pics of lpop - need advice

[ChunderDownUnder]

well its not the tube. Checked out OK. I have checked the ball, spring. (cap on top - then spring - then ball) I will have a closer look at the filter housing. The oil filter bypass you marked pushes up and then springs back.
I had my oil cooler off but I didnt mess with it

 

[golfer]

pressure test the LPOil system with air...

are the "freezeplugs" IN the lifter oil galleys at the back of the block (inside rear cover)? NPT plugs in the front of the block (behind front cover)?

sounds like you have a major, major leak in the LPOil system...or a whole lot of poor bearing clearances stacking up to cause a tremendous lack of volume in the LPOil loop.

front cover gasket(s) to block pinched?

the air test should lead you to the leak(s).

 

[ChunderDownUnder]

whats the procedure for the air test
On a side note cause Im trying to learn here. But if the gauge at the filter is only 4psi and the hpop aint filling wouldnt I be able to here something if it was and external leak of that size.

 

[ChunderDownUnder]

you got me second guessing my self now. Whats the chance of pulling of the rear cover and being able to slip it back on and maintaining my rear seal

 

[ChunderDownUnder]

oil bypass valve is like Tarm mentioned. Spring, plate, washer and clip. Moves freely pops back when pushed. The oil regulator is quiet stiff. I can push it down on the spring but its very notchy it can stick but seems to sitting in the up position. How do you get the sucker out

 

[TARM]

oil bypass valve is like Tarm mentioned. Spring, plate, washer and clip. Moves freely pops back when pushed. The oil regulator is quiet stiff. I can push it down on the spring but its very notchy it can stick but seems to sitting in the up position. How do you get the sucker out[/QUOTE

Brian,

Its a spring tension spool valve type deal.

To remove the valve you need to remove the oil cooler. Then you will see there is a snap ring holding it in place. Remove it and it will come out with needle nose or turn it over. Now on the older units I believe the units are staked in. These are the ones I have seen posts about them having issue. Sometimes falling out when the cooler is removed. Also as you mentioned it seems to be able to get stuck that seems to also happen and causes low LPOS pressure issues.

Here is some pics I found on the net and uploaded.

If this valve fails or gets stuck somewhere in between you will have no oil pressure registering on the gauge until you get into higher rpms with low injector demand if at all.. This is why I thought its was something to check. The spring could be

I have not done it on a 7.3 but you can shim the spring to allow for higher psi if you have enough volume of course. Same can be done with the oil filter bypass to prevent it from bypassing to a slightly higher pressure.

From the looks of it drill and tap a couple basic parts etc you could even make an adjustable setup. Then you could have adj pressure regulator for the LPOS./ At least it looks that way to me.

 

[TARM]

you got me second guessing my self now. Whats the chance of pulling of the rear cover and being able to slip it back on and maintaining my rear seal

I think you have to pull the seal.

 

[ChunderDownUnder]

Im going to pull the front cover and undo those npt galley plugs and run my camera up the galley to the rear. Im sure those two at the rear are the first plugs I put in. But like I said Im starting to doubt my self. All other galley plugs and freeze plugs are in place. Clearances have been checked, double checked and triple checked and are in spec. I have blow air through every orifice and there is oil in all the right places through the engine. Pick up tube is OK although its is closer to the bottom of the pan than most. I really think it is either the lpop is completely shot , which it doesnt look like and is within spec, or that bloody valve in the oil filter head is my issue. I have taken that snap ring off but the blighter wont budge

 

[TARM]

I think that is an older version and they actually peen that top piece in there. I do not believe you can get parts for that version anymore. If its what I am thinking of. You will have to purchase the newer filter head or it maybe the whole cooler I am not sure. Maybe someone that knows better can jump in. But I do know if that thing is sticking it can cause low pressure issue. A number of threads I did searches on had similar symptoms as you i.e. no oil pressure reading, stumbling injectors, very low LPO psi when taken from the block etc..

 

[ChunderDownUnder]

I will pull the one of my original motor . Can I put that filter head on the oil cooler I have or should I swap over the whole lot. I went to all that trouble to paint the bloody thing.
Just had another look and it got a c clip on top to hold it in so it must be able to come out

Got it. That internal piston does not slide easily. Gets stuck up and down the length of the travel . Spring still has plenty of tension. Outer sleeve has alot of scuffing on it. Will hit both with some 800grit and see if I can restore it.

 

[BigAlsPSD]

Hopefully you are getting somewhere Brian, and good information Tarm, stuff in the cooler I didn't even know about.

The one thing I can't seem to get out of my head though is how when you overfilled the crankcase you were able to run, albeit with low oil pressure, I guess it was just a least restrictive path for the oil to go through the short circuit device.

 

[TARM]

If the issue is not the pump then raising the level of oil might have done as you are saying. It also could have been that finally it got enough thru to get it going.

I just sure hope the issue is as simple as that valve and not something that require you to pull the rear cover.

I think I am going to start messing with shimming mine some time soon if my pressure is lower than I would like. Along with doing a dedicated oil pressure sensor at on the main gallery ports. Real block pressure and use the factory one as more way to know if the hpop res is full or not.

 

[ChunderDownUnder]

you guys have been messing with me head so Im going to pull the rear cover as well. Its the only area I havent checked.

 

[BigAlsPSD]

Not trying to mess with your head, man. I was just hoping you get this figured out...

 

[ChunderDownUnder]

Nah its all good Al. It was the Golfer who got me doubting myself but ya gotta luv him cause he picked it like a nose bruva

A picture tell a thousand words. And you can guess a few of em that i have been calling myself.

 

[BigAlsPSD]

I'm very glad you found it, I know it sucks that you had to pull the motor again, but that is determination by you my friend!

 

[ChunderDownUnder]

thanks m8. And thank you Tarm and a big thankyou to da Golfer. Now to see if i got that size freeze plug

 

[2000wa250]

Care to point out exactly what's missing and where for those of us that aren't fully versed in what it should look like?

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

[2000wa250]

Care to share with those of us not fully versed in what it should look like? Not really sure what's missing in the pic

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[BigAlsPSD]

Care to share with those of us not fully versed in what it should look like? Not really sure what's missing in the pic

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

There should be freeze plugs on the back of the oil galleys(if you look at the raised parts that is where oil flows, follow those and you'll see large holes in the "plumbing"), the gray rtv is where the rear cover mounts.