H-11s vs ARP's

[Dzchey21]

and if thats the case, it'll be interesting to see how many ppl keep buying from them. studs anyways.

since the current consensus is there the same, different lube genereates different tq specs, but the stud being the same, just $250 more.

elite has some high end parts, and make great stuff. just be interesting to see what the sales of this one product do over the next 6-12 months, if they cannot make a price drop to be competetive with the market.

on edit: this is aimed at dustins post, not forcefed's

I get what your saying for sure. Not everyone reads the forums so some sales may come in thru magazines Ect
I would like to.see what the price drops to on them.

I think when I got mine they were 890

 

[EvilTwins]

Being severly A.D.D it has taken me several hours to read this thread, even as interesting as it is. :morons:

I am someone that will be doing my head gaskets again. I did the studs (Elite) and gaskets a while back (November 2009) and she started puking again. I DID NOT have the heads machined and I attribute that mistake to my current situation, not SO MUCH the studs. I got my studs from Elite waaaay back when the ARPs were not available and I am not able to say which "series" I have.

My question to follow might clear up a lot of uncertianty swirling in the heads of some of the people posting in this thread and some of the lurkers.

Now that the back story is out of the way my question is as follows. What advise would you give to me in regards to redoing my gaskets again, besides getting the heads machined as I should have.

Will I be ok with my existing studs that will be embarking on their third (3rd) torque sequence. Yes, third - Before doing my gaskets last time I attempted a head on single stud swap out, to no success.

If I will be ok with my current studs, what should I torque them to....... Keep in mind i have a really early set of Elite Studs as earlier stated , November of 2009.

 

[BFT]

Being severly A.D.D it has taken me several hours to read this thread, even as interesting as it is. :morons:

I am someone that will be doing my head gaskets again. I did the studs (Elite) and gaskets a while back (November 2009) and she started puking again. I DID NOT have the heads machined and I attribute that mistake to my current situation, not SO MUCH the studs. I got my studs from Elite waaaay back when the ARPs were not available and I am not able to say which "series" I have.

My question to follow might clear up a lot of uncertianty swirling in the heads of some of the people posting in this thread and some of the lurkers.

Now that the back story is out of the way my question is as follows. What advise would you give to me in regards to redoing my gaskets again, besides getting the heads machined as I should have.

Will I be ok with my existing studs that will be embarking on their third (3rd) torque sequence. Yes, third - Before doing my gaskets last time I attempted a head on single stud swap out, to no success.

If I will be ok with my current studs, what should I torque them to....... Keep in mind i have a really early set of Elite Studs as earlier stated , November of 2009.

I personally, blown gaskets or not, would have them checked along with hardened valve seats. It shouldn't be that much and if they did have to machine it then it still beats popping the gaskets and redoing the process right the first time.
Ive used OEM gaskets since my first cab off job, only crappy thing is you get a paper weight because of stock studs.

Make sure the block is real clean and smooth before putting everything together

I believe this is the 3rd time my studs have been reused, i have Mikey's very
first set, and haven't blown my gaskets. I used the same torque sequence as what the instructions ask for

 

[Hotrodtractor]

only crappy thing is you get a paper weight because of stock studs.

I keep saving those up and figure one day they will make a neat sculpture of some sort all welded together. Cause hey free sculpture materials. LOL

 

[BFT]

Crap like that sells for thousands here in southern Cali. Tell them it belonged to someone famous and BAM!... You just recouped on the money you spent on modsLOL

 

[EvilTwins]

Thanks for the reply. I'm very clear on the procedure for my machining. Your reply has further affirmed what I will do. Thanks.

My main concern was the studs, their reuse, and the torque values. Thanks for your reply on that as well.


Sent Via My I Phone:
"Resentment is like drinking poison and waiting for the other person to die."

 

[bigrpowr]

Are they not 16mm?


"Step 5- starting with the first headbolt, you absolutely want a 16mm 6point impact socket. (We dusted 2 craftsman sockets to find this out. they both broke in the same place, the same way.) The factory says the headbolt torque is 165 ft/lbs, and that very well may be, but something occurs under pressure. maybe the headbolts stretch, I don’t know, but the torque required to break these bolts free is WAY above 165 ft/lbs. I would even suggest keeping an extra 16mm 6 point impact socket on hand for fear of breaking. Always be careful of injector wiring and solenoids. These are very delicate and can be VERY costly if you damage one. Be sure the breaker bar has proper extension to clear the tops and wires to the injectors.
Do not use a ratchet wrench for this. A breaker bar is much more reliable. As well, we used a big cheater bar, because it was ABSOLUTELY necessary, on every bolt. Once you have broken the first head bolt, it will require about (3) 90 degree turns, the force will diminish each turn, but most likely require the cheater bar. You will then feel the headbolt release, and it becomes finger loose. There is one bolt at the back that you cannot get out; the second from the rear on the bottom row. To remove this bolt, remove nuts from motor mount, (4 nuts), then remove the 2 transmission mount nuts, then jack up about an inch, maybe a bit more on the bell housing. These will clearance the motor to get the headbolt out. Leave jack in place until stud is installed and nut is torqued through complete sequence. You can remove the jack after all studs on the passenger side are torqued to specified pressure."

Lol

 

[Erikclaw]

Thanks for the reply. I'm very clear on the procedure for my machining. Your reply has further affirmed what I will do. Thanks.

My main concern was the studs, their reuse, and the torque values. Thanks for your reply on that as well.


Sent Via My I Phone:
"Resentment is like drinking poison and waiting for the other person to die."

I would reuse them, mine are on their third time installed. Have never had an issue with them or hg since installing them 1.5 yrs ago.

 

[Ipkyss]

All I can say is when I bought my "H11" studs, they were listed as H11 240,000 and there is no question to that. At the time I believe I also paid 900 for them. To see them at$725 was a kick in the face. Now I just don't know what to say... As long as they do there job, thats fine. But the price difference pisses me off. We can just add that to the wastegate kit that never worked for me.

 

[Dzchey21]

I personally, blown gaskets or not, would have them checked along with hardened valve seats. It shouldn't be that much and if they did have to machine it then it still beats popping the gaskets and redoing the process right the first time.
Ive used OEM gaskets since my first cab off job, only crappy thing is you get a paper weight because of stock studs.

Make sure the block is real clean and smooth before putting everything together

I believe this is the 3rd time my studs have been reused, i have Mikey's very
first set, and haven't blown my gaskets. I used the same torque sequence as what the instructions ask for

I.would increase torque a little. At least 210 if not 220 since its your 3 rd time

 

[Dustball8504]

For those that didn't notice yet, the Elite stud kit is down to $538 which matches there price on ARPs.

http://www.elitedieselengineering.com/product/14005001/1722-Head-Stud-Kit/

 

[Erikclaw]

I.would increase torque a little. At least 210 if not 220 since its your 3 rd time

HEY Mike H! You need to retorque my studs!

 

[Dustball8504]

Has anyone contacted WOP about this yet?

 

[F250stroker08]

Has anyone contacted WOP about this yet?

Jacob has been viewing this thread so i would assume they're aware of it.

 

[Dustball8504]

Jacob has been viewing this thread so i would assume they're aware of it.

Oh yeah, I just saw that at the bottom lol. I view a lot on my phone so its hard to see that.

 

[Danbonzo]

Being severly A.D.D it has taken me several hours to read this thread, even as interesting as it is. :morons:

I am someone that will be doing my head gaskets again. I did the studs (Elite) and gaskets a while back (November 2009) and she started puking again. I DID NOT have the heads machined and I attribute that mistake to my current situation, not SO MUCH the studs. I got my studs from Elite waaaay back when the ARPs were not available and I am not able to say which "series" I have.

My question to follow might clear up a lot of uncertianty swirling in the heads of some of the people posting in this thread and some of the lurkers.

Now that the back story is out of the way my question is as follows. What advise would you give to me in regards to redoing my gaskets again, besides getting the heads machined as I should have.

Will I be ok with my existing studs that will be embarking on their third (3rd) torque sequence. Yes, third - Before doing my gaskets last time I attempted a head on single stud swap out, to no success.

If I will be ok with my current studs, what should I torque them to....... Keep in mind i have a really early set of Elite Studs as earlier stated , November of 2009.

Why not increase to the torque value to 210ft/lbs as "the head sales rep" from A1 suggested/e.g. signed off on to eliminate any doubt? But knowing the specifics of your situation, and based on my own puke debacle and what the root cause turned out to be, (heads not straight plus stretched stock head bolts) my gut tells me that machining your heads this go around will solve your problem finally...
I guess I'm also guilty of "overpaying" for H-11 studs... NOT! But seriously after reading this entire thread and weighing EVERYTHING thats been stated do I feel dooped, not at all. I will stick with the facts of my case. Before, for whatever reason my cooling system was being pressurized, after installing Elite studs it does not. knowing I don't need to look back at the problem was worth the $237 more dollar gamble IMHO is all. But everyone is different and I can respect that, personally I'd pay more to watch monkeys *&@! but that's just me. Carry on. Great thread!

 

[sirnunya]

For those that didn't notice yet, the Elite stud kit is down to $538 which matches there price on ARPs.

http://www.elitedieselengineering.com/product/14005001/1722-Head-Stud-Kit/

Says $650 right now?

 

[Dustball8504]

Says $650 right now?

It WAS $538 when I checked it earlier!!

 

[cbrown]

:whs:

 

[oneturboforme]

Hey alll this comes down to is there the same stud by differet companys.... Is one better then the other.... probably not.... Elite did make a honest mistake on the advertisement of this product but mistakes happen