My new to me tow rig: 2002 F350 Dually

lincolnlocker · Mar 20, 2017

bluedge8 said:
What, you don't park your truck in a heated garage???? lol. I will shoot the block with the temp gun tomorrow before I start it and let you know, I don't think it is too far off.

lol.. I wish.. but nope. never a heated garage for anything I have ever owned.

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

bluedge8 · May 14, 2017

bluedge8 said:
So things I am planning on doing with the truck:
Selling the topper
adding a tonneau cover
installing a goose neck hitch
new skins, 235/85/16 BFG all terrain KO 2's
Fix the low speed miss
new stat
6637 air filter
Fox 2.0's
Entertaining new front springs
double din radio
Tekonsha P3 brake controller
Having the inj's gone through, would like to end up with 160cc's
Adrenaline Hpop
I bought a Hydra to replace the ottomind and transcommand
Upgrading the mirrors- I will most likely buy through 1a auto for those.
remote start

Can I mod the existing rear seat to the newer style or would I have to switch out the whole seat?

Well I thought I would catch this thread back up.

I've got '08 tow mirrors on, got all the wiring in the doors done, I still have to finish up the power fold wiring under the dash and the turn signals, but the power function, heat and clearance lights are done. We pulled the 5th last weekend and the mirrors were awesome, they are manual extending and I could sight right down the trailer perfect- first time since I've owned the camper lol.

On the power end, I got a good deal on a set of Full Force 250/100's- they should be here soon. I also picked up some Irate competition springs. Bought a set of new ARP head studs. I have also decided that sooner or later I'll converting to t4, most likely a 364.5 class turbo. I pulled the chitty CAI and put in a 6637.

I threw in some dorman valve cover gaskets and harness' I will replace them with Ford when I do the injectors.

I did get the gooseneck installed, topper pulled off and pulled the 5th wheel once with it, it pulls really well.

I have a double din radio in it. I also got the pleasure of doing rear brakes and rotors- on the dana 80 you have to pull the hubs to get the rotors off, wasn't planning on doing rear axle seals but they are now done. I want to redo the aftermarket gauge package but haven't had time. I'll post more when I get a chance- been doing nothing but work.

bluedge8 · May 14, 2017

So, is it normal to have oil Temps this high when towing the 5th in some small hills? Camper weighs about 10k

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bluedge8 · May 14, 2017

Here is how it looks without the topper and with the camper on

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gnxtc2 · May 14, 2017

bluedge8 said:
So, is it normal to have oil Temps this high when towing the 5th in some small hills? Camper weighs about 10k

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What was the coolant and ambient temperature?

I hit 215 sitting in traffic this past Friday with 50 ambient temps. I've also hit 220 towing up hills but the temps start coming down on the downhill.

My oil temp is within a few degrees of the coolant temp.

I would add a Terminator ScanGauge. It plugs right into the ALDL.

Truck looks good without the top. Did you add air bags in the rear?

Billy T.
[email protected]

bluedge8 · May 14, 2017

Mid 70's ambient, coolant to roughly 200-210, and Temps varied by load. I do have a scan gauge I just need to get it put in a pod. No air bags. I still like this truck a lot, wasn't planning on inj's, but that's the way it goes.

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gnxtc2 · May 14, 2017

The oil temp is normal for those conditions. Did it come down while cruising flat?

Plug the ScanGauge in and see if there is a difference between the Isspro gauge and what ECM is reading.

I would bag the rear with a wireless controller and you will like it even better.

Did you ever figure out the low speed miss?

Glad you like the truck. How was it towing with a DRW vs SRW?

Billy T.
[email protected]

bluedge8 · May 14, 2017

gnxtc2 said:
The oil temp is normal for those conditions. Did it come down while cruising flat?

cruising flat it runs very close to coolant temp.

Plug the ScanGauge in and see if there is a difference between the Isspro gauge and what ECM is reading.

they are very close to each other- close enough that I am probably going to pull that gauge out and sell it. I'm also going to pull the voltage gauge as well as the rear diff temp gauge- I just don't tow that heavy and want the space back, I am going to get rid of the lower gauge cluster, buy a 4 gauge pillar mount and put in the scan gauge, boost, trans temp, and egt.

I would bag the rear with a wireless controller and you will like it even better.

I know that would make it ride even better, but it is so much better than the obs that it is not high on my to do list.

Did you ever figure out the low speed miss?

Definitely had uvch issues- I threw Dorman one piece valve cover gaskets/harness' in it and it helped for a little while, but it does seem to have a slight miss again. I will putting Ford gaskets and harness' in when I do the inj's starting this week.

Glad you like the truck. How was it towing with a DRW vs SRW?
It tows effortless compared to the '96, but I think it has less to do with DRW, and more to do with more power, quieter interior, worlds better suspension.

Billy T.
[email protected]

I am looking forward to my first truck with larger than stock inj's!

gnxtc2 · May 14, 2017

Did you ever figure out that noise at 65 mph?

Billy T.
[email protected]

lincolnlocker · May 14, 2017

bluedge8 said:
Well I thought I would catch this thread back up.

I've got '08 tow mirrors on, got all the wiring in the doors done, I still have to finish up the power fold wiring under the dash and the turn signals, but the power function, heat and clearance lights are done. We pulled the 5th last weekend and the mirrors were awesome, they are manual extending and I could sight right down the trailer perfect- first time since I've owned the camper lol.

On the power end, I got a good deal on a set of Full Force 250/100's- they should be here soon. I also picked up some Irate competition springs. Bought a set of new ARP head studs. I have also decided that sooner or later I'll converting to t4, most likely a 364.5 class turbo. I pulled the chitty CAI and put in a 6637.

I threw in some dorman valve cover gaskets and harness' I will replace them with Ford when I do the injectors.

I did get the gooseneck installed, topper pulled off and pulled the 5th wheel once with it, it pulls really well.

I have a double din radio in it. I also got the pleasure of doing rear brakes and rotors- on the dana 80 you have to pull the hubs to get the rotors off, wasn't planning on doing rear axle seals but they are now done. I want to redo the aftermarket gauge package but haven't had time. I'll post more when I get a chance- been doing nothing but work.

nice!! but save some coin on that t4 setup and get ahold of kc turbos when their new line of drop in turbos are in production and available!! that is what i would do anyway.. the 250/100s aren't big enough to kill a 38r and suposedly the kc38r is a lil bit better flowing.. id do it that way..

bluedge8 said:
So, is it normal to have oil Temps this high when towing the 5th in some small hills? Camper weighs about 10k

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that aint bad at all.. start worrying when they hit 250..

bluedge8 said:
I am looking forward to my first truck with larger than stock inj's!

they sure are fun!!!

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bluedge8 · Jul 2, 2017

So, I'm good at staying busy and bad at posting in this thread.
Last weekend I had the truck and 5th wheel up north and noticed hot brake smell from the truck- when not towing- just running around up there with some friends, so I narrowed it down to the rr wheel. We pulled the wheel and inspected the less than 1000 mile rear brakes I had just done. the inboard pad was completely gone and had eaten all the way through the rotor and was at the fins. I never heard brake noise until that moment. So I got it home (with the camper- no one else could tow it).

I figured now is the time to get some crap done on this thing since I have to do rear brakes again, and we are taking the camper to Glacier at the end of July- I figured I better get moving.

On the list before glacier ( everything I can remember anyway):
rear brakes
check front brakes
install injectors
install headstuds
install valve springs
new oil pan
repair exhaust leaks
new front main (been leaking for a while)
fix egt gauge
install new oil and fuel passage orings
****** the pacbrake
****** bypass oil filter
rebuild oil cooler
replace steering gear
clean engine bay
possible rr fuel system (funds are getting tight)
More to come- that is all I can remember

gnxtc2 · Jul 2, 2017

I would just pull the motor.

Billy T.
[email protected]

bluedge8 · Jul 2, 2017

motor is already out, I posted in the xxxx thread, should have posted here as well. I got the motor out today- first 7.3L I've pulled- wasn't too bad.

bluedge8 · Jul 2, 2017

replace water pump and t stat housing

Jomax · Jul 3, 2017

For the manifold bolts. Once you cut the head and the manifold is removed. I bet with some pb blaster and a vice grip, they won't give you too much trouble coming out. It's the pressure of the manifold making them stuck

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heavydoc · Jul 3, 2017

I have done a couple of 7.3 manifold leaks while motor still in. The only ones that gave me trouble were the 4 or 5 bolt back. That whole is alot smaller than the rest. Had to cut bolt between manifold and head. Bolt came right out, but the part stuck in the manifold was a real MFer. If you are replacing manifolds no worries.

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bluedge8 · Jul 3, 2017

Thanks guys, I've been pulling motors and working on cars my whole life, but it seems like it's never the same make and model lol. A friend of mine is welding up an engine stand - the one I had almost bent in half ,,,,,,,,,
(I never unhooked the engine hoist)

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Vader's Fury · Jul 3, 2017

If the manifold studs are seized they will be stuck in the manifold. Usually a little heat will loosen up the rust and they will spin free. If not, just cut them close to the bottom of the manifold and once the manifold is removed they should come out easily with vice grips.

bluedge8 · Jul 4, 2017

So I have a few questions:
I am thinking about building my own fuel system- can I buy banjo bolts to feed to/from?

I have drained the hpop oil at the back of both heads, the fuel rail at the back of both heads, and the coolant via block drains. I am thinking that I should have very little fluid in the cyl when changing inj's. I will be installing new glow plugs and will be able to bar it over, will that be enough to clear the cyl's?

Where do I find valve spring compressor? Do I have to build an adapter for the air hose when doing springs?

What is the best way to reseal the dipstick adapter when putting on the new oil pan? just OE good enough or is there better parts than OE? (I won't be putting on the strictly diesel piece since I have the oil pan off)