Double Aught F-250 Resto-mod

[twisthappyr6]

Alright, finally put a budget together to do some much needed updating to my 00 F250. This is my first major mods to the truck, first thread and first post on PSN. So wish me some luck. Here’s a few pics to get things rolling

Picked up a set of 06’ axles for a pretty good price.

Managed to get the bed off and the back section cleaned up decent. Turned out ok considering I basically just pressure washed, went over it with a cup brush. Then hit it with some Rustoleum Industrial.


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[twisthappyr6]

Rock auto and PMF goodies showed up. Thanks UPS man!


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[twisthappyr6]

Got all my Rock Auto parts installed without a hitch. Everything new from the inner C out.



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[ncollins64]

Love projects like this.

 

[twisthappyr6]

So I guess I started the thread and didn’t really say what all my plans were. Basically the overall goal for the truck is to be a good daily driver that rides good, drives good and has good power. After all, with 293k on the clock the truck is getting tired.
So I decided to do the 05+ coil spring swap in the front using PMF’s 2.5” Alpha with Fox 2.0 non/resi, 3 link radius arms, heavy duty drag link and crown brake lines. For the rear I decided to keep my 00 Sterling 10.5 and run Fred Goeske’s 2” spacers. As far as the ride goes for the rear I decided on PMF’s 08+ leaf spring conversion hangers along with there 08+ soft ride leaf springs. Stopping will be handled with factory stuff but using crown brake lines at all 4 wheels.
To help with the power I bought some DieselSite goodies including their CPR fuel system, 4” Wicked BB turbo, PHP Hydra, new up pipes, plenum boots, and finishing it off with a set of gauges.

 

[twisthappyr6]

Factory hangers were removed simply because they look like crap next to the new PMF hangers. They can be left in place if you don’t wanna mess with the rivets. Removing the rivets isn’t that bad with some patience. Simply cut an X in the top of the rivet head and use a good air chisel to shear the head off, then a good punch and hammer can drive the rivet studs out the back. Be sure and replace the 4 rivets on each side that hold the cross member in place with some quality grade 8 bolts. Probably 99% of this job was done with 1/2”x 1.5” grade 8 hardware. There are a few mounting points in the front that require a slightly longer bolt. For drilling all the frame holes I bought 4 Neiko brand step bits on amazon that go up to 1/2” and some Irwin 1/8” speed bits for the pilot holes. I was worried I was going to burn through my step bits like crazy especially considering they were only 7 bucks a piece, was I wrong. I literally used the same pilot, and step but for every hole drilled on my truck, which was a pile. The key to these bits is patience, put your drill on its lowest speed, use hard steady pressure, and good cutting oil and it will last you no problem.


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[twisthappyr6]

first thread and first post on PSN.

Wow, just realized what I did here. I meant to say PSA. My bad. I’ll probably get flamed.


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[twisthappyr6]

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[twisthappyr6]

Inverted redneck drill press.


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[twisthappyr6]

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[twisthappyr6]

The rear went pretty smooth. Only real issue I ran into was needing to order the factory front hanger bolt and nut, along with a pinion shim and longer centering pin so the shim could be bolted to the pack. Couple notes, the conversion hanger came with a 3/4” hole drilled for the hanger. The factory 08 bolt is 20mm. So be prepared to enlarge the hanger bolt hole slightly. I bought a metric step bit that goes up to 20mm from amazon to do this. Also, the leaf spring centering pin is 7/16” fine thread, I simply took a 7/16” fine thread grade 8 bolt the correct length and rounded the edges to make the pin head. Worked perfect.


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[DieselDC]

Inverted redneck drill press.

I have the same yellow jack from norther tool - that is money well spent!


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[twisthappyr6]

I have the same yellow jack from norther tool - that is money well spent!


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No doubt, 170 bucks on sale. I bought two and couldn’t have completed this work without them.


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[DieselDC]

10-4 . Wanted two but they only had the display so I took it and ran with it.

Btw - best jack iver ever purchased besides my air jack (sob lifts the F350 over 36” in 30 sec haha)!

Keep up the good work - looks good so far brother!
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[twisthappyr6]

10-4 . Wanted two but they only had the display so I took it and ran with it.

Btw - best jack iver ever purchased besides my air jack (sob lifts the F350 over 36” in 30 sec haha)!

Keep up the good work - looks good so far brother!
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Thanks bud


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[twisthappyr6]

Demo is always the easiest.


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[twisthappyr6]

Drivers side bucket and trac bar bracket installed. This was a little tricky because the install thread I used from a different forum said their was an existing hole on the frame that would align the rest of the bracket. My frame didn’t have this hole so I had to figure out how to mount the trac bar bracket, in the end it turned out relatively easy.

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[Connor M]

Sweet refresh, in for updates. Is a difficult job to measure out coil buckets and the attachments for the link arms? Or is it just use existing holes or a simple tape measure job.

 

[twisthappyr6]

Sweet refresh, in for updates. Is a difficult job to measure out coil buckets and the attachments for the link arms? Or is it just use existing holes or a simple tape measure job.

Man the majority of the job is bolt on. Every brack has some type of existing holes to align everything. Below is a link to a thread I followed, along with pictures he took and labeled well.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1381009-05-super-duty-axle-swap-write-up.html

https://www.flickr.com/photos/108989458@N03/17998295640/in/album-72157651248480674#




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[03_PSD]

Looks great bud, keep up the good work!