Going to start head studs cab on, input appreciated?

[91turbogsx]

Cab off? What's that? They aren't that hard to work on with the cab on. If you are used to pulling cabs then it seems difficult. I would pull the engine out and do it on a stand before I did it in the truck though. Doesn't take that long to get one out.

 

[Johnboy3]

How do you keep the stand from chasing you around when you are torqueing the studs? Such a PIA.

 

[91turbogsx]

I just get someone to hold it. Pretty easy after that.

 

[White_monster]

How do you keep the stand from chasing you around when you are torqueing the studs? Such a PIA.

Stand on the stand.

 

[Hanging_Heels]

I did mine one at a time and used the lube supplied with the studs. I think the guys that did the studs like that, then blew the gaskets either had an existing problem or did it incorrectly. Mines held up perfectly fine. I did a lot of my mods in a short period of time and was easy on my motor until i got the studs done so im confident i didnt have any pre existing issues. Its held up great!

Thats refreshing to hear. Im going to give it a go and see how it goes. Does anyone know that name of the thread sealer im talking about? Is it Permatex?

 

[imelmo]

I didn't read all this but there's a pretty good vid series on Youtube from seniormastertech on how to do studs in cab.

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[Hanging_Heels]

I didn't read all this but there's a pretty good vid series on Youtube from seniormastertech on how to do studs in cab.

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Do you have a link for this? Im looking now, but sh!t hes got alot of videos on there.

 

[Fordtrucks]

My ARP box came with 2 packets of there special lube. It was more than enough. Used engine oil on the block end of the stud per ARP tech.

 

[webb06]

My ARP box came with 2 packets of there special lube. It was more than enough. Used engine oil on the block end of the stud per ARP tech.

hes talking about something else besides the arp lube. some kind of a thread sealant with teflon...liquid kind in a bottle.

look at post #8 in waynes thread...

http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24516

 

[Hanging_Heels]

webb06 thats exactly where i read it. I just pm'd wayne and asked him if it was called. Thank you sir.

 

[Demon]

Your asking about PST thread sealant. Very common stuff, many different brands.

But if you don't drive the stud into the bottom of the hole, you shouldn't have any issues that crack the block. Sounds like the holes that are being cracked are hydrauliced, on a previous install. PST is like a band aide for bad technique.


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[Tree Trimmer]

just make sure you blow the holes out very good with air, and you should be fine.

 

[Fordtrucks]

I was told to make sure the hole was clean, Use an oil on the threads when installing and to thread the stud HAND tight all the way then back the stud out a 1/4 turn. This will keep the stud from cracking the block if it spins slightly during the final torque steps. Seems to have worked for me.

 

[Demon]

I was told to make sure the hole was clean, Use an oil on the threads when installing and to thread the stud HAND tight all the way then back the stud out a 1/4 turn. This will keep the stud from cracking the block if it spins slightly during the final torque steps. Seems to have worked for me.

Exactly this.........

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[webb06]

Your asking about PST thread sealant. Very common stuff, many different brands.

But if you don't drive the stud into the bottom of the hole, you shouldn't have any issues that crack the block. Sounds like the holes that are being cracked are hydrauliced, on a previous install. PST is like a band aide for bad technique.


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So elite is wrong? I'm sure they know how to install headstuds

 

[Demon]

I'm sure they did not engineer any headstuds. And I have yet to see a headstud manufacturer spec out pipe dope in their installation procedure.

I'm sure they do fine work, I have no idea who they are. That's not the point I'm making. Their addition of PST to threads looks to be to seal headbolt holes with preexisting cracks into water jackets. And you get cracked headbolt holes from the hydraulic action of torquing with fluid in the bottom of the hole.

what I'm saying is, you don't need PST in the block. If there's no preexisting damage and you follow good process while installing them.



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[Gunnnin]

I'm sure they did not engineer any headstuds. And I have yet to see a headstud manufacturer spec out pipe dope in their installation procedure.

I'm sure they do fine work, I have no idea who they are. That's not the point I'm making. Their addition of PST to threads looks to be to seal headbolt holes with preexisting cracks into water jackets. And you get cracked headbolt holes from the hydraulic action of torquing with fluid in the bottom of the hole.

what I'm saying is, you don't need PST in the block. If there's no preexisting damage and you follow good process while installing

You mean you own a 6.4 powerstroke and have never heard of Elite Engineering?

 

[blk350on20s]

He's saying personally. Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't each stud turn while torquing until it hits bottom or will the stretching occur and be enough to keep the stud in place?

 

[Fordtrucks]

The nut should tighten down on the stud instead of the stud tightening in to the block. This is why ARP has a special lube used on the top threads. Also, its ok if the stud becomes tight in the block as long as the hole is dry. Using a light oil on the threads is good but having an excess of fluid in the hole is what causes the blocks to crack.

 

[imelmo]

Not that I'm an expert, but I use a bottom tap on the stud holes to make sure they're clean and put the studs in dry by hand. Haven't had any issues.

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