Possible cracked block?

Lt.Dan

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Well, i heard from him again today, totaled up, i owe him $1700 as it sits. But, he says he already has the shorter push rods... He can have the machine shop finish the valve job and have it back together for $2700...

Gonna be over $6k deep in it now...
 

97f350stroker

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Well, i heard from him again today, totaled up, i owe him $1700 as it sits. But, he says he already has the shorter push rods... He can have the machine shop finish the valve job and have it back together for $2700...

Gonna be over $6k deep in it now...

Is he offering a warranty?
 

Lt.Dan

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That is exactly what i asked him last night, I want to know if there will be one. Im already spending $1000 more than a reman long block from Ford.... We'll find out what he says today.
 

Lt.Dan

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I got the results, and i wouldn't bet on anything. Its actually a 1 year, unlimited mile warranty. I just told him to do it. If anything goes bad, im going to drive the truck through his office...
 

97f350stroker

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I got the results, and i wouldn't bet on anything. Its actually a 1 year, unlimited mile warranty. I just told him to do it. If anything goes bad, im going to drive the truck through his office...

Offering it is one thing standing behind it is another. Hope you don't have to find out where he stands on that matter.

Side note, did you happen to ask where he got shorter pushrods so quick? Just curious.
 

Lt.Dan

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Im curious on the pushrods too, ill have to ask, and ill report back to you.

As far as if he stands behind his warranty, I believe he will, even after everything that has happened, and what you guys might think about this guy, I have faith he will.

As far as get it in writing, I think it is still smart. Ill have him put it on my invoice before i pay anything.
 

TyCorr

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I got the results, and i wouldn't bet on anything. Its actually a 1 year, unlimited mile warranty. I just told him to do it. If anything goes bad, im going to drive the truck through his office...

And you should....hopefully you don't need it.
 

Lt.Dan

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Just a quick update, i've called him twice, no answer on how its going other than they got the heads back from the machine shop on the 23rd. Dunno when they're going to bolt the heads down and have me come pick it up. You would think they would want their $2700?

Itll be 7 months in a week since they picked up my motor.
 
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Lt.Dan

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Well after attempting a last call last night, he texted me right after saying he was out at dinner, but to answer my question (because he already knew what i was going to ask), he said he'll be delivering my motor to me on Friday. We'll see how it goes, and if so, ill be installing it this weekend!

I might need to buy a new downpipe because i couldn't get mine apart, the u-bolt clamp put a nice indention on the tube and it wouldn't come apart, after cutting it right at the indention it ended up making the bottom half too short i think. I might just weld on an extension piece to make sure its long enough...

Is there any way to install the motor with the exhaust manifolds, turbo, and downpipe already installed on the motor? Would make install a little easier i would think?
 

PsdPullerJr

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Maybe someone will chime in that's done more than I have, but you can have manifolds and up pipes on the motor but no turbo or downpipe. There's not enough room to get the motor back over the crossmember with the turbo on, can't get high enough to clear. Maybe an obs with a stock turbo would, I don't remember off hand pulling an obs motor but I know a super duty won't clear.
 

79jasper

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I doubt you could even do it on a obs with the collector on. Unless you lift the cab some.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

97f350stroker

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Obs motor will come out and go in with the stock turbo in place as long as the the rad support is removed. Never attempted with the radio support still in place. Now If you're going t4, install the the manifolds, turbo mounting plate, and up pipes
 

TyCorr

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I agree with him^

Ive pulled a motor out of a 97 and while the stock turbo msy have cleared we thought pulling the turbo was best. Which yielded no issues. Just like on a super duty.
 

Lt.Dan

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Alright guys, so i got the motor on Friday, just like he said, and I went straight to work, i got to put on the entire fuel system, exh. manifolds, bellowed up-pipes, collector, turbo and all.

Then on saturday i was determined to get the motor into the truck, and you guys were right, you cant get the motor into the engine bay with the turbo on, so i unbolt the top of the core support and just pulled it forward about 4". Which got me plenty of room to drop the motor straight in. Only took about 20 min to get the motor in there, line it up with the torque converter and get all the bell housing bolts starter. Then started getting the motor mounts bolted down, valve covers on, intake spyder, connect the fuel lines etc. Called it a day at like 7pm.

Then Today, Sunday, i got the radiator in, with all new hoses, the coolant bottle, filled it with coolant, filled it with oil, installed the battery and all the wiring harnesses, and installed the downpipe. While i was under the truck, i noticed a very small drip coming from the motor... Leaking coolant... Right from the oil cooler flange under the thermostat housing (which the shop replaced that entire assembly). Very very small leak, but still...

Then i went to go pull the hpop fill plug to prime the hpop, but the plug was torqued to 1,000,000 ft/lbs, so it just stripped the allen hole... So i said screw it, ill just let the motor prime the oiling system itself. So after about 20 min of cranking and waiting, I got frustrated that it was taking this long, so i pounded a T40 torx bit into the fill plug and got it unscrewed, to my surprise, it was full to the threads, touching the bottom of the plug. So i put it back on and kept attempting to crank it. Well after about another 5 min, it finally started to fire, and the motor sped up a bit, but it wouldn't start completely. It sounded like it was only running on 4 cylinders, knocking like crazy, and wouldn't actually run.

Now when i start to crank it, it cranks for about 10-12 seconds like nothing is happening, then it will speed up and sounds like its misfiring, knocking etc, then after about 20 seconds of cranking total, it would start to slow down as the batteries and the battery charger couldn't keep up. Then after about 45 min in total of cranking and waiting, the starter relay burnt out! Turn the key, and the dash would light up, glow plugs kick on, but no start. Then jump the terminals on the relay, and it would turn right over.

After that I was livid enough to call it a night, i cleaned up and closed up shop... Any ideas what the problem might be with this no start issue? Or should i start a new thread for this? Im going to order a starter relay tonight, and once its running take it back to the shop to have them fix the coolant leak.

Pics:

When it showed up:
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Friday night, ready to go in the truck
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And today, after i called it quits
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rusty1161

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Double and triple check your electrical connections. IPR, ICP, CPS, PCM, IDM, injector harnesses under the valve covers, too.

Rusty
 

Lt.Dan

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Double and triple check your electrical connections. IPR, ICP, CPS, PCM, IDM, injector harnesses under the valve covers, too.

Rusty
Ive done everything except under the valve cover, which i really dont want to do... but ill have to.
You got fuel pressure?

Yes, i hear the electric fuel pump kick on, and when i hit the schrader valve fuel shoots out of it. Havent checked actual pressure but im positive its got plenty.

Forgot to mention too, it does have a very faint white smoke come from the exhaust, but not much at all. I remember when my GPR went out and tried to start it in the morning there was a good bit of smoke. Today I could barely see it, but it was there. Which leads me to believe that some injectors arent firing.
 

Lt.Dan

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I got it running! It was bad fuel, it totally slipped my mind that the truck had sat for a year and a half, in the rain and all the weather. I drained the front tank, filed up with a fresh 5 gallons, and she started within the first 5 seconds! Almost no smoke unless you revved it a bit, idle is smooth and everything looks good! Going to put the rest of it together tonight!

Thank you everyone for your help and advice through this long, drawn out rebuild!
 

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