pics of lpop - need advice

[ChunderDownUnder]

here ya go

they are the ends to a oil galley that runs the length of the block to feed the lifters. They should be plugged at both ends. This is why I couldnt build oil pressure. I had to remove a brand new rear main seal to get to it . I take it that third one down the bottom right is a drain whole

 

[TARM]

That is correct. The two top ones are the lifter or tappet gallery plugs. Now make sure you put those in correctly. They are a specific depth and you need to use loctite. Take a look at that tech bulletin article I linked you to. It give you the exact specs as they had a issue with a certain run of 7.3 with them not being installed correctly. To deep on the left one I think and it will block off the "to turbo" oil passage to shallow on either and they will leak or actually pop out completely.

I guess cost and time would be a reason why they did not have these ports threaded.



Well that sucks. But glad you found it. Now back on with the cover and rear seal assembly.

 

[Tom S]

Do all those plugs need to be removed on a rebuild? There have been a variety of threads over time where those and freeze plugs became a problem later one.

 

[ChunderDownUnder]

generally the machine shop will remove them before the block takes a acid bath. That way all the internals are cleaned as well.
In my case it was a problem cause I forgot to put em in

 

[ChunderDownUnder]

what about that third hole - bottom right ???

 

[TARM]

Looks like a plug should be in that one but I can not recall from memory what it goes to.

 

[BigAlsPSD]

The hole in the lower right is for oil drain back to the pan. Just the 2 uppers have plugs.

 

[TARM]

Thanks AL I just was not sure. I had talked to him in PM on all this and that one I could not recall what was there. Glad you corrected it.

 

[Old OutLaw]

one thing Chunder, if that was MY bypass valve scratched up like that, I would find a new, or good used one, I would not put that one back in.

 

[ChunderDownUnder]

one thing Chunder, if that was MY bypass valve scratched up like that, I would find a new, or good used one, I would not put that one back in.

problem is I wont get one over here. I have cleaned it up with some 800grit
paper and it cleaned up real good. Nice and smooth operation now. If I have a issue I will know where to look. At least I dont have take the motor out for that.

 

[ChunderDownUnder]

Ok take 2, Oil pressure while cranking is 45psi. Duty cycle 60% but ICP stalls at 250 psi and wont go higher. 7 long cranks, starting to loose the batteries.

 

[Old OutLaw]

sounds like all you have is LPOP pressure....the high pressure circuit is tits up, either the ICP, the IPR, or the pump itself....

 

[TARM]

I assume you have done all the normal stuff like confirm the HPOP res and oil rails are full of oil? Before you start cranking and then checking after as well?

Next thing would be the HPOP shaft. I have seen one where the shaft would slip even though the gear was was turning. It would spin a bit but at much slower speed then the gear so very low psi.

IPR could be stuck open. Check or swap out.

If everything checks out you can dead head the HPOP and see if you get any pressure.

 

[BigAlsPSD]

I bet you'll get it Brian, but likely as stated a hung IPR.

 

[ChunderDownUnder]

hpop is full and reading 45psi while cranking so i have oil. Just swapped in my old ipr and its the same. I got over 500psi when I started it last go with no oil pressure ??
if it was a fuse , which one would I check

 

[BigAlsPSD]

I can't think of any fuse that would cause the ICP to stall at 250ish, have you tried unplugging the ICP to aid again?

 

[ChunderDownUnder]

just checked the hpop and it was full, then unplugged ICP and had another go. Pumped about 2 quarts of oil all over my shiny new engine. Forgot to put the hpop plug back in didnt I.. So I will pre deposed for the next hour or so cleaning the $hit up
Oh and unpluging the icp made no difference

 

[BigAlsPSD]

That sucks, I was really hoping just some good ole, extended cranking would get it there and that the ICP would at least make it quicker.

 

[ChunderDownUnder]

going to put in my original hpop while I charge the batts over night

 

[TARM]

You are real happy now aren't ya LOL LOL

OK so lets go thru all this:

You have plenty of LPOP oil pressure @ 45psi so LPOP is good: CHECK

Since the Oil psi sensor is in your hpop res that is full not to mention your last stunt of giving your new engine an oil bath proves plenty of oil is getting to the res LOL LOL So HPOP Res Full: Check

Unplugging ICP did nothing so not the ICP sensor: Check

Swapped out old IPR valve with a old one( It was proven to be good correct?) So IPR valve good: Check

If you are getting 250psi then I guess that means the oil rails are full or at least that one is.

The HPOP itself is it new a old stock one what.

What gets me is you had this thing started even with the galley plugs out. Now the only change I can think you made was to pull the back cover and install the 2 cam galley plugs. Everything else stayed the same no?

Since you had to mess with the engine harness what about the IPR connector maybe being bad or having a short in it?

Can a HPOP be damaged from not getting oil? Wondering if all the running with the oil plugs out could have hurt it? Someone else hopefully can answer that.

It has to be something that effects the oil rail volume or pressure. All I can come up with given the symptoms and what has been ruled out is a bad HPOP. The HPOP res it full there is no way out of the head oil rails other than thru the injectors. The IPR has been swapped. The ICP made no dif.

All I can see left is the either the connection to to the IPR or the HPOP itself.

Do you have another HPOP you can swap out to check it?