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Atsah

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Also, when I replaced the motor on the T-case a couple years ago I took a small zip tie threw the connector and the snap on the motor so prevent it from coming un-hooked. I really hope it's just a bad relay. I will for sure keep this thread up-dated. Mark, if anyone chimes in on the thread with a new idea tomorrow and I'm not around, either give me a ring or shoot me a e-mail if you would.

Will do.. With the weather we have been having, I don't doudt it has something to do with a relay..
 

abbottfarms

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Will do.. With the weather we have been having, I don't doudt it has something to do with a relay..

Yeah me either, the day that we started having issues with it the roads were still very wet from the snow the previous night. Hot/cold, snow/rain...It wouldn't surprise me if it had gotten a drop or 2 of water in where it shouldn't have.
 

abbottfarms

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First off, there are 5 relays and all 5 of them are 5 pin, but 2 of them are narrow ones.

The relay with the red dot on it clicks when my wife turns the 4wd selector knob to 4hi, relay with white dot does nothing (assume it's the 4low relay?). I took them both out, pins are clean, no corrosion. I swapped the 2, still nothing. Took the other larger relay from the other box just clicks when it's in the position of the one with the red dot.

2d5070b6-afd1-4fbc-b4e2-572daa7c49db_zps3d94642e.jpg
 
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907DAVE

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My bad, totally forgot about the FICM relay box. The red/white dot relays is what you want.

Okay, disconnect the connector on the encoder motor (large 2 wire connection) and install a headlight bulb in its place - a standard test light wont be the best as you need have an actual load on the circuit. Have her switch between 4HI and 2WD and the bulb should illuminate. If it does most likely cause is a bad encoder motor.

Also note that even if a relay "clicks" it doesn't prove its okay.
 

abbottfarms

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My bad, totally forgot about the FICM relay box. The red/white dot relays is what you want.

Okay, disconnect the connector on the encoder motor (large 2 wire connection) and install a headlight bulb in its place - a standard test light wont be the best as you need have an actual load on the circuit. Have her switch between 4HI and 2WD and the bulb should illuminate. If it does most likely cause is a bad encoder motor.

Also note that even if a relay "clicks" it doesn't prove its okay.

I just went out to try putting a headlight bulb on it, every bulb I have is a 3 pin bulb...? Didn't crawl under the truck as of yet, but I have to guess that a 3 pin bulb will not work. Any other idea's?

I understand that a clicking relay isn't always a working relay, but I swapped the large relay from the other box in it's place and it still just clicked, and since the truck runs I assumed the other none "dot'ed" relay is a working one. Thanks again for all the help thus far.
 
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907DAVE

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3 pin bulb will work as long as you use the 2 that make the circuit complete. Or use 9005 bulb as it has only two pins.

Both relays need to be working, the other relay that does not click needs to have continuity between pins 30 and 87A (while at rest) for the system to function.
 

abbottfarms

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Had a 9005 at the shop so I grabbed it this afternoon, thought I might have some relays that would work but I did not, so I've got 2 on order from my parts supplier. They will be at the shop in the morning. But yet again, we are getting more snow/freezing rain so I will be out plowing and sanding so it will probably be tomorrow afternoon before I have any news.
 

DanDevries

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my truck is doing the same thing so please fill us in when you figure it out. everyone i have talked to told me if the lights dont come on in the dash when you turn the key its most likely a GEM module issue
 

abbottfarms

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Wife noticed tonight that the 4wd lights come on when you start the truck, just not when you turn the key on at first, and as I said before, the relay clicks when you put it in 4hi, just not 4wd lights and nothing engaging, so I'm not thinking it's the GEM in my case...I'll let you know what I figure out tomorrow with new relays and testing it at the t-case shift motor with the bulb.
 
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Atsah

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If the lights are comming on in the dash, I'm wondering if you might have a vacuum leak Dave.. If you put it in 4HI and turn the heater on, does it go to defrost no matter the setting? If it does, you have a vacuum leak..
 

abbottfarms

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If the lights are coming on in the dash, I'm wondering if you might have a vacuum leak Dave.. If you put it in 4HI and turn the heater on, does it go to defrost no matter the setting? If it does, you have a vacuum leak..

Mark, they only come on when you start the truck for a second. But no it doesn't default to defrost. I don't think it's vacuum related as I have manual hub, not auto hubs.
 

Atsah

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Mark, they only come on when you start the truck for a second. But no it doesn't default to defrost. I don't think it's vacuum related as I have manual hub, not auto hubs.

Gotcha..

I know I read a while back about problems with that motor on the transfer case maybe that's your trouble.. Guess will see..
 
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abbottfarms

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Gotcha..

I know I read a while back about problems with that motor on the transfer case maybe that's your trouble.. Guess will see..

I'm thinking that is the issue, because the clicking relay tells me the switch is sending the signal, now I just have to figure out if the motor on the t-case is getting it. Wouldn't surprise me if it was the motor because I had it replaced at the ford shop when we bought it a few years ago or whatever it was.
 

Zmann

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If the lights are comming on in the dash, I'm wondering if you might have a vacuum leak Dave.. If you put it in 4HI and turn the heater on, does it go to defrost no matter the setting? If it does, you have a vacuum leak..

the hubs don't have to lock for the dash lights to indicate 4x4 or 4lo
since there is no way the system can verify hub position


it is all dependent on some position sensors in the transfer case motor

i also am guessing the motor or a connection is the issue
 

ncollins64

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I could be way off on this, but my last truck did this and it was the rubber vaccum hoses going to the hub. Mine was ESOF with manual hubs also. The hoses just got dry rotted.
 

Zmann

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seriously the vacuum has nothing to do with this

He has manual hubs but even if they were Auto the vacuum system doesn't actuate the transfer case and set the dash light indicator

that is all electric and the system can not verify hub lock so it doesn't play into the dash indicator at all


I also wonder why on a manual hub truck you had the vacuum lines to the knuckles ? the hubs are exactly the same minus a diaphragm and the word "Auto" is "unlock" are you sure they were manual ?
 
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Atsah

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the hubs don't have to lock for the dash lights to indicate 4x4 or 4lo
since there is no way the system can verify hub position


it is all dependent on some position sensors in the transfer case motor

i also am guessing the motor or a connection is the issue

I agree.. I didn't know about the manual locks until now..
 

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