exhaust manifold studs?
- Thread starter TyCorr
- Start date
GreenMachine
Active member
Wow your old!
Haha just messing with you.
I still have a 550 dump behind the shop that needs new manifolds but icant get the bolts out. Planning on pulling the heads out one of these days.
I would heat, drill, spray, ez-out, repeat, ad infinitum before I yanked the heads.
Hey Joe....heat, sawzall, grinder, and pipe wrench were the winning combo.
Cut some of em on the pass side that just wouldnt budge. I broke a couple sockets.
Heres the greasy mess on the pass side of the block. This motor is waaay dirty. Its not really had jack done to it in 265k miles.
Got one bolt I need to drill out. Hit this manifold with rustoleum 2000° after I degreased, sanded, and degreased again.
Cut some of em on the pass side that just wouldnt budge. I broke a couple sockets.
Heres the greasy mess on the pass side of the block. This motor is waaay dirty. Its not really had jack done to it in 265k miles.
Got one bolt I need to drill out. Hit this manifold with rustoleum 2000° after I degreased, sanded, and degreased again.
Zaairman
New member
So Ty, looks like they broke off in the manifolds? How hard is it to get the broken pieces out of the heads? Just some heat and vice grips?
Vice grips were worthless for me. Heat, 1/2" breaker bar with 1/2" 6pt socket, and the ones that didnt wanna come out got the sawzall. Cut in between the manifold and block. Then I used a 7/8 sleever bar to pop the manifold loose. The passenger side was a btich kitty. No shame here, took me two.hours of cussing, heating, spraying pb blaster, and breaking sockets. Lemme explain: the 1/2 socket would round the hex bolts off when you really get on it with a breaker bar. So id take a 12mm 6pt and pound it on with a 2lb hammer and then put the breaker bar on and pull as hard as I cared to. Broke three craftsmans, the evercraft(napa house.brand) took it and is back in the toolbox. Keep that in mind,lol.
Once I got the pass.side.manifold.cut loose I grabbed a pipe wrench and twisted the four rear bolt remnants out and wound up with one bolt shank rusted solid in the manifold. I dont really have a good.picture of.that, sorry. I plan to take it.to the shop tomorrow and drill it out.
In a humorous twist, I got the drivers.side manifold off in under ten minutes. I heated, sprayed, and broke them.all loose. Grabbed my makita impact driver and spun them out. Done.
My take is that you'd have to be.crazy to attempt this in the truck. Especially when one.breaks or needs.cut.
Once I got the pass.side.manifold.cut loose I grabbed a pipe wrench and twisted the four rear bolt remnants out and wound up with one bolt shank rusted solid in the manifold. I dont really have a good.picture of.that, sorry. I plan to take it.to the shop tomorrow and drill it out.
In a humorous twist, I got the drivers.side manifold off in under ten minutes. I heated, sprayed, and broke them.all loose. Grabbed my makita impact driver and spun them out. Done.
My take is that you'd have to be.crazy to attempt this in the truck. Especially when one.breaks or needs.cut.
I know.some guys think its faggy but I painted my manifolds and Im painting everything else. We have so much winter induced.corrosion that if you dont paint it, its.gonna rust. Shtis too expensive to let it rot. In all seriousness though, you're looking at 265k mile hardware. The last three years Ive put 20k on it so its been sitting alot!
Heres the one bolt stuck in the pass side manifold:
Im not sure I follow? The other side every bolt turned right out. This one is rusted to.shiz. The four after that budged none. I dont think there is anything different concerning any of the holes.
Zaairman
New member
I'm just worried about the bolts rusting into the head, not the manifold. Good to know they'll come out eventually... My truck is from your area, the rust friggin sucks.
My truck.spent tons of time in Chi suburbs. Saltiest place around. If mine come out, yours will. I gotta tell ya dont spend too much time worrying about getting the whole bolt out. Id suggest heating it, putting the wrench to it, and if you start rounding the bolt head, cut it. After pissing away daylight worrying about one of the cutoffs breaking off inside the head it was all for.naught. The pipewrench is easy cheese. Should you choose to.cut bolts, cut them as close to the back of the manifold as possible so you have room to turn the wrench.
When I started this.thread I thought for some.reason the manifolds.DID have.studs on them but realized they are bolts. What anout these.though?
http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.ore...i=1362608&year=2000&make=Ford&un_jtt_redirect
http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.ore...i=1362608&year=2000&make=Ford&un_jtt_redirect
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
nothing on the link other then it says your yr make and model of your truck.
JD3020
Active member
Its studs for the manifold.
But why not just get SS bolts/lock washers and be done with it?
But why not just get SS bolts/lock washers and be done with it?
Whats that going to.change? They can still.get stuck in there. The bolts stick to the manifolds not the head. I think slathering on anti-seize AND using stainless might be a good idea. Although the properties of the "stainless" might be of question. Im going to look into it unless somebody wants to.chime in.
"I replaced the studs on my former truck with 316 stainless and and aluminum bronze nuts years later they still came apart easily. The key is to use stainless studs and bronze nuts. The first time I did this I used stainless nuts and they welded themselves solid to the studs after only a couple days of using the truck. Lesson learned . Stainless on stainless with heat is a recipy for trouble. I then had to make new studs and used aluminum bronze nuts and had great success"
I did a quick google search and did some glossing over on a machinists website and this.is.what I discovered. Seems I knew the heat came into play but wasnt sure the extent of it. Although, using just a bolt and some antiseize, a stainless bolt that is, might be ok. Ill read some more.
I did a quick google search and did some glossing over on a machinists website and this.is.what I discovered. Seems I knew the heat came into play but wasnt sure the extent of it. Although, using just a bolt and some antiseize, a stainless bolt that is, might be ok. Ill read some more.
Called my biddy Mikey who is a machinist and builds racecars, bikes, and by day is a machinist at a sandplant. He said make sure you get stainless that is meant to be torqued or they arent a good application. No antiseize either, it will gall the stainless. He said get stainless meant for intakes/manifolds or use regular parts and antiseize.
Mikey mentioned galling of the threads but who knows.when or.to.what extent that would.happen. Or if it in fact would.
I hope you'll let us know.what goes on Joe?! Not that you will be.pulling a bolt anytime.soon, just to.check.
I hope you'll let us know.what goes on Joe?! Not that you will be.pulling a bolt anytime.soon, just to.check.
