Going to start head studs cab on, input appreciated?

[AllGo'N'Show]

Sub'd for results/final tips for others. Thanks for posting!

 

[Hanging_Heels]

Ok. So today was a good day. I got the rest of the head bolts finished on the passenger side.

NOTE: A 1/2" drive torque wrench vs a 3/4" torque wrench makes all the difference in the world for the back bolts and 2nd to back bolt on bottom row. You need every quarter inch of space you can get doing these.

So i installed all 10 bolts on passenger side, put the valve cover back on, and reinstalled everything on the passenger side other then the Intake box. I moved to the driver side and removed everything in the way to access the valve cover. So tomorrow im just going to take off the valve cover and start installing the studs. After the studs are done and valve cover is back on im going to tackle the EGR delete as well. Those 2 bolts on the EGR looks like there going to be super fun considering they look beat up, hopefully no round house city with those.

Anyway thats it for today, im super happy with the way today went. Hopefully ill be done with everything by Monday night. Atleast i hope so because i go back to work on Tuesday :doh: Again, BIG THANK YOU to white_monster! Stand up guy for sure! I was shooting him questions via text when i was hung up on something and he always threw some ideas at me. Thanks again man

By the way whats the process for bleeding the fuel lines once everything is back on and ready to start the truck?? I know i cycle the key and use a tool. But what tool and how do you do it?

 

[Fordtrucks]

There r 2 banjo bolts that hold the to fuel lines to the top of the cooler. Prime the pump with the key then loosten the rear banjo a slight bit to bleed the air out of the system. Once you get no air bubbles you should be good to go. Note: there is a valve on the front that looks like a tire air valve, this is for testing pressure while its running. Not to bleed the air out .

 

[Hanging_Heels]

There r 2 banjo bolts that hold the to fuel lines to the top of the cooler. Prime the pump with the key then loosten the rear banjo a slight bit to bleed the air out of the system. Once you get no air bubbles you should be good to go. Note: there is a valve on the front that looks like a tire air valve, this is for testing pressure while its running. Not to bleed the air out .

Thank you partner :thumbup:

 

[Hanging_Heels]

Well all headstuds are put in. But im still waiting to button up the passenger side because i broke the plastic y pipe that carries coolant and is attached to the front of the motor. I was so pissed, i was ratcheting out the last headbolt and i broke it :cursing::cursing::cursing: But on the good side everything is done and in except for the fuel cooler and battery box which should take no more thena hour to put back in tomorrow once i get the new y pipe.

So now i got to wait for ford to open up tomorrow to buy it. Does anyone know the part number for it?

 

[Hanging_Heels]

So for the guys that have done head studs... Whats the proper procedure for starting the truck after everything is installed and ready to crank. I know to double check and make sure everything is hooked up and coolant is filled. But whats the procedure for starting it next? Is it just 6-8 key turns while bleeding out the air in the fuel lines with the back banjo bolt cracked on the fuel cooler waiting for the air bubbles to stop? and then a full key turn to start it and thats it?

Sorry it might be a stupid question but i just want to make sure im dotting my I's and crossing my T's.

 

[White_monster]

I let mine come up to temp and then I shut it off and let it cool. Then start it and warm it up then lay the boots to it.

 

[Hanging_Heels]

I let mine come up to temp and then I shut it off and let it cool. Then start it and warm it up then lay the boots to it.

So just bleed the air out of the fuel lines and give it a crank?

 

[Hanging_Heels]

There r 2 banjo bolts that hold the to fuel lines to the top of the cooler. Prime the pump with the key then loosten the rear banjo a slight bit to bleed the air out of the system. Once you get no air bubbles you should be good to go. Note: there is a valve on the front that looks like a tire air valve, this is for testing pressure while its running. Not to bleed the air out .

How come on this blog the guy says the correct way to bleed the fuel system is to take out the valve core in the valve and hook up a banjo bolt fuel pressure adapter? (Is cracking the banjo bolt the same thing as hooking up the adapter?) Also is it necessary to pull the valve core out? Check out 2nd to last paragraph in this blog where it says "bleeding the fuel system."

 

[forcefed6.4ford]

The fuel cooler is on the return circuit. I goes to the tank. You don't need to bleed it. It will purge the air to the tank. I had mine apart this weekend, hooked it up cycled the key once and fired up right away, no hickups.

 

[Hanging_Heels]

Head studs are done :rockon:. Everything seems to be with in normal limits and working good. Couldnt be any happier to finish this project... It took a little more time then expected but i ran in to a couple hiccups along the way.

My overall impression of this install was its not completely horrible to do as long as you have patience and the right tools. Those two things will save you an incredible amount of headaches. Did i say patience, because you definitely need patience?! (which this install definitely tested mine!)

If your on the edge and thinking about doing it, as long as your somewhat mechanically inclined you can do it! Just make sure you have the right tools, & give yourself plenty of time to do it.

If anyone wants to buy my 2 snap on sockets to do this install, pm me lol. You definitely need them, you will burn through those no name brand sockets instantly.

Big thanks to White_Monster, he helped me tremendously. He is the master of the cab on procedures, what a wealth of knowledge he has! Thanks partner, if we ever cross paths i owe you a whiskey and ginger or 10 lol. Speaking of whiskey, Jack Daniels is calling my name.... int:

 

[White_monster]

Good work bud.

 

[madman1234509]

Please keep us posted on if you have any problems (hopefully not) or if you have a HG failure in a some what short amount of time.... I hope this works out for the best because I am most likely going this route on my build if nothing happens before then

 

[bigrpowr]

im sorry but i wanna say all the issues you seem to have had were covered in my writeup. did you not read it?

 

[Fordtrucks]

I still haven't had any problems with mine and im sure there wont be a future problem either.

 

[madman1234509]

You mean sense you did head studs? Thats great to hear! How long have you been running it since the stud job? I figured the worst that would happen is it starts puking and I take the motor apart to add some more goodies that I shouldnt be spending my money on

 

[Fordtrucks]

Couple months.. ish.. I figure if it was gonna happen it would have done so almost right away