old man dave
New member
The Bean's kit used both the Stanadyne FM-100s originally and then they supplied Wix equivalents later when I ordered replacement filters. NAPA also sells FM-100 style replacements.
E-Fuel Parts list, questions
- Thread starter jmsmith76
- Start date
Thanks for the info.
Does anybody have part numbers or specifications on the fittings I'll need for the FPR? I've ordered everything except an oil pressure switch and those 3 FPR fittings. Want to make sure I have my facts straight before I order those...
Does anybody have part numbers or specifications on the fittings I'll need for the FPR? I've ordered everything except an oil pressure switch and those 3 FPR fittings. Want to make sure I have my facts straight before I order those...
I am into mine less then 300 with two fuel pumps and reused factory fpr.
Tom S has a wealth of info and many many others have done other options.
I reused my fpr based on the tightwad mod with my own custom welding.
http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15001
Here is the route I went full bowl delete and less then 300.
Tom S has a wealth of info and many many others have done other options.
I reused my fpr based on the tightwad mod with my own custom welding.
http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15001
Here is the route I went full bowl delete and less then 300.
Nice setup. I've read through a ton of threads about doing this whole thing, just took me awhile to decide how I wanted to do it. I like the setup Tom S went with and I may use some of his ideas in my build.
I've ordered almost everything so far and I'm in for just under 500. Only thing left to buy is some wire and mounting hardware. Haven't decided how I'm going to mount my filter/pump assembly yet. Could use a steel plate with strut to space it off of the frame. Or I may make up a bracket similar to another thread I saw that had 2 plates to clamp around the frame rather than drilling holes in the frame. Since I'm not going with a stock pump mounting bracket, I'd like to see if I can come up with a way to use one of those exhaust band clamps. I feel like that would make for a really secure mount. But I'm still undecided on those things. Going to wait til my other filter head arrives and the pump so I can get an idea on size and spacing before I buy anything.
I've ordered almost everything so far and I'm in for just under 500. Only thing left to buy is some wire and mounting hardware. Haven't decided how I'm going to mount my filter/pump assembly yet. Could use a steel plate with strut to space it off of the frame. Or I may make up a bracket similar to another thread I saw that had 2 plates to clamp around the frame rather than drilling holes in the frame. Since I'm not going with a stock pump mounting bracket, I'd like to see if I can come up with a way to use one of those exhaust band clamps. I feel like that would make for a really secure mount. But I'm still undecided on those things. Going to wait til my other filter head arrives and the pump so I can get an idea on size and spacing before I buy anything.
Actually just realized that I forgot to ask about the oil pressure switch. Does anybody know if the Strictly Diesel oil pressure switch will work without their controller? Most of the other threads I've seen, people used a 3 terminal switch. The strictly diesel switch has 2 terminals.
Here's a link to it
Here's a link to it
Any oil switch that is normally open is fine. The 3 terminal is just a NC/NO C switch. The controller is just to simplify wiring. If the wire tap you use to excite the relay is ran to the switch in series it so that oil pressure would be needed to turn on the relay. That would be a fail safe if it dies or is not started then the fuel won't be on.
m j
Active member
that fuel pressure reg uses -06 ORB fittings.
I think you need two -06 ORB to (-04 or -06) JIC whatever the factory lines are if you are going to reuse the factory stuff
the third fitting from the bottom of the reg will again be an adapter -06 ORB to whatever you choose to run to the return line.
I will try and flare the factory hardline to AN/JIC for a leakproof permanant clean install.
I personally will not use any npt if at all possible to avoid it, nor any hose clamps.
my efuel is still in parts collecting but you can buy factory style fittings to connect to the selector valve.
I bought a baldwin fb1311, -10 ORB to -06 ORB reducer, russell 644020 adapter for the filter out
filter in is -10 ORB to -06 JIC, from there it is a short piece of an style hose with an efi quick connector adapter (havent purchased that yet as I am still working on where I want to mount the filter and whether I am going to go to a single tank to make room for the rear 4 link)
I think you need two -06 ORB to (-04 or -06) JIC whatever the factory lines are if you are going to reuse the factory stuff
the third fitting from the bottom of the reg will again be an adapter -06 ORB to whatever you choose to run to the return line.
I will try and flare the factory hardline to AN/JIC for a leakproof permanant clean install.
I personally will not use any npt if at all possible to avoid it, nor any hose clamps.
my efuel is still in parts collecting but you can buy factory style fittings to connect to the selector valve.
I bought a baldwin fb1311, -10 ORB to -06 ORB reducer, russell 644020 adapter for the filter out
filter in is -10 ORB to -06 JIC, from there it is a short piece of an style hose with an efi quick connector adapter (havent purchased that yet as I am still working on where I want to mount the filter and whether I am going to go to a single tank to make room for the rear 4 link)
bluedge8
Active member
good thread, sub'd for future reference
I've got everything ordered up and I'm going to post a final parts list and some pics when I get the time to install it, which may be a couple weeks or so. Ended up not using the strictly diesel oil psi switch because I want the pump to have power while cranking. Ordered a PS-64 off eBay for 13 bucks. It's similar to the style of the strictly diesel sensor, but has the extra terminal needed. I found a few other folks that used it as well. Only thing I have left to buy is the mounting hardware. I've got an idea in my head of what I want to fab up. I am not a fan of the giant hose loops that lot of folks have in their filter/pump mount and I think I have a way to avoid that. Also I'm thinking about coming up with some sort of skid plate for it. Not really worried about rocks since it'll be behind the transfer case, but I'm wary of having sticks or small trees pop up into the filters when I'm off road at the hunting club, etc.
old man dave
New member
You can use 3/8" steel brake line tubing to form the interconnecting fuel lines without the mess and are equivalent to AN-6 braided hose line. 3/8" tubing bender tool is not too expensive either. The big loops are just sloppy workmanship. The steel brake line tubing worked for me.
The pushlock hose fittings do not use clamps, they have different construction than regular hose barbs.
The pushlock hose fittings do not use clamps, they have different construction than regular hose barbs.
Last edited:
Alright I fabbed up my pump/filter mounting bracket and sprayed it with rattle can bedliner. Here are a couple shots while the liner was drying...
And here are a couple shots of everything mocked up...
Anybody see any design flaws I'm overlooking? The gap between the pump clamps and the fuel/water separator is wider than it looks in that picture. It's a bad angle. I think I'll have room to get my hands in there for filter changing. As for servicing the pump whenever that happens, it'll just be 2 bolts and a couple hose clamps to pull the whole assembly off the frame rail so I'm not too worried about that. I mainly wanted to keep the pump tucked in there behind everything.
And here are a couple shots of everything mocked up...
Anybody see any design flaws I'm overlooking? The gap between the pump clamps and the fuel/water separator is wider than it looks in that picture. It's a bad angle. I think I'll have room to get my hands in there for filter changing. As for servicing the pump whenever that happens, it'll just be 2 bolts and a couple hose clamps to pull the whole assembly off the frame rail so I'm not too worried about that. I mainly wanted to keep the pump tucked in there behind everything.
My only concern is the hoses putting stress on the plastic quick connect fittings with it being that short of hose and it's not a 100% straight shot between the filter outlet/inlet and the fitting. I may end up routing the house over the top of the straight barbed outlet/inlet to make a longer piece of hose with a little more play in it to relieve any stress on that quick disconnect fitting.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
should have use sweep 90* fittings and not square 90* fittings. or straight fittings and ran a longer loop of fuel line to them.... but other then that it looks good.
Couldn't find any sweep fittings locally and didn't want to order any online cause I like to see it before I buy it to make sure it's what I'm looking for. I may run over to Fastenal and see what they got. I forgot to check with them.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
if you cant find sweeps just go with straights.. just put bigger loops in the... as long as they dont kink its better then square fittings.
live life full throttle
live life full throttle
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
depends what size injectors your feeding with a single pump... think about how it flows compared to a sweep 90°.
live life full throttle
live life full throttle
I doubt if I'll ever flow enough fuel to have to worry about that. Right now I'm running stage 1's. Not building my truck for high HP. My future HP goals are 400-450 so I won't be going up much on injector size whenever I need to do that anyway
