Red_93_L
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How long have you had yours back together now?
Headgasket job underway
- Thread starter madman1234509
- Start date
How long have you had yours back together now?
Not long at all - my biggest fear was just cracking another set of stock heads so I decided on this route - we'll see how it works out
madman1234509
New member
I asked sunrisefordps on psn and they quoted me at ther discount at like 804 or something... The guy thats doing my work has an account with a local ford dealership and gets employee discounting through them for all the business he gives them and he got them at the same price, about 805 or something a piece.
To the naked eye it didnt look like it had any cracks in it, and we thought for sure we'd be good to go. When they did the check at the machine shop they said almost every exhaust valve seat had one or multiple cracks. So to get all new hardened valve seats plus the resurface and the valve job that I need to get because my valves had some pitting in them it would have been close to as much as just getting new heads. I dont think the cracks were repairable anyway. Im not going to opt for hardened valve seats, it seems like the cracking may be due to high bp. Hopefully the waste gate will help a tad and in the future hopefully new turbos will eliminate any bp problems
To the naked eye it didnt look like it had any cracks in it, and we thought for sure we'd be good to go. When they did the check at the machine shop they said almost every exhaust valve seat had one or multiple cracks. So to get all new hardened valve seats plus the resurface and the valve job that I need to get because my valves had some pitting in them it would have been close to as much as just getting new heads. I dont think the cracks were repairable anyway. Im not going to opt for hardened valve seats, it seems like the cracking may be due to high bp. Hopefully the waste gate will help a tad and in the future hopefully new turbos will eliminate any bp problems
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madman1234509
New member
... Just waiting on fuel rails now. After rudys got back to me saying they broke their porting head I had to have my shipment rerouted back to me, obv not their fault and no bad mouthing them by any means. My rails should be back today (1/17) and they will be shipped right back out to RCD who offered to do them and turn them around same day, depending on shipping, for less. These guys have been a big help. I know the guy working on my truck has been in touch with them about their cam, and the procedure they use to intall their cam a few times and theyve been a big help!!
That being said, the cam was installed pulling the fly wheel, then the hub off the crank, then the cam. The crank was never dropped. If you mark and line everything up and do this properly, which the guy doing it said it was pretty straight forward... It shouldnt be a problem.
The cab was also lifted and the AC system never had to be evacuated. He left the AC system intact and lifted it with the cab which is nice to know for people who want to do this on their own who might not have a way to evacuate and recharge their AC systems.
Id like to get on a dyno with stock fuel, besides the rails, to see how the power and curve looks like on a pretty basic truck with a cam. Who knows what itll show. If the truck runs well and has decent power, maybe doing the cam the way we did (with less labor) would be worth the money for people who are going as far as doing head studs and having the cab or tranny off to go the extra few steps and get an aftermarket cam installed.
That being said, the cam was installed pulling the fly wheel, then the hub off the crank, then the cam. The crank was never dropped. If you mark and line everything up and do this properly, which the guy doing it said it was pretty straight forward... It shouldnt be a problem.
The cab was also lifted and the AC system never had to be evacuated. He left the AC system intact and lifted it with the cab which is nice to know for people who want to do this on their own who might not have a way to evacuate and recharge their AC systems.
Id like to get on a dyno with stock fuel, besides the rails, to see how the power and curve looks like on a pretty basic truck with a cam. Who knows what itll show. If the truck runs well and has decent power, maybe doing the cam the way we did (with less labor) would be worth the money for people who are going as far as doing head studs and having the cab or tranny off to go the extra few steps and get an aftermarket cam installed.
madman1234509
New member
Ported rails from rcd are in and on. Truck is almost done, just a bit more to fab up on the wastegate and cac pipe then the cab will come down. Probably be done this weekend. Rcd got the rails and turned them around in less than a day, I've been very pleased with their customer service!
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UpstateDieselGuy
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Awesome! I can't wait to see how you like it.
madman1234509
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Well last thing to do is finish the cac pipe, oh and rotate the tires. A lot of the material from the stock downpipe was reused, just the inside wall was cut out to make it a true 4 inch, the only new pieces of stainless are the two pieces that make up the bottom bend and get rid of the crushed section. Should be done tomorrow to get it out on the road and tune the waste gate
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MorganY
New member
gate setup looks great!
madman1234509
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The guy thats doing it does awesome fab work
Jeff@Spartan
New member
I like the modded downpipe. That was done pretty well!
madman1234509
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I wasnt expecting him to do that, we bought all really nice stainless bends and stuff to make one, but once he got it off he said he decided to save me some money in material and just reuse what he could.
weekendwarriorfsw32
New member
The build is looking awesome.
UpstateDieselGuy
New member
Again, looks great!
madman1234509
New member
Well truck was all back together yesterday, started it up to find a major fuel leak coming from under the turbos. Although we replaced all crush washers in all the lines one of the lines coming off the hpfp was spewing fuel. Called ford, they said that theyve had this problem and always just replace this one line every time now. So as of right now turbos and what not are off the truck, waiting for a fuel line to come in tomorrow..
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Jeff@Spartan
New member
That happened when I did studs, EGR delete, and ported fuel rails. We did what Ford told us to do. A few days later my truck hard started and threw a low ICP code. Cab came back off and we replaced the HPFP. No problems since.
oneturboforme
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Man that sucks hope it gets fixed soon i know what a pain it is to get them turbos off.. post some vids when you get it running again... Btw how did it idel with that cam? I would like a soundclip of that if you get time
UpstateDieselGuy
New member
Sorry to hear about the fuel leak. At least you found it while it was still there.
madman1234509
New member
I wasnt there. He basically got it all together and started it for the first time, was probably going to makes sure no fluid leaks and then take it to dial in the gate. As soon as it started the line was leaking. The explanation the tech at the local dealer gave was something like this
The old washers we used were copper, needing more torque to seal. Making the line not seal flat. So the new coated washers dont seal properly. I just wish the tech told us this when he gave us other advise during the build lol. My buddy who just did his head gaskets over the last few weeks had the same exact problem. So anyway new line should be in tomorrow.
As far as the cam goes... Im not sure, I cant imagine its going to sound any different as its not really a ridiculously crazy cam. RCD or someone who has a cam might be able to inform us a little more if there is any difference before I get the truck back. Ill def take some videos if there is much of a difference, and let everyone know how it acts. My main concern is going to having ported rails with a stock lift pump. And of course Id like to get it on a dyno before I do anymore fueling to see how it looks with basic mods and a cam, its either going to show it might be worth the extra steps to put one in if doing a hg job or it might not. And again, we did not remove the crank to put the cam in, we went in through the back of the motor and took the hub off and did it that way (the non recommended way). With much debate and after talking to RCD who does all their 6.0 and 6.4 cams that way we went for it. It saved a ton of time, and is pretty self explanitory once apart, just mark all parts and put them back on the same way. The whole reason ford says you shouldnt is most likely because if you dont put it back on the right way, it will throw the motor off balance, and as soon as you turn it on youll know it because itll shake and vibrate like crazy.
The old washers we used were copper, needing more torque to seal. Making the line not seal flat. So the new coated washers dont seal properly. I just wish the tech told us this when he gave us other advise during the build lol. My buddy who just did his head gaskets over the last few weeks had the same exact problem. So anyway new line should be in tomorrow.
As far as the cam goes... Im not sure, I cant imagine its going to sound any different as its not really a ridiculously crazy cam. RCD or someone who has a cam might be able to inform us a little more if there is any difference before I get the truck back. Ill def take some videos if there is much of a difference, and let everyone know how it acts. My main concern is going to having ported rails with a stock lift pump. And of course Id like to get it on a dyno before I do anymore fueling to see how it looks with basic mods and a cam, its either going to show it might be worth the extra steps to put one in if doing a hg job or it might not. And again, we did not remove the crank to put the cam in, we went in through the back of the motor and took the hub off and did it that way (the non recommended way). With much debate and after talking to RCD who does all their 6.0 and 6.4 cams that way we went for it. It saved a ton of time, and is pretty self explanitory once apart, just mark all parts and put them back on the same way. The whole reason ford says you shouldnt is most likely because if you dont put it back on the right way, it will throw the motor off balance, and as soon as you turn it on youll know it because itll shake and vibrate like crazy.
EvilTwins
New member
With the new line and new coated washers did the torque spec change on the line hold down nut?? If i remember correctly Ford wanted 18ft/lbs with the copper washers. Gotta ask since I am doing mine within a couple of weeks and don't want the same issue. Defiantly going to grab the line as you and ford recommended.
Thanks
madman1234509
New member
Thats just what the local dealership told me other dealerships might not I have no idea, they said they now replace the line on every truck they take it off of. I would def. ask them the torque spec just to be safe as im not sure what it is.
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