Is a GTX worth the extra coin?

[a_moore]

Way too much fuel down low. Tuner can fix it, or you can with your right foot. It will pull harder easing into the pedal than stomping it.

I bet it is running better on top end because of the larger housing more than anything. Looks like fun.

 

[PowerstrokeJunkie]

FWIW i put .060" shims under my valve seals and i have not experienced any issued with smith bros push rods, 910's, and stage one gearhead cam

 

[TARM]

I am also running .060 shims under 910 and that was with a motor that was run 100% stock for 90% of 100K and 100% of the whole 100K were easy when they were put in. They were measured to get to stock height.

Honestly if people are not measuring then there is no way possible a person could have any idea what so ever what height and therefore the seat pressure they are installing at. Even measure only one cylinders worth of valves would be far better than a total crap shoot.


VanderChevy,

That could certainly be a IPR. I have a issue right now like that with my duals and I am 99.99% sure that is the issue. If you have an IPR allowing oil to leak sizable volume past the IPR o rings or even a stuck IPR as the oil thins as it warms that volume leaking past will greatly increase and in general pressure will drop some. If the IPR is leaking enough you can even have the oil gauge needle start to bounce as it can overcome the abilty of the LPOP to fill the res. As the sensor is at the tip top of the res the smallest drop in oil level or enough air is gonna have the gauge moving.

 

[vanderchevy18]

If you're talking about Byron's truck..... It's had like 4you new IPR's and 3 solenoids. We have replaced every single sensor that could cause it, and even put in new Injectors. (Upgraded of course! LOL) It started when the srp-1 went in. Maybe the new one will fix it.

 

[TARM]

Well it certianly could be something defective in the build of the SPR1. You got have a certian number of failures in anything. That's just the way it is.

 

[AzPsd55]

Im putting my new ipr in tonight so we see if it helps with idle if not then im sure its the pump, because i never had any issues with idling until the pump went in. And with the valve springs, i am def going to measure, i dont feel comfortable taking old ones out and just slapping new ones in. Im trying to get ahold of a valve spring micrometer from somewhere local, and get my torque rench recalibrated, so i can get eveything together.

Did you guys clock the center housing on your turbo's 20* for the water cooling, im wondering if this needs to be done. And where did you run the water from, did you take it from the heater core or somewhere else. Im thinking of running it strait off of the water pump, were there is that plug in the housing right under the thermostate to the right.

 

[TARM]

That's good on the valve springs. Do not forget to use the valve spring micrometer you need to take off the keepers and then include them when getting the right measurements.

On the water injections when its really needed and used is after shutdown and the pump is no longer flowing. It works thru conduction of the water absorbing the heat from the center section and that creates an actual flow thru thermal siphoning. The 20 degree angle is actually a maximum balance point where you get the most cooling flow without hurting oil drainage. You can go with less but for it to work one port must be higher than the other. The lower port is the inlet and the higher port is the outlet.

You need to make sure the outlet port carrying away the hot water runs uphill until it reaches one of the heater hoses its T'd into. The feed line needs to stay below the outlet line and ideally below the outlet port at all times until it Ts into its heater hose.

Based on that T into one line that is below the top of the motor for the feed and one that is running on top as the return. Use clamps to position the hoses in ideal positions.


One thing I know I have seen Bob Riley state over and over again is to always replace the IPR o-rings when installing a HPOP pump and the symptoms listed fit well. He even provides them in with the adrenaline pup I believe. SO anytime the IPR is pulled a new O-ring should be used is how I take that (within reason of course). I know I did not on either the one I had in my HPOP or the one that was sent to me as part of the dual hpop kit so I am now stuck dealing with this. I should have rebuilt both IPRs and applied volts to each to make sure the opened and closed.

 

[AzPsd55]

Ok i put the new ipr in last night (300$from ford:shocked And i did help alot with how it ran it still feels a little shakey but i think thats just me being to critical. And with the valve springs its add .045 to the total measurement to get yorur final hight, is that right?
And with the center housing needing to be clocked i just wanted to make sure so i dont end up cooking my turbo.

What did you guys use to seal up your fuel fittings in the heads, when i was under the hood last night i thougt i saw a little puddle of fuel by the driver side front fitting, so when i have everyhting off im going to reseal everything just to be sure.

 

[TARM]

The fuel fittings are NPT and should need no sealant. Sealant on fuel fittings is a dangerous gamble IMHO. Any gets into the fuel its going directly to your injectors from that point. Pre last filter is a different story or the fittings exiting the heads woudl be less of a risk as well. Now if you or someone else over cranked the fitting as you know that opens them up to the point you need to use tape or tap them out to a larger size and change the fitting. Obviously you can not allow a fuel leak to happen so you need to choose.

 

[AzPsd55]

I only asked because I was scared to tighten them alot because I didn't want to crack anything, but I just checked it out and it was oil from me taking out the ipr. So how does that fuel pump your running hold up to those injectors, I can't make up my mind on witch on to go with. And where does the ccv get routed after the new turbo setup, does it just get routed under the truck.

 

[TARM]

No issues at all it has enough flow I am confident for likely 700-800 HP. I am running 80GPH. Charles is/was running 65 GPH with no movement with 400/400 in his compound setup with no pressure movement under WOT conditions.

 

[SkySki Jason]

NPT fittings will leak without sealant, especially in diesel service (extremely low surface tension). I prefer Loctite 545 thread sealant. This is a high-temp, high-pressure vibration resistant thread sealant and is IDEAL for use in our fuel systems. I would never use teflon tape on a fuel system anywhere... As far as keeping sealant out of fuel, I always wipe ALL the sealant off the first couple of threads before installing the fitting. Even though this is likely not too much of an issue with the 545 since it is not very viscous to start with and will not 'dry' until deprived of air.

Loctite 545 is "A liquid sealant for locking and sealing high pressure, fluid power systems with tapered fittings. Contains no fillers and will not foul valves or fluid filtering systems"

http://www.google.com/products/cata...=jzY9TqKmKcLKgQeG-KHtBw&sqi=2&ved=0CDYQ8wIwAQ

 

[TARM]

Honestly I dislike NPT threading itself. It was never designed with the idea of removal and re-installation of the fittings which is why they used the NPT as its cheap and saves money. I try to avoid NPT threading anytime I can. I would much rather have a ORB with its striaght threading and o-ring seat.

 

[SkySki Jason]

Honestly I dislike NPT threading itself. It was never designed with the idea of removal and re-installation of the fittings which is why they used the NPT as its cheap and saves money. I try to avoid NPT threading anytime I can. I would much rather have a ORB with its striaght threading and o-ring seat.

100% agree. JIC/AN fittings are high on my list too! I've become really fond of PTFE-lined SS braided hoses as well. You can DIY these hoses with parts from www.discounthydraulichose.com The only problem with these hoses is ya gotta protect everything from them! Lol.

 

[AzPsd55]

NPT fittings will leak without sealant, especially in diesel service (extremely low surface tension). I prefer Loctite 545 thread sealant. This is a high-temp, high-pressure vibration resistant thread sealant and is IDEAL for use in our fuel systems. I would never use teflon tape on a fuel system anywhere... As far as keeping sealant out of fuel, I always wipe ALL the sealant off the first couple of threads before installing the fitting. Even though this is likely not too much of an issue with the 545 since it is not very viscous to start with and will not 'dry' until deprived of air.

Loctite 545 is "A liquid sealant for locking and sealing high pressure, fluid power systems with tapered fittings. Contains no fillers and will not foul valves or fluid filtering systems"

http://www.google.com/products/cata...=jzY9TqKmKcLKgQeG-KHtBw&sqi=2&ved=0CDYQ8wIwAQ

Now with this sealant seeing its the red loctite will i be able to take the fittings off if i need to? anyway looks like im going to look into this for my fuel system.

 

[TARM]

Honestly I would worry with these fittings size etc and loctite like Red just becasue these fittings can break off even without it at times and that would just SUCK BIG TIME if it happened.

 

[AzPsd55]

Yeah i was thinking about it and i dont think im going to use it, im just going to recheck everything when my trucks apart.

And i did an oil change today and changed the pre and post fuel filters, got everything buttoned up, primed the fuel system about 5 times to get the air out and started the truck up. I let it warm up a bit before i took it out for a drive, i get half way down the street and its starts chugging. So i stoped at the stop sign to rev it up to try and clear out the air, well it seemed to get worse, and then died. I tried to restart with nothing, so i popped my hood to check for fuel pressure and there was none, so me and my buddy pushed it back to the house. I cracked the fuel line open at the fuel bowl delete block, tried it again and nothing. Until about the fifth time turning the key the fuel started pouring out, so i tighten the fuel line back down and primed it again, and it started up like nothing was wrong. Whats the deal is my fuel pump going out or was it just an air pocket not letting it get suction, i dont want it to do this down the road later on. Any suggestions??

 

[TARM]

Sorry if you have posted this somewhere else but what pump are you running? FYI the pumps only runs for a 30 seconds per key rotation. It can take 2-3 or more x just to get the pick up to prime. Then it still has to fill the all the filters etc. Ways to help when priming. Crack open the post pump filter. This puts no pressure on the pump to build pressure and it can put all its efforts into sucking fuel. LOL

Another thing is to prefill the water fuel sep just as you would pre fill a oil filter. This gives the pump some fuel to flow thru it which will create a stronger vacuum to pull up thru the PU.

You want to fix this issue for good. Install a ball valve cut off or check valve right before your first filter head the water fuel sep. Between it and the tank. That will help you keep your prime on filter changes and also make them much less messy.

But if not doing as I stated and filling the water fuel sep and cracking open the post pump final filter will allow the fastest priming. Also you are running a reg return so there is no air to clear out once your pressure at the regulator is showing full and steady. BTW all pumps should be running a check valve right after the pump outlet. It prevents drain back and reduces pressure fluctuation or pulses at the pump which will lower wear and stress on it.

 

[AzPsd55]

im runnign stock pump now but will be running a fuelab in the next couple of days, i want to install a ball valve or check valve like you said to prevent drain back and help with primming, But i havnt. I would have filled the filters but i didnt have any fuel on hand to fill them with, now i no i should:doh: And where did you get your pump from that might be an alternative i might check out. Thanks for all the help

 

[TARM]

I think it was Integrated Engineering (www.intengineering.com) but I would just look on Amazon. I would be very careful of Ebay as there is issues out there with Bosch pump fakes from China and India. They are super popular and thus people are getting took.


The price should be around $190

The pump had a M5 - and M6+ threads for the terminal studs. The pumps for whatever reason do not come with nuts as many I guess have QD connections. Make sure to pick some up ahead of time as metric nuts are not something you usually just find at HD or Lowes.

I think its an awesome pump but the Fuelab many find awesome as well. If you decide to go with the Bosch let me know as because its popular there are threaded fittings or it to go straight to JIC/AN hose fittings. No need for worm clamps etc like with stockers. Also the inlet is larger than outlet and both are larger than Walbros in/out ports.