No start, out of the blue...

Snake · Jul 6, 2012

Mike, have you tried leaving the top of the engine fuel filter off while someone cranks the truck? Wondering if fuel is at least getting to the bowl.

Mdub707 · Jul 6, 2012

Mike I can feel the fuel pump running, but haven't actually checked the filter housing yet. I would think if fuel pressure was low I would at least get some smoke and a weak fire of some sort

Mdub707 · Jul 6, 2012

Only got a couple minutes to do a scan... here's what I just scanned, check it out.... let me know what you guys think.

DEEZUZ · Jul 6, 2012

I dont remember which one, but I think its Main FICM Voltage is the one that needs to be 48v...

Mdub707 · Jul 6, 2012

Yep I have two ficms that both read 48 plus with a multi meter that's not it I don't think

Or rather the ficm itself is good, but maybe some sort of error feeding it? The injectors buzz very strong when I first turn the key.

I noticed I have a u1900 code, thoughts on that? My scanner isn't good enough to read it fully. I need to buy AE

DEEZUZ · Jul 6, 2012

According to those PIDS, your FICM is not firing up.. Maybe when a load gets put on it, it drops all. I understand it buzzes injectors, but when trying to fire up, it may be cutting out... you should have battery power at two of those pids, than the 48v at the 3rd one... Somethings not reading right...

Have you switched relays? The U1900 is most likely from switching FICMs, its a CAN code, meaning its not flashed to the truck, but it should still work, provided everything else does.

Mdub707 · Jul 6, 2012

That's along the lines i'm thinking. Buzzes great then try cranking and nothing. No sync would cause that too wouldn't it? That's basically what it sounds like, injectors not firing for sure. Oil seems good so it's gotta be electrical. Either a ficm relay or a cam/crank position sensor. I know it'll run without one one of them but the other would cause a no start right?

DEEZUZ · Jul 7, 2012

yea but, the cam n crank not being in sync is not going to cause a voltage issue... Check your fuses and relay for FICM

Mdub707 · Jul 7, 2012

I've checked every fuse on the truck. Where's the ficm relay located?

DEEZUZ · Jul 7, 2012

should be driver side, in junction box... maybe the bottom left one, grey.

Mdub707 · Jul 7, 2012

K I'll have to check it tomorrow, don't have the truck in front of me...

Thanks for the help so far.

Mdub707 · Jul 8, 2012

Ok, Just got back in to town where my truck is sitting, but it's dark already here. I checked the fuel pump shut off switch, no change. Out of curiosity I decided to test the FICM with a multi-meter to see what is going on. When you first turn the key, the injectors buzz good, but voltage immediately drops from 48 to 36ish, and keeps creeping down as the injectors buzz. As soon as they stop buzzing, the reading drops to 0.0! It stays at 0.0 even when cranking, but I know for a fact the FICM itself is good. I even tried swapping another good FICM I have here that I know is good and it does the same symptoms, though I didn't try reading that one with the multi-meter. I know all of the fuses on the truck are good, I'm thinking it's a relay under the hood possibly? I pulled them, nothing smelled burnt or anything...

Thoughts?

Snake · Jul 8, 2012

Relays are hard to test but not real expensive. Swap em out?

Mdub707 · Jul 8, 2012

Guess I'll have to swing by the dealer tomorrow. Not expensive but time consuming... Argggg

Snake · Jul 9, 2012

Probably goes without saying, but swap one relay out at a time then try to start it. You might get lucky.

Mdub707 · Jul 9, 2012

Well this seems like a typical project for me so far... pull the relay for the FICM, it's a 70amp unit. I get the P/N off of it: F80B-14B192-AA and do a google search, and look what comes up:

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/70-amp-relay-f80b-14b192-aa-found-t246542.html

Discontinued? Really? FML.

I'm not even sure this is the culprit here. Hopefully I can head to the junkyard after work and find a few relays.

Snake · Jul 9, 2012

Mike, pulled this from TDG (guy had same problem as you)

It took a third dealership parts manager to convert the engineering part number on the grey FICM relay F80B-14B192-AA to a Ford part number for those that ever have to change it. The number is: F8OZ-14N089-AA.

http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75656

Mdub707 · Jul 9, 2012

Nice! Thanks Mike!

I might still just go to the junkyard anyways, relays are probably $.50 a piece there, instead of $35 at the dealer, and I'd be willing to bet my dealer doesn't even have one in stock anyways. Plus a trip to the junkyard is always good for some fun haha.

Snake · Jul 9, 2012

Happy to help man. Now get that bish running! :evil

Mdub707 · Jul 9, 2012

Seriously, this is quite demoralizing. You remember I just paid it off last month right? This is my first month of actual ownership and this happens. Sounds about par for the course though.