Going to start head studs cab on, input appreciated?

[Hanging_Heels]

So I've pulled the trigger. I bought ARP head studs and a sinister egr delete kit. These both will be going on in 2 weeks. I will be doing this myself along with a buddy who has done a number of head stud jobs (& everything else) on big blocks and is mechanically inclined. We will be doing this cab on following bigrpwr's/eviltwins tutorial found here http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...0-driveway-head-stud-install-101-dummies.html. Along with that ill be doing the egr delete following the instructions from river city diesel found here http://www.rivercitydiesel.com/inde...n=com_virtuemart&Itemid=54&vmcchk=1&Itemid=54.

I've thoroughly read each one of these tutorials multiple times and it seems like doing the head studs is pretty straight forward. Sounds like the most difficult part is actually getting the factory bolts out because of the torque and to be cautious of the injector wiring and solenoids. I wanted to start this thread to get any of your guys input who have done this before? Any other pointers you can give me other then what is said in the tutorial? Should I do anything else under the hood while I'm there that isn't going to break the bank and give me significant gains/reliability? Any input/ideas you guys have will be much appreciated. Thanks

 

[78f100]

You will want to look at your rocker arms really well, if the tips are wore and they probably are, replace them. It's easy to do them if needed and I think they are 210$ per side. It should all be pretty straight forward, but I have not tried studs on a 6.4 cab on, done one 6.0 it wasn't too bad.
Getting everything out of the way like ac box and such was the worst part on the 6.0 to me.

 

[Fordtrucks]

Its not to bad of a job really. Once you get everything out of the way its pretty straight forward. Dont forget to remove the engine mounts because you will need to jack up the driver side about a quarter inch and same with passenger side. We used impact sockets to remove the stock bolts and new craftsman sockets to install the stud nuts. Have a good 3 foot breaker bar that will fit over your breaker bar as well as your torque wrench. It wasnt hard, Just time consuming.

 

[Marty]

You'll want a good torque wrench. One that does not top out at the desired torque you're going to. I use ahuge matco one that starts at like 150 and goes to 600 or so.....

 

[JuststrokeIT]

I just did this last week, but I pulled my heads to send to the machine shop and im glad I did. As both of my heads had cracks never pressure tested them to know for sure if the cracks were thru but for peice of mind, I replaced both ive seen alot of people with cracked heads. So if you got the time to be without a truck id probably pull the heads and have them checked, it would suck to do the job twice. But all in all its really not that bad at all just takes some patience

 

[Hanging_Heels]

Thanks guys. Yah the more I read about doing the head studs the more and more I'm feeling comfortable with it. I believe my torque wrench goes up to 250, do you think that'll be fine breaking the factory bolts loose?

 

[TRUBBS]

Thanks guys. Yah the more I read about doing the head studs the more and more I'm feeling comfortable with it. I believe my torque wrench goes up to 250, do you think that'll be fine breaking the factory bolts loose?

Why use a toruqe wrench to break them loose? just use a 1/2" drve breaker bar?
unless there is something im missing?

 

[kyle43335]

Thanks guys. Yah the more I read about doing the head studs the more and more I'm feeling comfortable with it. I believe my torque wrench goes up to 250, do you think that'll be fine breaking the factory bolts loose?

do not use a torgue wrench to break loose your head bolts. that is abuse to the tool thats not need. not to mention the shock from the popping and banging, while breaking them loose can knock the torque wrench out of calibration.

most people forget, or do not know that a torque wrench is a delicate, precision tool. it should not be treated like a hammer.

fyi your sears/craftsmen torque wrench doesn't torque high enough to do your studs. (6.4 as per arp spec on studs is 275ft/lb) if you dont know if its in calibration, i wouldnt even use it. alot of people think a torque wrench is correct because it clicks every time you use it. wrong.

they need annual, or if its used alot? semi annual calibrating, to ensure its calibration is correct.

 

[Demon]

This--------------------^^^^^^^^^^^^

My 1/2" snap-on splitbeam torque wrench is not reversible. And my 3/4" snapon is reversible, but it's use it for torqueing left handed fasteners.

Use the tool, aptley named, breaker bar for breaking torque. Or a gun if you can fit it.

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Hanging_Heels]

Well I've been reading up on this too much I meant to put "do you think that I'll be able to tighten my studs down with the 250 torque wrench" but found my answer with it being 105, then 145 in sequence, then 195 in sequence. As you can see I got to many numbers, tools, and threads running through my head so I was a little confused. :doh:

 

[kyle43335]

Well I've been reading up on this too much I meant to put "do you think that I'll be able to tighten my studs down with the 250 torque wrench" but found my answer with it being 105, then 145 in sequence, then 195 in sequence. As you can see I got to many numbers, tools, and threads running through my head so I was a little confused. :doh:

I dont know where you got 195 for torque spec on a 6.4? But thats not correct.

 

[Hanging_Heels]

Maybe I'm mistaken but I found it in this tutorial step 8 http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...0-driveway-head-stud-install-101-dummies.html

 

[drunk on diesel]

do it right...

fly the cab, pull the heads, have them trued, new OEM gaskets, and proper torque sequence

 

[Fordtrucks]

Am I missing something? I just did mine and the info sheet that came with my ARP studs had a final torque of 275 Ft Lbs... Soooo, Thats how tight mine are.. :/

 

[kyle43335]

Maybe I'm mistaken but I found it in this tutorial step 8 http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...0-driveway-head-stud-install-101-dummies.html

arp studs and h11 have different torque specs. make sure you use the right ones

 

[Hanging_Heels]

FordTrucks maybe you're right, i have not yet opened my ARP box yet. I've been reading "how to" tutorials on the forums and that is just what I've come across. Maybe someone can enlighten me on what the proper torque should be...?

 

[Hanging_Heels]

arp studs and h11 have different torque specs. make sure you use the right ones

Oh ok. Well that explains it... Thank you partner.

Fordtrucks your probably right about the 275 on the ARP studs then. Well I'm glad I posted this thread.. This is exactly the kind of things I wanted to find out. Any other info is always appreciated.

 

[White_monster]

Read the torque sheet in the box, duh. And to anyone saying the cab has to come off for head gaskets to be changed, well hate to break it but it doesn't. Some of us don't have the facility for that.

 

[kyle43335]

Read the torque sheet in the box, duh. And to anyone saying the cab has to come off for head gaskets to be changed, well hate to break it but it doesn't. Some of us don't have the facility for that.

that reason would be about the only one that i wouldnt pull the cab. much easier once its up and out of the way.

 

[Fordtrucks]

The torque sheet in the box gave the 3 steps, 90-180-275 i think they were. We removed 1 bolt at a time and replaced it with a stud, torqued to 90, in the proper sequence. After they were all in and at 90 Ft Lbs we re did the sequence to 180 then 275, using a 3 foot bar over the TQ wrench. We also looked online to verify the final torque. We also made sure the block holes were clean and we dipped the corse threads in motor oil before installing the stud in to the block. Tighten them hand tight then back out about a quarter turn. Use plenty of the supplied ARP thread lube on the top end when installing the washers and nuts. Also, youll need to remove the engine mounts so you can jack the engine up about a quarter inch on each side, one side at a time for the back bolt. We used both standard and deep well 13/16, 16 point craftsmen sockets and a 3" and 5" Impact extentions. Use 6point impact socket to remove the stock bolts.