Hydroboost Conversion Done
- Thread starter Peroni
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glovemeister
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Did you have to do anything to the firewall or push rod?
No it bolted in just like the F superduty one
glovemeister
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Wow that is pretty fantastic.
Guess I will add this to the list of stuff to do. Hydroboost so far hasn't been that great.
What do you think about running a stock NBS super duty PS pump? I figure it has hydroboost provisions and will likely flow more than an OBS pump. I'm tired of the steering and noise.
What don't you like about it? Pumps are the same to 03. Or you thinking of a newer 6.0 6.4 style pump?
glovemeister
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99-03 7.3
Well the steering pump is noisy, and the steering isn't very good in terms of power assist. Had no trouble with steering or noise prior to HB. I know the system is taxing on the PS pump. None of the SD's I've been around/driven, whined or had trouble with the steering.
In terms of stopping ability I've driven an 02 and an 03 7.3 SD. My truck stops nothing like them. Granted they have four wheel abs as far as I know. I also have the same rear brakes as those trucks.
Just thought it may be a good swap since the part numbers were different for the pumps.
I did look at the 6.4 and 6.0 pumps they appeared to be mounting totally opposite of our own pumps. Would be a big hassle to get one of those retrofitted.
I have taken many of the c2 pumps apart and saginaws for what it's worth. C2 pumps are horrible. I have found no difference in any of them from a tempo to a f350. Internals are all the same. I verified this even with a few pump rebuilders. Saginaws are mostly the same but the vanes are a much better system. I have been looking at TC pumps. I am pretty sure I can get one to fit, just haven't had free time to mess with it. What MC are you using? What prop valve? I have the SD rear axle too and my braking is way better than vacuum. Pm me your number and I can help you. No reason your brakes should be way better
glovemeister
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MC is from a 97 f450. I don't believe I used a proportioning valve as I have rear discs. Rear discs are from a 2000 e350.
Will do bud.
wadeclinton
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The brake switch.
There is a different brake switch which I did not get. Better yet, I forgot to get it. So I grinded down the piece that interfered with the rod. But that caused another issue. The brake switch connector is very, very close to the bracket that holds the shifter indicator cable. The terminals on the F-SD brake switch are turned 90* to clear the bracket. Yes, I need to repair the insulation on the wire and get the correct brake switch.
Oh yea, the hydroboost rod needs to be rotated back to its correct position for the guys that are currently using the vacuum brake pedal. The rod is now lined up direct with the pin. With the vacuum brake pedal, the pedal needed to be rotated 180* and this put the rod at an angle (I forgot to take a pic).
Billy T.
[email protected]
I thought I might help a little with the brake light switch issue. I recently finished this conversion and ran into the Brake Light Switch interfering with the shifter cable mounting as explained in the post I quoted above. I was not able to find a PN for a ford part via rock auto. My local Napa stated that for a 97 F-Superduty that PN SL-239 was necessary. That switch is also the same PN for the F-250 and F-350. We dug into the catalog more and found for a 95 F-Superduty is SL-213. This part is correct for the terminals to exit the switch at 90 degrees and not interfere with the shifter brackets.
Pictures.
OEM switch left. Correct Napa right.
FrankTheTank
Active member
Good to know! I like the part number referance in the pic.
rusty1161
Member
I never did like the feel of the vacuum boosted brake system. After adding custom rear disc brakes I thought a hydroboost conversion would compliment my upgraded braking system. I used parts for a 97 F Superduty and they are a 100% bolt in deal.
Here is my parts pile. Everything is brand new except for the PS Pump with is a new reman. I also added a better ps cooler too.
The old vacuum booster and master cylinder removed. There is lots more room now! I blocked off the old booster vacuum line with a plug.
The new booster is a direct bolt in. Be wary in getting a reman unit as not all of them come with the pedal rod or mounting plate! This one is a brand new Motorcraft part.
New 1 5/16 master on the left, original 1 1/4 master on the right.
The new master came with a revised harness adapter for the cruise control sensor. It's a direct plug in as is the fluid level sensor.
Both brake lines are a direct fit too, no adapters required. The big silver sensor if for my BrakeSmart controller.
New power steering pump. It is the same as the stock one except the reservoir has an extra barb for the second return line. You can also tee into the power return line and keep the stock pump.
Pressure in/out and return lines installed.
I used a Derale frame mount trans cooler for the PS cooler. It mounts with two 1/4-20 bolts and fits on the cross member nicely. To protect it from road debris I used heavy course mesh stainless screen and secured it tightly with wire on the backside.
A Magnafine filter was installed in the return line. In case the pump or steering box ever failed I didn't want the fine passages in the booster getting clogged. It is secured with a 2" standoff pipe clamp.
This project took me about 5hrs. It was awful hot and humid so I had to work slow and take some breaks along the way. Refilled the steering system with Schaeffers transmission fluid, master was topped off with blue ATE brake fluid.
My impressions during the test drive were excellent, pedal feel is firm and consistent with less pressure being required to stop the truck than before. As a test I backed my 25" gooseneck trailer down our steep driveway. I had no problems operating both the brakes and steering at the same time. This was a very easy mod that requires no special tools or any modifications to the parts and the results are a truck that actually stops when I want it! :thumbsup:
Peroni,
Did you bench bleed your new master cylinder? I am tempted to use my Motive pressure bleeder and just install the new master cylinder, fill it and pressure bleed the whole system.
Thanks.
Rusty
rusty1161
Member
I just did mine. I have had all of the parts for awhile, just haven't had the time. 3.5 hours start to finish, this included fighting the flare fitting on the steering box for 20-30 minutes. I took my time, and I pressure bled my master cylinder and brake lines with my Motive bleeder. I really like that thing. I also installed the correct F-SD brake pedal.
I like my setup a lot now. I have a 1989 front Dana 60 and a 2001 rear 10.5" with modified hubs. This thing stops really well now, and I like the pedal feel much better. Of course, this is a brand new Hydroboost/master cylinder and I can only wonder if a new vacuum booster/master cylinder wouldn't have the same improvement or change in feel.
Another odd observation in the 10 mile shakedown cruise, is that the truck feels like it "coasts" better. Makes me wonder if the master cylinder was hanging up and keeping pressure on the pads? I'll have to watch my MPG's and EGT's for any changes.
Thank you to everyone who has contributed to this and all of the other threads covering this mod. It is well worth it for me.
Rusty
I like my setup a lot now. I have a 1989 front Dana 60 and a 2001 rear 10.5" with modified hubs. This thing stops really well now, and I like the pedal feel much better. Of course, this is a brand new Hydroboost/master cylinder and I can only wonder if a new vacuum booster/master cylinder wouldn't have the same improvement or change in feel.
Another odd observation in the 10 mile shakedown cruise, is that the truck feels like it "coasts" better. Makes me wonder if the master cylinder was hanging up and keeping pressure on the pads? I'll have to watch my MPG's and EGT's for any changes.
Thank you to everyone who has contributed to this and all of the other threads covering this mod. It is well worth it for me.
Rusty
rusty1161
Member
I definitely think my master cylinder or booster was bad and keeping pressure in the brake system. I drove my normal route to work this morning and EGT's are down about 50 degrees on average. I am going to check MPG's next.
And the truck stops great. The pedal feels just like my 2000 Superduty did.
Rusty
And the truck stops great. The pedal feels just like my 2000 Superduty did.
Rusty
I have to give a big Thank you to all that have done this mod and paved the way for the rest of us. I have owned my truck its entire life, I ordered it new and still have it and I have to say the Brakes Sucked and always have. I just finished this and got it going today. I used the Motorhome Hydro and for now still have Drum Brakes and stock Master cylinder I bought the Hydro Power steering Reservoir with the two nipples and also Modified the brake pedal as explained by Got4wd. It is a night and day difference the pedal is still super nice and soft but up a little higher and the stopping force is incredible. Thanks to everyone who has added to this Mod. This is one of the best things I have ever done on my Truck.
One more update, I was going to run the 1 1/2" late model super duty Master cylinder that someone in this thread suggested, when I look at all of these the brake lines come into the opposite side of the master cylinder on these, so I am going to stick with the 01-04 superduty master cylinder with cruise it is 1 3/8" bore and made for rear disk brakes.
Kip the 05 up master other than having lines on driver side instead of passenger, use a metric thread. I installed one on my 99 years back, and had to make the adapters to get from the master to my brake lines. Never could find an adapter.
A question, if youre using a 99-04 1 3/8 master on your truck, id assume you added a proportioning valve for rear?
A question, if youre using a 99-04 1 3/8 master on your truck, id assume you added a proportioning valve for rear?
You can't use a sd master with the obs valve. It won't fit. If you are keeping drums, use the hydro I did and keep the stock obs master
