Cracked blocks

Jgon08

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One can only imagine that'll be the case, he's had ****ty luck with everything, but the bottom end is holding 1300 HP :wtf: LOL

Yes he has I hope it holds up he dosnt need anymore issues.
 

madman1234509

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Im really surprised this is just showing up now in these trucks. Something must be going on. Weve gone 5 or six model years and only in the last couple months this has really only been mentioned. You think if it was an integrity problem it would have been an issue from day 1 with the first hand full of builds and head stud jobs
 

mike@haller's

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Im really surprised this is just showing up now in these trucks. Something must be going on. Weve gone 5 or six model years and only in the last couple months this has really only been mentioned. You think if it was an integrity problem it would have been an issue from day 1 with the first hand full of builds and head stud jobs

Its been going on longer than that, just hasnt been on the forums. A few of us have been working on a fix for it for close to a year now.
 

simonton6.4

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So is there any other tricks that anyone has to keeping the blocks from cracking other then whats already been said
 

Erikclaw

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How much are people filling these blocks? And are these trucks able to be daily driven with the blocks filled?

It was filled a little over half and in a way to cover the suspected weak spots. I plan on daily driving it, wheeling and some minor towing, so we will see how reacts.
 

newman

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Could the studs be bottoming out causing the head of the stud to pull the block apart?
 

78f100

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Mine is holding for now after teflon paste on the stud and I added a bottle of Blue Devil to the coolant. After I sealed the stud I am not sure but I think I still had a slight leak. I had nothing to loose by trying the sealant in the coolant. My Ford guy was prepared to replace my block free but I just don't have time to do the swap right now, and wanted to enjoy the truck for a while.

I used Blue Devil because my brother has a lincoln ls 3.9v8. It blew a head gasket but my truck had my shop tied up so we couldn't repair it at the time. He tried the stuff and it worked. That was about 6-7 months ago, he drives the car at least 120 miles a day without a issue so far. That being said we have a complete motor to swap in his car if/when it lets go.

I have beat the snot out of my motor for 2k miles since and have not lost a drop of coolant. When I get a chance this motor is going in a regular cab I just bought, to be a race truck. We will see how long it lasts. I not saying its a permanent solution but it is working for me, for now.
 
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It seems the second stud from the rear on either side of the block is where they have been cracking. The pictures of the block Haller put up are identical to what I've got sitting in my shop now. One is cracked on the drivers side and the other block in the passenger side. They split horizontally with the crack crossing the stud area. One of these blocks cracked on the very first torque.

I've got a 2010 truck here with a cracked block and one out of an 09.

The problem with using block sealer is that the crack is going to keep growing under heat cycles and stress of driving the truck. Eventually it WILL leak again.

Even if you fill the block it will not keep it from cracking. It will just keep the coolant from running out the crack because there is block filler in the way.

Like I've stated in the other threads. I believe that when these blocks were cast that the sand core moved and caused what we call "core shift". This basically means that the core of the mold moved a little when the block was poured and the result is that there is some areas that are weaker because they were left thinner than originally designed.

This has happened on other blocks and is not uncommon. Ford Motorsports A460 blocks had a bad batch of core shift that got through to the public. People were blowing engines up because the cylinder walls were thin in some blocks. You'd be running down the drag strip and no warning your block would blow out a cylinder wall and trash a $10-20k (or more) engine. People were scratching their heads till they started sonic checking their new blocks and finding that they had core shift resulting in thin cylinder walls. I dealt with a lot of these blocks.

That would be the only reason why these blocks cracking is so unpredictable. They could have a bad sand mold setup that is not stable. Couple that with trying to lighten these blocks as much as possible to save weight and material cost and you have a recipe for disaster. It may only have happened once in every 200 blocks at the factory. Enough that with more and more people studding their trucks it becomes more prevalent. We are just finding all the weaker ones.
 

78f100

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Blue devil, i'll remember that! I assume its like bars leak?

Its a thin green liquid, about 70$ a bottle. I assume it has sodium silicate or something similar in it.
Like Morgan said I don't expect it to last forever and would never use it on a customers truck, but it will at least prolong building a new motor.

Back to the original request from Shane, anyone have the sn# for a cracked block? I haven't had time to get mine yet.
 

Derek@Vision Diesel

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Can those with cracks throw up casting numbers and build dates? Maybe it'll be possible to find a correlation between it all

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
 

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