Hissing from drivers side.

benjamindurtka

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Actually both.... more importantly under the truck as i don't currently have park.

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benjamindurtka

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I wouldn't have called it marble in a coffee can. At times it was kinda squelch and other tunes it was grinding like a bad bearing other times it was non existent.

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Dmstrucks02

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Under the truck

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I just put a new cable and lever in my single cab, and had to adjust it. I just popped it off the trans and moved it back a few notches and put it back on the stud I believe, it's been a few cases of beer ago but it wasn't hard

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benjamindurtka

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Well.... that's the easy way. Not how the army taught me so it must be wrong.
Much rather muddle thru responses to poor descriptions from me, from people I don't know over the internet about adjusting the thingamajig that just "pops off" the whatchamacallit and use trial and error until I break it and replace it with a new part because I didn't know wtf I was doing to begin with. Much easier this way.

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benjamindurtka

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Nah, that's a good idea. I'll have to see if they have one. I like picture books anyways. Any pop ups in it? Lol

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benjamindurtka

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Got it done today. The shift cable didn't need adjusting. It was the manual shift lever that it attached to. What I had to do to adjust the cable was block the truck put it in drive KEYOEO, remove the cable from the manual shift lever and the cable lock tab from the bracket (press in on tabs at top and bottom, slide towards front of truck.) Shift to 1st then back to drive. Reattach. That's to set the cable. After that didn't work I did the adjustment to the manual lever it attached to. Which is block truck keyoeo, put it in reverse and with the shift cable locking tab removed manually move the shift lever until your reverse lights come on. reattach locking tab and check.

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benjamindurtka

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I have broken 3 intake spyders. First 2 were with a new clamp I got from Napa, last one was with the original clamp. I pressurized my intake to find my leaks today and it was leaking alot from between the turbo and spyder. I removed the clamp and checked for cracks and looked at the o ring. All good. Snugged everything up pressurized still leaking couple more turns pressurized still leaking repeat. Then it cracked just like the first 2. Maybe the end of my turbo is cracked. Idk. Just putting this embarrassing mishap of mine out there. Any thoughts are welcome.

2001 F-250 cclb
7.3l 4x4
forged rods,
ebpv, muffler, dp80hp dd.
 

benjamindurtka

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Thanks. guess I'll buy a third spyder and try that if the turbo isn't cracked.

2001 F-250 cclb
7.3l 4x4
forged rods,
ebpv, muffler, dp80hp dd.
 

benjamindurtka

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Resealed the fuel bowl because I was getting fuel in the valley and hard smokey starts where I had to turn the key over several times to get it to fire.
No fuel in the valley but the hard Smokey starts are still here... I'm thinking check the glow plugs next? I'll cycle thru the wait to start 3x and crank her and nothing just some smoke. Another 3x and nothing but smoke then another time or 2 and after I'm done cranking it will backfire then start.
My thoughts are confirm glow plugs/relay are all working and then oil pressure and fuel pressure?
Any thoughts?

2001 F-250 cclb
7.3l 4x4
forged rods,
ebpv, muffler, dp80hp dd.
 

joe d

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Could be injector orings or injectors... If all checks out with glow plugs fuel psi and hpo psi then compression and injectors is all thats really left. Plug it in for a few hrs see if that helps or not. That will be a good indication of glow plugs being good or bad. As long as tge block heater is good.
 
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