Someone confirm this as I am super tired and about to hit the sack so I'm a bit punchy right now
There are a few pitstops on the way to the fuel pump. The PCM controls the control wire to the fuel pump relay. After the relay it goes thru the inertia cut off switch( collision safety feature) then finally onto the fuel pump. The pump is on a switched ground relay setup. Also do you have a CEL light on? Not sure if you get a hard code tripping the light for the fuel pump or not. You are looking for trouble codes P0230 -2 IIRC. There is a monitor circuit on the fuel pump line that goes back to the PCM so if there is too much power or not enough or wrong time it will trip a code and may disable the pump circuit altogether ( I think on the last part). So checking for codes might be a good easy first step if you have access to a proper code reader.
Is the fuse blowing when you jump it or was it blown with the only the factory harness hooked up? I ask as I am confused. Earlier on you said all fuses look good then you jumper it. After that you stated blowing the fuse. I am not sure if you just missed it earlier or is this happening from still jumping from the battery directly to the pump? Regardless you almost never need the fuel bowl heater so just unplug it completely. Do not go with higher rated fuses. That in general is never a good thing on a stock harness setup.
If it is blowing the fuse with the stock harness hooked up only the most likley answer is the pump has failed. Sometimes when they fail they build up so much resistance they will blow the fuse. So if with the fuel heater unplugged and you make sure any of the exposed wires are not shorting on anything that 30 amp maxi fuse is blowing its most likely the pump itself.
Best place for getting the pumps I have found that no one seems to be able to touch the price is rockauto $79. (people had/have been selling their 10 yr old pumps for more LOL) Its part # 69136 here is the link to the page
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2233582
If you wish to further troubleshoot it before making the purchase here are some of the steps:
Have you pressed the rest button inertia cut off switch which you can do on the passenger side kick panel (right foot side). There should be a hole near the top of it and a small button. (That is unless you are blowing fuses with just stock wiring harness in place and no jumper etc..powering it.) Here are the instructions:
Probably easiest to work from the pump back to the PCM in testing for power.
You can pull that panel and probe the wires or terminals of the cut off swtich to see if you are getting power to and from it. I think the power lead is dark green and yellow going into the switch from the relay and pink and black coming out. If you are getting power in but not out then the switch is bad. I guess you could bypass the switch if you wanted to but its a safety feature in case of a collision.
If there is no power to it then it could be the relay itself which means replacing it. They put the fuel pump relay in a stupid location if I recall as its back under the cup holder on the dash left side. At least for me you have to pull the radio to get to it.
Rather than digging it out at first you could confirm you are getting power from the PCM. The connector to the PCM is engine side firewall drivers side. Its pin 94. Its a light blue wire with an orange tracer. Stick it with a probe with the key on ( 30 sec) and it should become a ground (you can test it off the battery neg post.) It believe it will be the passenger side of the connector when its plugged in 2 below the center bolt. That should get you in the area to find the right color. If that proves to much a PITA plugged in remove the PCM from inside the cab and plug it back in to the connector in the engine bay. Then you can easily find the pin/wire location.
Here is a diagram of the connector with it unplugged facing you:
One possible way if you want to test the entire ground circuit but the fuse keeps blowing and its a switched ground so not a completed circuit without the pcm flipping the relay on. Again I am tired as crap right now so I may not have this right on testing the ground circuit but here:
Unplug the connectors from the pump. Put in a new fuse and turn the key on. (You will only have 30 seconds before the PCM opens the relay connection again.) Have the multimeter resistance/ohm, one lead to the ground terminal in the connector and the other lead to the battery negative post. Should read infinity or 0 or under 1 ohm depending how you are testing it. I THINK that would work.
Thats about all my brain can spew out tonight again someone double check this to make sure I did not tell him to blow up his engine or something.
