Update...
Driven the truck about 50 miles so far and the new fuel system seems to be doing great. Still have to figure out something about the selector valve. I started a new thread about it in the General Discussion forum. Anybody have tips for testing it to eliminate wiring before I get a new valve? And is it best to get a factory valve or a universal? From what I've seen a factory style brand new one runs about 250+ so if I get a stock one, I'll try and find a used one.
I have 2 leaks at the moment. Both are small leaks and I'm not too worried about it for the moment. One leak is at the post-pump filter assembly. I can't tell for sure if it's leaking from one of the plugs or if I put the filter on too tight. Either way, should be an easy fix. The other leak is top of the motor under the turbo where I clamped my fuel hose onto the stock line. It was a real PITA to get my hand under there and torque down the hose clamp, so the fix for this issue will be to either pull the turbo and make sure it's torqued down good, or to go ahead and upgrade those lines. The passenger side line isn't leaking at all, but I was able to position the clamps where I could torque them down better than the driver side line. I am leaning towards changing out the lines and putting in steel lines that reach out from beneath the turbo, where it will have hose barbs and connect to my existing setup but allow me to torque the clamps down without having to get my hand under the turbo. I'm thinking a setup like Tom S has, but haven't investigated much about those lines to see what I'll need yet. The top of the motor leak hasn't leaked out enough to drip down the back of the motor yet, just a small puddle in the valley. The fuel filter leak is leaving a spot about as big as a quarter in the driveway.