Radically Redesigned Wicked Wheel® makes 43 PSI on my STOCK turbo!

under pressure

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Not for sale yet...... You can however pay up to be a tester.
Sent from the left lane with the hammer down...

Ok, whose doing this, id like to see what the parameters and cost is to be a tester.
PM me.

I have full access to a new dyno jet that we have played with a couple times with the current set up less the w/m.
 

Bobby@cp

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Ok, whose doing this, id like to see what the parameters and cost is to be a tester.
PM me.

I have full access to a new dyno jet that we have played with a couple times with the current set up less the w/m.

Contact dieselsite.

Sent from the left lane with the hammer down...
 

firehunter

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First off, on the 100 HP tune we picked up a solid 20 HP with no other changes! On the 140 HP tune, we picked up a peak of 12 HP and almost 20 HP above 2500 RPM. However, this is nothing compared to the fact that the boost output jump from about 30-31 PSI at 3400 RPM to 43 PSI!!

Nice write up!

Serious question here, just intuitively with no evidence whatsoever to base anything on, it seems like the HP increase should have been much more than 20HP with a corresponding boost increase of 12 psi? From reading you previous threads on your test mule you were right at the 400HP mark with this truck. Using that number, you experienced a 5% increase in HP from a 28% increase in boost? Does that sound right?

Second question, I would like to see some results from real world applications such as is there any measurable boost increase while cruising empty, highway cruising while towing, and pulling loads up grades. Since my truck will never see a dyno I would be more interested in these results.

:toast:
 

Wildjon

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Bill,

I'm only 30 minutes from you if you wanna give the wheel a dyno go on a stock injector truck.
 

Petro

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After seeing what can be done with modified turbos on the 6.0L by Mad Turbo, Im glad someone Finally stepped up and looked into 7.3 Turbos again. Like was stated above great improvement for a "Dead Platform" and just in time to since I happened to just get back into the 7.3 game. Great Work Guys, Ill be in to pick one up when they come out.
 

Strictly Diesel

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Serious question here, just intuitively with no evidence whatsoever to base anything on, it seems like the HP increase should have been much more than 20HP with a corresponding boost increase of 12 psi? From reading you previous threads on your test mule you were right at the 400HP mark with this truck. Using that number, you experienced a 5% increase in HP from a 28% increase in boost? Does that sound right?
Short answer, it doesn't work that way. If it only made 20hp more, that's all the power that was left on the table from the use of the stock turbocharger. The gains are probably a combination of a bit more air to finish using whatever fuel might have been left over and the benefits of improved boost:backpressure ratio.

Of course, this may open up the window for more usable fuel, if the tuning and injectors are not already maxed out.

It's all together possible that it would have picked up the same 20hp at a lower boost level, which would yield less stress on the turbo (stock thrust bearing wasn't designed for that much boost), even less actual backpressure and less heat from the compressor. If this compressor is this efficient, it would be interesting to see what the "before" MAT was, what the "after" MAT was, and then turn the boost pressure down via wastegate adjustment to find where the power drops and test again to see what the the new boost, backpressure and MAT figures (which would require testing with a stock turbo again). If it were mine, I'd try to run it at the lowest boost pressure possible to make the power rather than shoot for the highest boost number with no regard for backpressure and temps.

Second question, I would like to see some results from real world applications such as is there any measurable boost increase while cruising empty, highway cruising while towing, and pulling loads up grades. Since my truck will never see a dyno I would be more interested in these results.
That said, I will try to capture some of this when I test the 38R version. Bob and I have been talking about this for a while now, just waiting to get one to test. I don't have a dyno to use, but I do have a 25 mile commute with sections of highway driving that are never interrupted (next to no traffic). I will do before and after logging of the exact same drive (log start/stop locations), at various speeds (cruise control managed) and various loads (with and without trailer). I've got no problem making my 38R surge with my 200/200s, so we can test that too.

Hey Bill...if you're going to do another test, put one of Bobs easily adjustable wastegate actuators on the stock turbo first. It would be interesting to find the peak HP boost/backpressure/MAT number with the stock combination and then do the compressor wheel switch. See what that same wastegate configuration yields with the new wheel (more boost with no other changes like the first test you did hopefully), then adjust up and down with the new wheel to document the BP/MAT at the same boost as the "stock" turbo as well as the boost/BP/MAT of the peak hp adjustment (the point where power stops increasing). Hopefully that made sense...
 

Lowdown89

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Short answer, it doesn't work that way. If it only made 20hp more, that's all the power that was left on the table from the use of the stock turbocharger. The gains are probably a combination of a bit more air to finish using whatever fuel might have been left over and the benefits of improved boost:backpressure ratio.

Of course, this may open up the window for more usable fuel, if the tuning and injectors are not already maxed out.

It's all together possible that it would have picked up the same 20hp at a lower boost level, which would yield less stress on the turbo (stock thrust bearing wasn't designed for that much boost), even less actual backpressure and less heat from the compressor. If this compressor is this efficient, it would be interesting to see what the "before" MAT was, what the "after" MAT was, and then turn the boost pressure down via wastegate adjustment to find where the power drops and test again to see what the the new boost, backpressure and MAT figures (which would require testing with a stock turbo again). If it were mine, I'd try to run it at the lowest boost pressure possible to make the power rather than shoot for the highest boost number with no regard for backpressure and temps.


That said, I will try to capture some of this when I test the 38R version. Bob and I have been talking about this for a while now, just waiting to get one to test. I don't have a dyno to use, but I do have a 25 mile commute with sections of highway driving that are never interrupted (next to no traffic). I will do before and after logging of the exact same drive (log start/stop locations), at various speeds (cruise control managed) and various loads (with and without trailer). I've got no problem making my 38R surge with my 200/200s, so we can test that too.

Hey Bill...if you're going to do another test, put one of Bobs easily adjustable wastegate actuators on the stock turbo first. It would be interesting to find the peak HP boost/backpressure/MAT number with the stock combination and then do the compressor wheel switch. See what that same wastegate configuration yields with the new wheel (more boost with no other changes like the first test you did hopefully), then adjust up and down with the new wheel to document the BP/MAT at the same boost as the "stock" turbo as well as the boost/BP/MAT of the peak hp adjustment (the point where power stops increasing). Hopefully that made sense...

I have one of the wastegate controllers on my 38r that bill can try on his stock turbo if he wants, also like you said when bill gets the 38r version on my truck I was thinking since people wanted to see some real world Info he can hook his trailer up with his truck on it to my truck and drag it up and down the interstate some and around town
 
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Power Hungry

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What is the timeline on the 38r wheel and testing?

I got the wheel installed and tested with the STOCK 38R ported housing. I'm pounding through that data now. I still need to test the DieselSite modified housing to see if it offers any improvement with the new wheel. All those results will be posted in a separate thread dedicated to the 38R sometime in the next 24 hours.

Nice write up!

Serious question here, just intuitively with no evidence whatsoever to base anything on, it seems like the HP increase should have been much more than 20HP with a corresponding boost increase of 12 psi? From reading you previous threads on your test mule you were right at the 400HP mark with this truck. Using that number, you experienced a 5% increase in HP from a 28% increase in boost? Does that sound right?

Second question, I would like to see some results from real world applications such as is there any measurable boost increase while cruising empty, highway cruising while towing, and pulling loads up grades. Since my truck will never see a dyno I would be more interested in these results.

Question 1: Just to clarify, the 399 HP I achieved was with a particularly aggressive timing curve on a 40º day. This is NOT the setup I run day to day. I'm currently running about 6º lower timing because I don't feel like replacing the head gaskets or the rods & block just yet. ;) With that said, additional air is only going to be of use if you have excess, unburned fuel. In the case of my truck, I was already running pretty clean so I only picked up about 20 HP with the additional air. Plus, we have to take into account that there may have been some thermal losses (or maybe gains?) related to the heating of the air as it was compressed an extra 10+ PSI. There is still a large amount of data to go through and I have some loaded cruise testing I still want to complete to get a better idea of how the truck responds under normal driving conditions, not just at WOT. Results will be forthcoming as the tests are completed.

Question 2: I'm setting up a battery of tests on the dyno to simulate different load conditions, grades, and other stuff. I'm also planning on running at different performance levels on the chip to simulate an otherwise stock condition. The results should be quite interesting.

Bill,

I'm only 30 minutes from you if you wanna give the wheel a dyno go on a stock injector truck.

That would be fine. Just get with Bob to purchase the wheel. If you want, we can dyno the truck to get stock numbers and then after you install the wheel we can run the truck again to get the new numbers. If you want us to install the wheel for you, it would be $125.00. We'll cover the dyno costs. Let me know how you'd like to proceed.

I have one of the wastegate controllers on my 38r that bill can try on his stock turbo if he wants, also like you said when bill gets the 38r version on my truck I was thinking since people wanted to see some real world Info he can hook his trailer up with his truck on it to my truck and drag it up and down the interstate some and around town

Jason, you're gonna love this new setup. :D
 

ToMang07

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Bill...Not sure how desperate you are for a stock truck to try the wheel on... BUT.... I'll be coming through GA on Dec 27/28th-ish, (Headed to FL) and back on Jan 2nd/3rd-ish...if you have any more of those wheels to test I'd be more than willing to schedule with you a time to stop by so you can run her. I'm essentially all stock with a 4" Exhaust and DIY Intake. (Mods in sig) :lookaround:

Just trying to be helpful... :angel:
 
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Bill, maybe I'm blind or something, but by what I'm seeing, you posted a completely different wheel when the link to the ebay wheel was posted. I'm not trying to start anything and I'm not even the slightest bit interested in this wheel, I'm just wondering if that was a mistake? Or does Bob have two different wheels? If he doesn't have two different wheels, which wheel is in your truck? Here is what you posted as the WWG2 in the original post..

wwg2_side_sm.jpg


Then here is the comparison to the ebay wheel that you posted in post #63.

eBayWheelvsWWG238R.jpg


This is the picture I just got from the ebay auction, so the ebay pic is on the left in your comparison. The wheel on the right in your comparison is different than the picture in your original post.

T2eC16hHJHgE9n0yHG0QBQwS6Rz5-g60_57.jpg


Am I missing something? LOL Like I said, I'm not trying to start anything or even interested in buying either one of these wheels, I'm just a little confused by the pictures that have been posted. Maybe the ebay seller changed the pics of his wheel or maybe you just got the pic mixed up with a 38R wheel when you compared the two. I don't know, just wondering.
 
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Dzlsmok

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Has anyone ever tested the stock compressor wheel, like a 2000 model year, VS. the cast wicked wheel in this same manor?

Or another good test would be the Wicked Wheel I VS. Wicked Wheel II ?
 

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