HELP! Died while driving, crank no start

cpadolf3 · Feb 18, 2017

UPDATE: Bought a new CPS from Ford and saw a significant difference in design and dimensions. Was hopeful this would fix it, but no such luck. The ICP is still unplugged, as I did find oil in it. I just checked the HPOP reservoir and sure enough, it was empty or very low again. Just to clarify, even after adding oil to the crankcase yesterday, I still had to manually add oil to the HPOP reservoir. It did not self prime itself. While checking that oil level just now, I noticed something I must've overlooked yesterday. The IPR pigtail has a section of exposed copper wire going to it, and the connector has residual oil in it as well. Could any of this be playing a role? Also checked all the fuses last night and didn't find any burnt maxi or mini fuses.

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Barnbuilder · Feb 18, 2017

If those wires touch on the ipr plug it won't start. You can use a plug off an injector wiring harness to replace the ipr pmug if you have one.

redneck1 · Feb 18, 2017

I've read through and this sounds like a pain! I was wondering if you ever unplugged the chip and tried that? Also, I was I was thinking about the main engine harness plug that connects on the driver side right above the valve cover. Sometimes the wires get frayed on the bottom side. My 02 had a random shutoff but mine ended being a bad cps. Ended up with three different cps sensors before the problem was fixed. The weird oil issues have me thinking it's oil related though. Good luck!

KCCO

cpadolf3 · Feb 18, 2017

I have good news and bad news. The good news is, I kept cranking the truck and finally got it to sputter and fire up and run. I turned it off quickly, reinstalled the valve cover air intake and intercooler pipe. The went to start it again and it was very very hesitant to start. Once it started, I had a ton of blue smoke and it was definitely down a cylinder or two, running very rough with an obvious miss. I backed out of the shop and went for a test drive and everything has evened out, back on all 8 it sounds like. However, the truck is now very difficult to start. I got back, shut it off, plugged in my HFT cheapo scanner and went to restart, and it cranked forever it seemed like. When it starts, it runs fine, but I've tried it a few more times and it's like the injectors or hpop are losing their prime each time I shut it off. Any input?

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cpadolf3 · Feb 18, 2017

I reconnected the ICP even though I found oil in it. I sprayed it with contact cleaner and reconnected it. Is it possible that it's sending a false signal causing the hard cranking?

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79jasper · Feb 18, 2017

It can.
Sounds like you just ran the hpo system dry.

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cpadolf3 · Feb 18, 2017

79jasper said:
It can.
Sounds like you just ran the hpo system dry.

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The HPOP reservoir is remaining full though, even after the test drives. I've narrowed it down enough to figure that my injector o rings are probably what caused me to lose 5.5 quarts in 3 weeks. I've never had starting issues before now, but is it possible those o rings are so bad that it won't even crank normally once warm?

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79jasper · Feb 18, 2017

What I'm saying is you ran your truck so low on oil, that there was none left for the injectors. No oil to actuate the injectors = engine won't run.
Yes, bad injector orings can cause a no/hard hot start.

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cpadolf3 · Feb 18, 2017

79jasper said:
What I'm saying is you ran your truck so low on oil, that there was none left for the injectors. No oil to actuate the injectors = engine won't run.
Yes, bad injector orings can cause a no/hard hot start.

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The only part puzzling me is the fact that once the truck is running, it runs great with no issues. It's just that starting procedure. How big of a job is changing those o rings? Any other maintenance I should consider while I'm doing it?

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79jasper · Feb 18, 2017

It's not that bad.
I would check/replace glowplugs and UVCH'S.

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cpadolf3 · Feb 18, 2017

79jasper said:
It's not that bad.
I would check/replace glowplugs and UVCH'S.

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Any specialty tools required? Is it just a case of removing the old o rings and sliding the new ones on?

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Magnum PD · Feb 18, 2017

Try to keep oil and fuel out the cylinder when taking them out.

dsberman94 · Feb 18, 2017

cpadolf3 said:
Any specialty tools required? Is it just a case of removing the old o rings and sliding the new ones on?

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Yep. Lots of walk throughs on the inter webs. Just like we talked about last night and someone said above, you just ran it out of oil. If you get it running and just put around it sometimes takes a while to get all the air purged through. Hard runs on the highway help drastically. There may or may not even be o-ring problems although it doesn't hurt to replace them. Your turbo seals may also be gone if the truck is burning a lot of oil.

lincolnlocker · Feb 19, 2017

id say you finally got it close to normal other then wtf happened to the missing 5.5 qt?

get it up to operating temp then do a couple hard wot runs.. should clear it up...

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

cpadolf3 · Feb 19, 2017

lincolnlocker said:
id say you finally got it close to normal other then wtf happened to the missing 5.5 qt?

get it up to operating temp then do a couple hard wot runs.. should clear it up...

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

After a few good drives last night it cleared up and everything is back to normal. I lost that 5.5 qts of oil in 3 weeks, so definitely either o rings or turbo seals. Leaning towards o rings because there's no oil in the valley or behind the turbo. Going to try a ccv mod anyway and see if it helps at all (I'm making a catch can). If not I'll be ordering new o rings and probably tackling that next weekend. Is it necessary to change the springs and check balls and all that good stuff too? I'd rather not spend the extra money if it's not necessary

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cpadolf3 · Feb 19, 2017

Just wanna say thank you to all the folks on here that helped me diagnose and address everything with the truck. I always keep up with fluids, but i never would've thought that I could lose so much oil in 3 weeks.

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dsberman94 · Feb 19, 2017

Turbo seals would put it into the exhaust or intercooler piping. So lots of blue smoke

cpadolf3 · Feb 19, 2017

dsberman94 said:
Turbo seals would put it into the exhaust or intercooler piping. So lots of blue smoke

When I start it, it billows white/blue smoke for 5 minutes minimum, or until I Rev it a couple times. It also leaves a trail until it's warmed up. Usually if I stomp on it and get some unburnt fuel coming out as black smoke, it clears it out and the blue smoke stops. However, if I let it idle for 5-10 minutes while hot (like if I'm fueling up) then as soon as I go to leave there's a very big blue haze out the back

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lincolnlocker · Feb 19, 2017

cpadolf3 said:
After a few good drives last night it cleared up and everything is back to normal. I lost that 5.5 qts of oil in 3 weeks, so definitely either o rings or turbo seals. Leaning towards o rings because there's no oil in the valley or behind the turbo. Going to try a ccv mod anyway and see if it helps at all (I'm making a catch can). If not I'll be ordering new o rings and probably tackling that next weekend. Is it necessary to change the springs and check balls and all that good stuff too? I'd rather not spend the extra money if it's not necessary

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with that many miles on it I would not do the ccv mod. leave it in the intake to keep the mtor sealed.

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

cpadolf3 · Feb 19, 2017

lincolnlocker said:
with that many miles on it I would not do the ccv mod. leave it in the intake to keep the mtor sealed.

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

What are the disadvantages to the ccv mod? I was going to make one that keeps it a sealed system, it just puts an intermediate catch can in line and then has a return line back into the intake

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