. EOT and ECT were up no more than 5* on mine. I was 3/4 filled.
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Not really sure how that could be weird. I drove it to utah in the summer. It was hot. When did you drive yours ?
Weird. EOT and ECT were up no more than 5* on mine. I was 3/4 filled.
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Clausen's engine, which is partially filled, has about 800 miles on it now has twice made the 150 mile round trip from our shop, up I-70 over the great divide (11000 ft at the peak), and back without cracking 220* on either coolant or oil. It's usually around the standard temp range of 195-205, but has seen as high as 220 when under sustained high power. Temps are right in line with other trucks that have been put under similar stresses, but with fully open coolant passages. I doubt we're filling it as much as some of you might think. All major passages allow for full flow. After the hard blok hardened, we went back in, and removed all possible scale from the walls of the water jackets, then sealed it to minimize the possibility of future flaking, which can cause the oil cooler to plug. It is very time consuming to do, but not an area to be compromised on. Granted, this is the first block we've done on a 6.4, but we're using tried and true methods. It might also be worth mentioning that with our approach, the cooling system still holds about 6 gallons. While I wouldn't recommend it for a truck that constantly had a 10K # load behind it, for the average guy we see no reason to be afraid to do it.
Not really sure how that could be weird. I drove it to utah in the summer. It was hot. When did you drive yours ?
I think you might want to factor ambient into your equation. Hot summer day , big grade. If it handles that .. I assume the fan is working its ass off.
Someone please remind me why I want two highly modified 6.4's? :morons:
Because all the cool kids are doing it
The build date on my truck is 04-07 and I have about 3k mile since studs were done. And we used arp lube and torqued to 275. I haven't lost any coolant yet and I have been beating the truck (sled pulled twice, raced an sti, and raced another car while pulling 6 tons) like its a rental. That's just my info to maybe help solve this little problem. We just cleaned the stud holes really really good ( vacuumed them out) and put them in finger tight
Would cryo treating help with this, or cast welding to build up the areas prone to cracking?
Are these main studs your talking about?
Rather than me continue to explain our procedures, or data we've collected, I'll just let Erik offer his report of how well the temps stay in check after he gets it back. It seems no amount of info from me is going to change any opinions, or opinions of facts.
perfect. i think until its tested not much can be said. i just think i wouldnt run around telling everbody a filled block is the answer until we do so.
claussen- my issue was going up baker grade towards vegas, it was 105 or so on the big thermometer.
Would cryo treating help with this, or cast welding to build up the areas prone to cracking?