Powerstroke214's build thread

sootie · Nov 17, 2015

yore missing half the gauge

Powerstroke214 · Nov 17, 2015

sootie said:
yore missing half the gauge

Yea, it's floating around somewhere in the oil pan…

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swinky · Nov 17, 2015

Any contribution codes?

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Powerstroke214 · Nov 17, 2015

Nope, just an IAT code that I need to fix. Damnit.

I wanted to buy some 16" welds tomorrow. This isn't helping with that.

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Powerstroke214 · Nov 20, 2015

Was gonna buy some welds and upgrade to a stg 2 Barder. Until the trans went boom, quite literally. Thinking it took out the converter, hopefully that's it.

Thousands of dollars put into it and I've driven it maybe 4 months this year. Sounds about right lol

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cbf9703 · Nov 21, 2015

Powerstroke214 said:
Was gonna buy some welds and upgrade to a stg 2 Barder. Until the trans went boom, quite literally. Thinking it took out the converter, hopefully that's it.

Thousands of dollars put into it and I've driven it maybe 4 months this year. Sounds about right lol

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Gotta pay to play... Seriously though, many of us can relate. Hope you get it all sorted out and back on the road soon.

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Powerstroke214 · Nov 26, 2015

So I think I'm gonna put a new stock converter in it…

Should know by Monday what's up at the latest.

All HELPFUL(looking at the ginger) opinions welcome.

I'm hearing that a DPC converter would eat up stock clutches, so stock it is until the end of summer when hopefully I can put in something with an upgraded converter, upgraded clutches and a billet input.

I have a few big names in mind.

Local shop supposedly does good work, but for the pricing I've heard, I'd rather go to a big name(Twisted/Rudy's etc) trans.

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dsberman94 · Nov 26, 2015

So you're going to just put a converter in it and not do anything else after this converter just sent tons of crap through the rest of the trans, or you are actually getting it rebuilt with new clutches and stuff?

Powerstroke214 · Nov 26, 2015

I'm not doing clutches, I don't think. I'm still undecided.

I don't want to spend the money to put upgraded clutches and everything else in, and having a mediocre trans builder put it together. That's my issue. A new stock converter lists for $4something and I can get it for a little less. Rather not spend thousands on upgraded parts to have someone not put it together correctly.

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dsberman94 · Nov 26, 2015

Before you don't replace anything else, just realize that if it is actually the converter, it sent all the material from inside it from what went wrong through everything else.

I had the front seal blow out of the trans, I could've just replaced that and called it good but why take the chance of having to pull it again and just have fresh clutched put in. I paid $300 for the clutches and the front seal. And the guy is a master tech and knows what he is doing. We've used him at least a dozen times for anything from a cavalier to a trailblazer to a mustang to a few 7.3 superdutys and other trucks that tow a lot. Never had an issue caused by normal driving. I'm the only one that has and I caused it by sled pulling. He builds a lot of tranny's for track or dirt racers and doesn't have issues with them either. To me it would be worth the new clutches and the tear down because you know that stuff is original and is going to be pretty worn. Plus it sucks pulling the trans more than you have to if that's not the issue.

Powerstroke214 · Nov 26, 2015

Raybestos clutches are $900
DPC converter is 1300
Billet input is $250

It's one thing to "risk" $300 but $2400 between those parts is a tougher pill to swallow. That and all the other parts needed.

There's a local guy that's supposedly really good, but he's expensive. How expensive, I don't know. So that's a huge factor. That and the quality of his work.

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dsberman94 · Nov 26, 2015

So put stock clutches and a stock converter back in it. I never said it had to be upgraded but it's worth the extra insurance to change the clutches even with factory. Most of what's in it now is probably burned to chit. At Least mine were at 160k miles.

Powerstroke214 · Nov 26, 2015

My issue is I need a trans that will hold 600hp "reliably"

Yea, someone built a trans that's holding 300-400hp in a truck that's driven normally. That's fine. Mine is around 500hp and gets beat on a little. I was going to go to a bigger turbo next, as well. So in other words, I don't want to spend too much on this trans just to pull it and put another in.

It hasn't been pulled apart yet. So I don't know what exactly is wrong. Obviously it's not gonna be cheap, but again, don't want to put a lot of money into it as a temp fix.

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sootie · Nov 26, 2015

do it right, once.

Emery19 · Nov 26, 2015

dont you work at a truck dealer? any chance he has a stock trans laying around you can throw in the truck and then build the one thats in it now?

dsberman94 · Nov 26, 2015

I'm all for doing it the right way the first time, but there's no sense in taking out a loan for a built trans. If you do what I said I wouldn't be at all afraid to use the local guy for a stock rebuild or even a Dual disc tc or something like that. It's not a 1000hp pull truck so I don't feel like you'd have an issue with stock clutches and a dual disc for quite a while. You've got good trans tuning so that's not going to be an issue like it was in the beginning of this diesel mod game. Besides that it's lasted this long so why wouldn't a fresh one last at least this long if not quite a bit longer.

And if your plan is to go to a bigger charger, I'm sure more than just me would recommend you put that money towards a built trans so you've got a drivetrain more suited to a high power motor. I know it doesn't actually make it go faster like a charger would but it's a supporting mod just like a fuel system and hpo.

dsberman94 · Nov 26, 2015

Emery19 said:
dont you work at a truck dealer? any chance he has a stock trans laying around you can throw in the truck and then build the one thats in it now?

His boss usually just lets him drive a truck off the lot. So I don't think this is his most economical option. Haha.

swinky · Nov 26, 2015

dsberman94 said:
So put stock clutches and a stock converter back in it. I never said it had to be upgraded but it's worth the extra insurance to change the clutches even with factory. Most of what's in it now is probably burned to chit. At Least mine were at 160k miles.

Stfu you idiot. Stock clutches, like for real.

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swinky · Nov 26, 2015

dsberman94 said:
I'm all for doing it the right way the first time, but there's no sense in taking out a loan for a built trans. If you do what I said I wouldn't be at all afraid to use the local guy for a stock rebuild or even a Dual disc tc or something like that. It's not a 1000hp pull truck so I don't feel like you'd have an issue with stock clutches and a dual disc for quite a while. You've got good trans tuning so that's not going to be an issue like it was in the beginning of this diesel mod game. Besides that it's lasted this long so why wouldn't a fresh one last at least this long if not quite a bit longer.

And if your plan is to go to a bigger charger, I'm sure more than just me would recommend you put that money towards a built trans so you've got a drivetrain more suited to a high power motor. I know it doesn't actually make it go faster like a charger would but it's a supporting mod just like a fuel system and hpo.

I really wish you would just try to not sound so ***king retarded every once in a while.

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dsberman94 · Nov 26, 2015

So give us your infinite wisdom all mighty 6.0 god. Your last 2 posts in here have been so helpful to the situation at hand.

From what it sounded like he wasn't even planning on looking into it further than just a converter. He also on a budget since it just came back from a massive, for a college student, amount of $$ being dumped into it. And if he can't afford a build right now, i.e. DPC converter, billet shafts, raybestos clutches, then using your train of thought, it seems he should reinstall the factory, work out, clutch discs and just replace the bad one. At least I'm throwing him an idea.